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Old 01/15/2015, 04:02 AM   #1
Pny
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Taking the O out of FOWLR

Introduction - This tank was setup about 7 years ago as my very first marine / reef tank. A short time later, after having two children, I realized that my time and economy did not let me grow this large tank into a full blown reef tank at that time. Instead it has been running as a FOWLR with just a few corals, mostly green star polyps and mushrooms. A year ago I set up a smaller 200 liter reef cube and got hooked on corals again. Now its time to take the O out of FOWLR and convert my large tank to a mixed reef! This thread covers my 1000 liter FOWLR to mixed reef conversion project.

Plan
The planning / main challenges for this project will be:

1, Reduce the coral chemícal warfare by reducing the amount of mushrooms. I currently have hundreds of Rhodactis indosinensis that also houses some pests.

2, Control of existing flatworm pests by removing most mushrooms, (that houses them), adding a few mandarin dragonets, (that might eat them), and eventually use some chemicals (that hopefully kills the last of them).

3, Upgrade / modify the LED lights to a setup with a bit more violet, 400-420 nm, (for the growth) and improve the area coverage of colors; red, green, cyan, amber, cold blue, etc (for the looks).

4, Reduce phosphates (PO4) and Nitrates (NO3) and simplify future export of nutrients. I've been using carbon source for years but it clogs my mechanical filter so I've been looking for alternatives. I've been experimenting with algae scrubbers, denitrifying media such as Seachem Matrix and Sera Siporax, and the Prodibio range of additatives, but still have to find the right method for my tank.

5, Introduction of corals by taking frags from my 200 liter reef cube.



Tank Description

Live stock - The display tank houses 7 Tangs, 4 Dwarf Angels and a few other fish.

Filtration - The aquarium is running on a modern version of the Berlin method, ie filtering is handled by live rock and an efficient skimmer, combined with modern methods of mechanical filtration, phosphate absorption and dosage of carbon source. The tank contains over 120 kg (260 lbs) of live rock. Two DIY upflow filters is used for media and a rollermat filter (Theiling) helps remove particles from the water.

Aquarium - The main display is a standard glass tank with eurobracing. The aquarium is a 980 liter (260 US gallons) glass tank, 200 x 70 x 70 cm, in 12mm glass with black background and black silicon.

Tank stand (DIY) - The aquarium stand is a wooden stand with doors from IKEA. The tank base is about 1 meter above the floor so it provides plenty of room for my sump and equipment inside the stand. I also like the idea of being able to look straight into the tank in standing position. The stand is isolated with sound proofing foam. Two fans ventilates the stand.

Sump (DIY) - The sump is a 380 liter (100 US gallons) tank measuring 115 x 54 x 60 cm in 10mm glass with black background. The sump is placed inside the stand under the display tank. The sump is partitioned into four sections. The sump holds about 100 liter fresh water for top off. The design allow water to flow back into the fresh water reserve instead of out on the floor in case of a failure of the equipment controlling the ATO. The return pump has its own section at the right side of the sump and the skimmer has its own section above the fresh water reservoir. A water change section holds about 100 liter water and allows me to mix new saltwater while the rest of the system is running without using any external buckets.

LED Light (DIY) - The light is a full spectrum DIY (2x275 W) LED fixture with DIY LED driver and DIY LED controller. The LED drivers was originally CAT4101 circuits but will be a mix of CAT4101 and Meanwell LDD-700L drivers. The LED controller is a very slim Arduino based stand alone 16 chn PWM controller with LCD, FAN control and RTC with battery backup.

Overflow (DIY) - The aquarium has a DIY PVC overflow made entirely from PVC pipes (no box required), utilizing a two pipe full siphon design for silent operation.

Return Pump - A powerful Laguna pump pushes 6000 liter/h (1500 gallons per hour) to my tank and reactors through a pipe manifold (DIY).

Circulation - The water movement in the tank is generated by five stream pumps each delivering a flow of 13.000 liter per hour. A controller (Tunze 7095) pulses the flow between the pumps. About half of the pumps is using the new wide flow outlets provided by Tunze.

Top Off - Top off is controlled by an ATO. The fresh water reserve is a section inside the sump. The ATO section holds water for about 1.5-2 weeks between refills. I refill this container manually. The water is filtered by a five stage reverse osmosis unit that produces water for both my tanks. The RO has a booster pump and is capable of generating 400 gpd. The water quality is measured with an inline TDS meter on the RO.

Waterchanges - I try to change about 10% of water every to every second month. I create RO/DI water in the utility area of my house, and mix new saltwater directly in the sump.

Ca Mg Alk and Carbon Supplement - A 3 channel dosing pump adds Alkalinity (NaHCO3), Calcium (CaCl2) and carbon source (12% acetic acid) to the tank. Mg and Iodine is added manually.

Temperature Control (DIY) - A DIY STC-1000 temperature controller regulates the temperature by controlling the fans and heaters. Two cooling sets with six fans each provides cooling during the summer.

Ozone and UV filters - Ozone is supplemented a few hour each night. This makes the water clear. The ozone is mixed with water in an Ozone reactor and the water and air is post filtered in a reactor filled with 3 liter carbon (GAC). ORP is supervised using a Pinpoint ORP-meter. Additionally a UVC filter is attached to the full siphon drain pipe from the aquarium.



System Profile
System Water Volume: 1040 liter (275 US gallons)
Display tank: 200x70x70cm, 980 liter glass tank
Sump: 115x54x60cm DIY glass sump with a built in ATO reservoir
Display Stand: DIY stand based on IKEA kitchen doors

Equipment
Lighting: 2x275W DIY LED, mainly Cree XT-E and Cree XP-G
Skimmer: Royal Exclusive Bubble King Supermarine 250 internal
Return Pump: Laguna PT344 Max Flo 6000 (6000 l/h - 1500 gallons/h)
Circulation: 5x Tunze stream 2 610x, each 13.000 liter/h
ATO: Tunze Osmolator 3155 with 100 l reservoir in sump
Filter: Theiling Rollermat automatic mechanical filter roll
Temp Control: Dual DIY STC-1000 Temperature Controller
Heater: Jaeger 2x300 W
Fan: 2x GHL PropellerBreeze II 6
Dosing: Kamoer 3 chn
Other Reactors: DIY upflow reactor (x2)
Ozone: Avast Mutiny II and custom postfilter
UV-filter: De Bary AN-25E
Auto Feeder: 2x Eheim 3581
RO/DI: Saturn 5 stage 400 gpd Reverse osmosis



Livestock

Fish
Blue Tang, Paracanthurus hepatus (x2)
Purple Tang, Zebrasoma xanthurum
Sailfin Tang, Zebrasoma veliferum
Red Sea Sailfin Tang, Zebrasoma desjardini
Yellow Tang, Zebrasoma flavescens
Lipstick Tang, Naso lituratus
Red-toothed Trigger, Odonus niger
Flame Angel, Centropyge loricula (x3)
Lemonpeel Angel, Centropyge flavissima
Yellowtail Damsel, Chrysiptera parasema
Clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris (x2)

Invertebrates
Assorted snails
Red-legged hermits
Peppermint Shrimps, Lysmata wurdemanni

Corals
Green star polyp, Pachyclavularia violacea
Hairy Mushroom, Rhodactis indosinensis
Blue Discosoma Mushroom, Discosoma sp.
Umbrella Leather Coral, Sarcophyton sp..
Mint green Ricordea florida mushrooms, Ricordea sp.

Water Parameter Targets
Salinity: 1.025 (Refractometer)
Temperature: 26.0 C (STC-1000)
Alkalinity: 8.6 dKH (Hanna)
Calcium: 460 ppm (Salifert)
Magnesium: 1350 dKH (Salifert)
Nitrate: 2 ppm (Red Sea / Salifert)
Phosphate: 0.06 ppm (Hanna)


Above: Tank just setup (many years ago).


Above: My 2 x 275 W DIY LED project


Attached Images
File Type: jpg fts.jpg (52.2 KB, 505 views)
File Type: jpg environment.jpg (85.8 KB, 499 views)
File Type: jpg fish-collage.jpg (98.2 KB, 496 views)
File Type: jpg LED-lights.jpg (56.4 KB, 498 views)
File Type: jpg sump.jpg (91.5 KB, 509 views)
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Old 01/15/2015, 04:04 AM   #2
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More photos...


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Old 01/15/2015, 04:08 AM   #3
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A few more photos before conversion to reef...


Above: Angels


Above: DIY tank cover


Above: DIY temperature controller


Above: Water parameters (Triton-LAB ICP-OES test)


Attached Images
File Type: jpg angels.jpg (63.1 KB, 486 views)
File Type: jpg cover.jpg (67.1 KB, 483 views)
File Type: jpg ICP-OES.jpg (92.4 KB, 486 views)
File Type: jpg stc-1000.jpg (51.3 KB, 484 views)

Last edited by Pny; 01/15/2015 at 04:24 AM.
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Old 01/15/2015, 06:39 AM   #4
ormet
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Best of luck with this conversion Peter, i will follow it with suspense!

Tbh i think your nutrient levels are very good for all stony corals.

But i guess you will cease with acetic acid dosing and try something else in the future?


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Old 01/15/2015, 06:50 AM   #5
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Thanks.

The nutrients (PO4 and NO3) has climbed a bit the last months as a result of my experiments with alternative export methods... I currently don't know if I could isolate the bacteria from the carbon dosing to some media or use another export method. My problem with carbon dosing is that it shortens the lifetime of the filter rolls used for mechanical filtration quite a bit.


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Old 01/15/2015, 07:18 AM   #6
ormet
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Do what Lunar (Krystof) does. Run AIO biopellets in recirc reactor and empty the effluent in its own filter sock near skimmer intake.

since the flow is pretty low i think it will take quite some time before a large 200 micron filtersock will get clogged.

I have no personal experience of this tho, i just thought it might be a solution.


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Old 01/15/2015, 02:35 PM   #7
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Awesome! Hope to see it one day.


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Old 01/16/2015, 01:44 AM   #8
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Just got delivery of some LED's and drivers for the upgrade...




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Old 01/16/2015, 05:50 AM   #9
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LED Upgrade...

These are LED stars with 3 different LED:s each. 3-up LED with Luxeon Rebel, Cold blue (480 nm), Cyan (505 nm) and Deep Red (660 nm), and 3-up LED with Cree XP-E2: Green (525 nm), Amber (590 nm) and Red (625 nm).

In addition I'm planning to add some violet LEDs (405-420 nm), and keep most of the current LED's; Exotic Hyper Violet (420 nm), Cree XP-G Neutral white and Cree XT-E Royal Blue (455 nm). (The 3up LED will replace todays setup of deep red, green, cold blue och cyan LED's)

I still need to decide if I want 4 pcs of Violet LED and 3 pcs of Cree XP-E2 (Green, Amber, Red) as pictured (center row), or change place to get 3 pcs Violet and 4 pcs Cree XP-E2 (Green, Amber, Red) per fixture.




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Last edited by Pny; 01/16/2015 at 05:57 AM.
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Old 01/18/2015, 07:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pny View Post
Control of existing flatworm pests...
Added some flatworm eating live stock to the tank...

Green Mandarin, Synchiropus splendidus x2
Six Line Wrasse, Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
Scooter Blenny, Synchiropus ocellatus
Bluestreak cleaner wrasse, Labroides dimidiatus x2

Let see if my current set of Tangs accept them...


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Old 01/18/2015, 09:46 AM   #11
worm5406
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You added all of those??


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Stock:LPS/SPS|1 hippo|4 OC Clown|4 Pepp shrimp|2 Brittle Star|3000+ Copepods|10+ MiniBrittle|8+ Bristle Worm|2 Anemone|100+ mini-feather|4 boys 14,21,22,22

Current Tank Info: Tank:300g Mixed Reef 300+lb LR|4" LS|5x MP40W|75g fuge|5x RadionPRO|RO DB250 skimmer|Apex
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Old 01/21/2015, 02:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by worm5406 View Post
You added all of those??
Yes, I prefer adding more than one fish at a time to spread any aggression on multiple newcomers.


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Old 01/21/2015, 02:37 PM   #13
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Soldered a few LED driver boards tonight...



Using Meanwell LDD-L instead of LDD-H circuits gets the size down of the driver boards... and I have only 25V DC supply anyway...


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Old 02/15/2015, 12:12 PM   #14
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Updating my plumbing and cleaning my skimmer to improve nitrate reduction...


Above: Left side of sump with skimmer and pump for ozon reactor.


Above: Right side of sump with Rollermat filter and upflow reactors.


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Old 02/15/2015, 12:26 PM   #15
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awesome tank. looking forward to seeing the progress. I am starting with a FOWLR also


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Old 02/20/2015, 01:43 AM   #16
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Modified my rollermat filter with an internal pipe going from the inlet at the bottom to the surface of the water inside it. This will help to provide a constant back pressure to the overflow that is feeding the filter with water. Since the rollermat internal waterlevel now does not affect the amount of flow from the overflow my sensitive overflow will now (hopefully) become a bit easier to adjust.






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