Reef Central Online Community
Blue Zoo Aquatics

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 03/25/2014, 07:21 PM   #1
Killerz6
Registered Member
 
Killerz6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 35
DIY Nitrate Reactor for $40?

I saw this link online while I was browsing through fish tank topics. I am starting a 100 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump and wanted to know if this would be of any use to me? Any input/modifications/knowledge on this would be awesome.

Here is the link

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/s...d.php?t=387870

Let me know what you think! I would be very interested in making one of these if it will help my new tank when I start adding salt and LR!


Killerz6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/25/2014, 07:30 PM   #2
Killerz6
Registered Member
 
Killerz6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 35
Let me know!


Killerz6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/25/2014, 07:53 PM   #3
zachts
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 3,266
interesting, here's another one floating around.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...8#post22589258


zachts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/25/2014, 09:17 PM   #4
uncleof6
Registered Member
 
uncleof6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,012
5 gallon home depot bucket, and 60lbs of silica sand. (aragonite oolitic is a better option, but costs more) Instant nitrate reactor, that will work far better and naturally, than any purpose "nitrate reactor," whether it uses a denitrating media, sugar, spice, sulfur whatever. Maintenance free and no media replacement necessary. Phosphates? Control your nitrates right, and no need to worry about phosphates.You only need control one of the several necessities for nuisance algae growth, to halt it dead in its tracks. Cyanobacteria, being the exception in that it can grow with next to nothing.


__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor)

Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef
uncleof6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/25/2014, 09:51 PM   #5
zachts
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 3,266
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
5 gallon home depot bucket, and 60lbs of silica sand. (aragonite oolitic is a better option, but costs more) Instant nitrate reactor, that will work far better and naturally, than any purpose "nitrate reactor," whether it uses a denitrating media, sugar, spice, sulfur whatever. Maintenance free and no media replacement necessary. Phosphates? Control your nitrates right, and no need to worry about phosphates.You only need control one of the several necessities for nuisance algae growth, to halt it dead in its tracks. Cyanobacteria, being the exception in that it can grow with next to nothing.
Very true and beneficial in more ways than just nitrate reduction. If space is available this method also fosters many other forms of microfana not just denitrifying bacteria and makes periodic cleaning a breeze. "Remote deep sand beds are great, no question.

When space is limited the coil type reactors have been very effective, though singly aimed at only growing bacteria for de-nitrification. I've not gone thru the whole thread originally posted by the Op but the setups shown on the first few pages don't look to be terribly effective in the long run or for systems that are very big.

Depending on system size limiting phosphorous via GFO reactor is also effective, especially when buying the GFO in bulk.

Ultimately you want to balance nitrate and phosphate removal to maintaining low levels of each.
In moderately stocked tanks where coral is the focus supplemental nitrate and phosphate removal really shouldn't be needed.

On my systems (relatively small, only 65 gallons or so, I use GFO to limit phosphate combined with macro algea growth to keep low total levels in the water. nuance algea indicates too much of both, but you can easily have an abundance of algea and still have zero detectable levels of each nutrient. That condition simply indicates that the nutrients are being utilized at the rate they are produced. Add enough herbivores to the tank and you can balance the input and export of these nutrients more naturally.

I feed my tanks sparingly only enough to supplement fish's diet for what they are not able to hunt/forage in the tank. My tanks are coral oriented though, and fish oriented tanks need to augment the nutrient removal in some manner.


zachts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/26/2014, 07:37 AM   #6
perkint
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Robin hood country, UK
Posts: 786
If you just want a reactor cheap, you could buy a standalone DI pod for not much more than the DIY water bottle solution and less worry about it holding water or the components being reef safe

Tim


perkint is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/26/2014, 09:40 PM   #7
mrx66699
Registered Member
 
mrx66699's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: ft. laud
Posts: 5,993
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2381987


__________________
Nano with a few dozen tangs.

Life is the slowest form of suicide!
mrx66699 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/27/2014, 01:23 AM   #8
mikespeed6
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Rohnert Park,CA
Posts: 11
These still require media to be changed I prefer the injection style myself. I run a Aquaripure system on a 240g reef w/ deep sand bed and always no matter what had a nitrate issue. When I added the remover once it cycled I only had to deal with the green hair one more time and after that it never came back. Before it was 10-15hrs a month on top of reg maint. Simply inject 5-10mL of cheap vodka every 7-10 days and that's it!


mikespeed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/27/2014, 01:44 AM   #9
mikespeed6
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Rohnert Park,CA
Posts: 11
I wont own another tank without one



Last edited by mikespeed6; 03/27/2014 at 01:50 AM.
mikespeed6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03/27/2014, 09:36 AM   #10
uncleof6
Registered Member
 
uncleof6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: AWOL
Posts: 12,012
Removed. See your PM box. BrianD


__________________
"Things should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler." (oft attributed to Einstein; most likely paraphrasing by Roger Sessions; compactly articulates the principle of Occam's Razor)

Current Tank Info: 325 6' wide Reef

Last edited by BrianD; 04/02/2014 at 04:26 PM.
uncleof6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04/05/2014, 11:54 PM   #11
Crooked Reef
Registered Member
 
Crooked Reef's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,500
I actually made one from the first link about three weeks ago. Supposedly the seachem denitrate works like live rock and needs very low flow, under 50gph, to form an anearobic zone inside of it. It is basically just very porous gravel. It should theoretically never need replacing itself if you have a sponge in the first part of the reactor that you can remove to clean.


__________________
“In wine there is wisdom; in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria.” - Benjamin Franklin

Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank.
Crooked Reef is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02/07/2018, 12:12 PM   #12
JordanM
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 22
I am looking at making a de-nitrator that will be relevant for both fresh and salt water. It will be for a 54 gallon tank. From what i have read you should coil 50ft of 1/4" tubing on the inside of the reactor so the water coming into the bottom of the reactor is anaerobic. I am using water filters like the one in the picture below and 50ft of 1/4" tubing will not fit inside of it so,
1. Is there a reason that the 1/4" tubing needs to be inside the reactor? (to maintain temperature for the bacteria?), or can the coil be located outside of the reactor?
2. How long of coil should i use? It seems like the consensus is 50 ft, but can you ever de-oxygenate the water to much by having to long of coil?

My plan is to make one like below that will have three filters. The first will just contain a filter to filter any debris out of the water that can easily be cleaned and dumped out if it gets plugged. In between the first and second container i was going to put the 50ft 1/4" coil and then enter the bottom of the second container that will be filled with Bioballs and the third container i was thinking about putting in the Seachem De-Nitrate Filter Media. Of course any of these containers could be switched to sulfur at anytime. I would like to use this for freshwater right now but i will be changing this tank to saltwater eventually.

Please let me know your thoughts.


Attached Images
File Type: jpg denitrifier_system.jpg (59.4 KB, 22 views)
JordanM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/07/2018, 04:14 PM   #13
bblumberg
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Irvine, CA
Posts: 463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Killerz6 View Post
I saw this link online while I was browsing through fish tank topics. I am starting a 100 gallon tank with a 55 gallon sump and wanted to know if this would be of any use to me? Any input/modifications/knowledge on this would be awesome.

Here is the link

http://www.ultimatereef.net/forums/s...d.php?t=387870

Let me know what you think! I would be very interested in making one of these if it will help my new tank when I start adding salt and LR!
If you Google "Poor man nutrients control - Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer", you will find an extensive discussion of an inexpensive DIY denitrator on another forum.


__________________
Bruce

Current Tank Info: 150G mixed reef (6x Blue Acro 20K Pro COB LEDs, 4x 80W T5 supplement), 75G corner mixed reef (DIY LED), 90G fw Angelfish (CF lighting), 150G FW discus (4x 54W T5), 125G FW Discus (CF).
bblumberg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/07/2018, 05:15 PM   #14
JordanM
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 22
Thank you for the site. It seems that there is not much to the design of these and they seem pretty hard to screw up as long as you have the main components.
I guess my main question is, is there a reason that the 50ft 1/4" aerobic portion needs to be contained in the reactor or can this be coiled under the stand and then enter the reactor?


JordanM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/08/2018, 02:10 AM   #15
laverda
Registered Member
 
laverda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 6,268
There is o reason the tubing can not be on the outside, as long as the tubing is not opaque. The length of the tubing probably does not need to be 50’, but how long it needs to be is hard to say. If your feeding the reactor with oxygen rich water as in the skimmer compartment it will need to be longer then if fed from a place with little circulation. Conceivably you could feed it from under your sand bed and use a relatively short length of tubing as the water would already be low in oxygen.


__________________
240G mixed reef, 29G SPS/LPS clam tank, 50G mixed reef

Current Tank Info: 300g mixed reef, 50g cube
laverda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/08/2018, 06:04 AM   #16
EnderG60
Plumbing Engineer
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Atlanta GA
Posts: 3,200
I have literally tried every kind of denitration filter there is. Long *** tube, aerobic zone, deep sand bed, sulpher denitrator and vodka.

None of them work well and needed constant almost daily adjustments to keep them running correctly.

Vodka is the easiest Ive tried with great results, but Im considering bio pellets now. I honestly would never again recommend any of the denitator units ever again. They can work but are a HUGE PINA.


EnderG60 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/08/2018, 08:27 AM   #17
JordanM
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by laverda View Post
There is o reason the tubing can not be on the outside, as long as the tubing is not opaque. The length of the tubing probably does not need to be 50’, but how long it needs to be is hard to say. If your feeding the reactor with oxygen rich water as in the skimmer compartment it will need to be longer then if fed from a place with little circulation. Conceivably you could feed it from under your sand bed and use a relatively short length of tubing as the water would already be low in oxygen.
What is the reason you cannot use opaque tubing?


JordanM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/12/2018, 12:20 AM   #18
laverda
Registered Member
 
laverda's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 6,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanM View Post
What is the reason you cannot use opaque tubing?
If the tubing is external you will get algae growing in it and producing oxygen.


__________________
240G mixed reef, 29G SPS/LPS clam tank, 50G mixed reef

Current Tank Info: 300g mixed reef, 50g cube
laverda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02/12/2018, 12:29 AM   #19
tkeracer619
Registered Member

 
tkeracer619's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 16,856
Quote:
Originally Posted by uncleof6 View Post
5 gallon home depot bucket, and 60lbs of silica sand. (aragonite oolitic is a better option, but costs more) Instant nitrate reactor, that will work far better and naturally, than any purpose "nitrate reactor," whether it uses a denitrating media, sugar, spice, sulfur whatever. Maintenance free and no media replacement necessary. Phosphates? Control your nitrates right, and no need to worry about phosphates.You only need control one of the several necessities for nuisance algae growth, to halt it dead in its tracks. Cyanobacteria, being the exception in that it can grow with next to nothing.
This is what I would do if you want some extra nitrogen reducing capabilities. Much better than a hardware based solution.


__________________
Hobby Experience: 9200ish gallons, 26 skimmers, and a handful of Kent Scrapers.
Current Tank:
Vortech Powered 600G SPS Tank w/ 100gal frag tank & 100g Sump. RK2-RK10 Skimmer. ReefAngel. Radium 20k.
tkeracer619 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:40 PM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2018 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright ©1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.