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Old 07/23/2013, 06:19 AM   #1
pascal32
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adding drinking water to RODI

Hi there. Currently I am using a 6 stage (3 primary, RO, and two DI) for my aquarium. The system has a pressure pump with a shutoff sensor located after the last DI. There is a shutoff vale in the RO system and an RO tap already installed.

We just moved to a house with a well, and would like to cut back on bottled water.

To add a drinking water faucet do i run off the RO tap (in between first four stages and DI), put a one way valve in, T in a pressure tank, run through another carbon filter and to the faucet?

where should I put the pump shutoff? I believe after the DI should work as the system will pressurize - is that correct?

what carbon filter to you recommend for the drinking water?

thanks!




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Old 07/23/2013, 07:17 AM   #2
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As you've shown int in your sketch will work OK. Some things to consider:
*Move the pump after the three prefilters and put a strainer between the last prefilter and the pump.
*Get rid of the ASOV and instead use a shut off solenoid.
*With well water there is no need for two carbon stages, but 2 sediment filters might be helpful.
*An inline taste and odor filter will work fine between your pressure tank and your faucet:
BFS-402 Inline Taste and Odor Filter with Fittings
* You'll need some sort of shut off valve (float valve?) at the end of your DI "out" tube.
* Make sure you're using a (liquid-filled) pressure gauge so you can read the pump output pressure.

Russ


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Old 07/23/2013, 07:19 AM   #3
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If you want to mount the inline taste and odor filter to the top of the RO membrane housing, use 2 of these:
BFS-239 Piggyback clip 2.5 inch x 2 inch

If you want to mount it otherwise, use:
BFS-5123 Housing clip, 2 inch

Russ


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Old 07/24/2013, 06:39 PM   #4
pascal32
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thank you! couple questions:

*Get rid of the ASOV and instead use a shut off solenoid.
--> which configuration and part numbers do you recommend? I have an aquatec 8800 booster pump with a shutoff pressure switch on it.

*With well water there is no need for two carbon stages, but 2 sediment filters might be helpful.
--> which filter combination for the prefilters do you recommend (with part numbers)

*An inline taste and odor filter will work fine between your pressure tank and your faucet:
BFS-402 Inline Taste and Odor Filter with Fittings
--> is there a regular filter that is equivalent? I have an extra housing with 1/4" fittings

* You'll need some sort of shut off valve (float valve?) at the end of your DI "out" tube.
--> yes, i have a float valve, though I have most of the parts to go with a solonoid cutoff with a float as backup


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Old 07/24/2013, 07:09 PM   #5
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How many gpd is your membrane rated for?


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Old 07/24/2013, 08:28 PM   #6
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75gpd


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Old 07/25/2013, 04:00 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blurry View Post
*Get rid of the ASOV and instead use a shut off solenoid.
--> which configuration and part numbers do you recommend? I have an aquatec 8800 booster pump with a shutoff pressure switch on it.
With a 75 gpd membrane, go with:
BFS-5172 Shut Off Solenoid Valve, 1/4 Inch, 24VAC; and
BFS-5012 Wiring Harness Pigtail [this will allow you to plug the solenoid into the wiring harness for your booster pump]

Quote:
*With well water there is no need for two carbon stages, but 2 sediment filters might be helpful.
--> which filter combination for the prefilters do you recommend (with part numbers)
BFS-275 Sediment Filter, 10 x 2.5, 5 Mic., 2-Pack; followed by
BFS-240 Sediment Filter, 10 x 2.5, 1 Mic., 2-Pack; followed by
BFS-113 Carbon block - The Workman, 10 x 2.5 inch

Quote:
*An inline taste and odor filter will work fine between your pressure tank and your faucet:
BFS-402 Inline Taste and Odor Filter with Fittings
--> is there a regular filter that is equivalent? I have an extra housing with 1/4" fittings
BFS-113 Carbon block - The Workman, 10 x 2.5 inch; or
BFS-244 GAC cartridge. [Note this is a refillable catrtridge, and although more expensive than the block to purchase originally, approximately two refills will cost you only $8.99: BFS-196 GAC, bulk - 32 oz.]

Russ


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Old 07/25/2013, 06:33 AM   #8
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thanks. placed a nice size order


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Old 07/25/2013, 07:41 AM   #9
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Got it! I noticed you didn't order a valve for the top of the tank. Do you already have one?



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Old 07/25/2013, 08:45 AM   #10
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didn't realize I needed one, you send me the part number and I will order on, or invoice me on paypal, you have my address


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Old 07/25/2013, 10:20 AM   #11
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Can we get you to order right on this page?
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/sh...ry=189&Sub=133

We'll refund the shipping and stick it in your other package.

Russ


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Old 07/25/2013, 04:15 PM   #12
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all set, order placed


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Old 07/27/2013, 12:02 AM   #13
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BFS guys are great to deal with


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Old 08/03/2013, 06:11 AM   #14
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Installing today - what is the recommended tank pressure for the 14 gallon tank? fill while empty?


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Old 08/03/2013, 06:33 AM   #15
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It will come precharged. 5 to 8 psi


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Old 08/03/2013, 07:40 AM   #16
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thanks


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Old 08/03/2013, 10:11 PM   #17
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I'm thinking a one way 1/4" to both the RO only line (leads to tank) and the DI line (goes to mixing station for the tank) after the membrane.

does that seem reasonable?


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Old 08/04/2013, 03:03 AM   #18
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Your system should already have a check valve on the RO permeate (RO water) tube before it tees off. No?


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Old 08/04/2013, 06:48 AM   #19
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No check valve there - goes from the RO membrane out through the ASOV to a splitter (A) RO only (B) to DI canisters - no check valves.

since no-one in town seems to have check valves, do you have the auto-flush from aquatec also? didn't see it on your site


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Old 08/04/2013, 08:23 AM   #20
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If you have a working ASOV, then you have a check valve. Is probably built into the elbow fitting in the RO Membrane housing permeate port.

36 thru 100 gpd auto flush flow restrictors are on this page:
http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/sh...ry=197&Sub=109

If you'd rather team up the auto flush function with a capillary restrictor, we have one like that for the same price.

Russ


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Old 08/04/2013, 11:17 AM   #21
pascal32
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shouldn't both lines (to pressure tank and to DI canisters) have check valves? otherwise if the RO tap is being used and the pressure pump turns on water could get pushed backwards through the DI and into the RO tank line?


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Old 08/04/2013, 11:47 AM   #22
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Send us your email address if you'd like a plumbing diagram. You want to make sure the RO water from the tank can't come back to the DI.



Last edited by Buckeye Hydro; 08/04/2013 at 11:59 AM.
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