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Old 04/02/2015, 10:17 PM   #26
Bagabaga
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Yeah they will need to slowly acclimate. I started at 30% each source and worked it up over a few weeks.

Yeah these are the only lighting over my tank and it's working great so far. I've seen sps growth and recovery of some rescue corals and after moving my zoa this's down they open fully and are splitting. I just have to figure it my stupid hair algae problem and I'll be set.


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Old 04/03/2015, 10:10 AM   #27
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Yeah they will need to slowly acclimate. I started at 30% each source and worked it up over a few weeks.

Yeah these are the only lighting over my tank and it's working great so far. I've seen sps growth and recovery of some rescue corals and after moving my zoa this's down they open fully and are splitting. I just have to figure it my stupid hair algae problem and I'll be set.
The algae problem will be easy to fix by taking the nutrients out of the water, remove the phosphates with GFO (I run a bag of GFO in a canister filter, that's the only thing I have in a canister filter and GAC for 3-4 days/month) for nitrates either start dosing vodka like is very well explained here: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/ or run BioPellets in a reactor or canister filter....

Did you notice change in colors for corals under LED in comparison with MH or radium or T5s?


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Old 04/03/2015, 06:48 PM   #28
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I did notice they colored up compared to my t5 ho lights. They are brighter and more extended. I have mine 6 inches from the surface. Which means my par on the bottom is probably a good half again as high as the par readings stated before.


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Old 04/05/2015, 12:35 PM   #29
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This light is pretty great! I just hung it up this morning, it's suspended about 14" above the surface of the water on a 27 gallon cube (20"x18.5"x20" deep). A huge upgrade over the current orbit marine.


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Old 04/05/2015, 02:33 PM   #30
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Hi guys, just thought I would chime in... I'm still in the planning stage for a 40g breeder and want high demand corals eventually. I only want to buy a fixture once, will a single 165w do it or should I be looking at the 300w? Or perhaps 2 of the 165w units, the price is about the same for a pair as it is for a 300w...



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Old 04/05/2015, 07:07 PM   #31
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A 300w unit would fit dimensionally I believe. It does have 60 degree lenses to focus the light more. I would say it would give good coverage. Maybe a minor amount of shadowing. But with how shallow the tank would be compared to mine you wouldn't even need to run to 50% on either to get great light for sps.


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Old 04/05/2015, 07:30 PM   #32
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I take it that means a single 165w just won't cut it.. If that's the case I think I like the idea of duel 165w because they would hit the outside corners a bit better. I just hate the idea of a fixture I have to turn down to 50% simply because it doesn't spread enough... The units I'm looking at would be $240 for the pair and have 90 lenses. Still not a bad bargain for enough light to grow ANYTHING a guy could dream up :-). Hopefully I don't become an Alger farmer


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Old 04/06/2015, 02:57 PM   #33
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I take it that means a single 165w just won't cut it.. If that's the case I think I like the idea of duel 165w because they would hit the outside corners a bit better. I just hate the idea of a fixture I have to turn down to 50% simply because it doesn't spread enough... The units I'm looking at would be $240 for the pair and have 90 lenses. Still not a bad bargain for enough light to grow ANYTHING a guy could dream up :-). Hopefully I don't become an Alger farmer
I just got my 300W today and that is for my 40g tank. The fixture is more than you need and it hits ALL the corners you want. You can replace the lenses with 90 or 120. You can also replace the LED if you fancy some CREE but you know what, I have no idea why this fixtures are not recommended to anyone who wants a VERY GOOD light at a very low price? This is a great fixture as it is and you can customize it along the way doing whatever you want with it....
I am so glad I bought this...


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Old 04/06/2015, 08:11 PM   #34
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I think most people are worried about the longevity of the fixture more than anything else


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Old 04/06/2015, 09:04 PM   #35
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Do we have any real statistics on their longevity? And can someone provide details on the 300w unit that's been mentioned. The 300w units I've read reviews on have not faired so well. People said they are not as bright as anticipated but everyone here, so far, loves them.. I am still several months from needing mine so want to watch and feel out how they do in the long term. Last question, as I pretty much a noob in the saltwater department, what are good par values for coral? My new tank is a 40g breeder that is only 16" deep and with sand it becomes even more shallow...


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Old 04/06/2015, 10:25 PM   #36
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Do we have any real statistics on their longevity? And can someone provide details on the 300w unit that's been mentioned. The 300w units I've read reviews on have not faired so well. People said they are not as bright as anticipated but everyone here, so far, loves them.. I am still several months from needing mine so want to watch and feel out how they do in the long term. Last question, as I pretty much a noob in the saltwater department, what are good par values for coral? My new tank is a 40g breeder that is only 16" deep and with sand it becomes even more shallow...
The exact unit I bought it's here with all the specs and I believe is the same as anyone else here has.
I was more interested in the light spectrum and wavelength which nm (nanometer) stands for, in comparison with the most recent studies on photosynthesis this unit has more than you actually need for any type of corals. As a simple rule PAR is just an incomplete indication for "measuring" your lights, what you have to look in the first place is PUR (Photosynthetically Useable Radiation) 400nm-550nm; which according to most recent studies for corals is between 465nm-485nm. The near infrared light of 620nm-740nm is not essential and it does not penetrate the water much anyways unless you really have very shallow water.
The dimmers will allow you to combine a large variety of colors, this is where you are getting your color temperature, measured in Kelvins (K).
Between 9000K-10.000K is suitable for 12"-20" aquariums
14.000K is a wonderful daylight color and corals have excellent growth rates, this light is for aquariums 15"-30" depth
20.000K brings out the superb fluorescence in corals but with exception of thanks deeper than 24" using this light alone has been reported to slow down, even stop the corals growth.
As per longevity of the lights, I really wouldn't worry. LED are rated at about 50.000-100.000 hours and this are actually not your cheap flashlight chinese LED, those are Epistar LEDs and they have that output and wavelength. Of course there is a debate for "high-end" lights and for a good reason I agree you cannot compare apples to oranges. Corporations making you pay well, more for their marketing and a little bit for their research in the field. But when it comes down to it, light is light if it has the same output and the same wavelength and the same color... and more than anything if it was tested on corals you want to keep and it works, ask yourself if you will pay $1700 for 5 lbs less on the fixture and lenses 10x smaller... when you can have yeah... bulky lenses and a heavy fixture but works exactly the same if not better. Plus if a LED burns I am sure they will send you replacement for free, just watch YouTube for "solder LED diode", even the high end LED are $1.50 so you can't go wrong for that $160 that will last you at least 10 years...


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Old 04/06/2015, 10:47 PM   #37
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Yeah longevity wise I've had mine 3 months about. It did arrive with a faulty led in a corner but I emailed the company and within a week I had 4 replacements mailed to me. Diodes and the resistors 4 each. They even gave me instructions on how to replace them and all other parts. Warranty wise I'm not sure if there is one but the parts are cheap enough to replace yourself and pretty user friendly.

As for par it is just a measure of the available radiation as for penetration of light. Lenses cause light further down or more spread out. The LEDs are built with 120* lenses and optics are added to decrease the angle and have more light penetrate further down. I needed 60* lenses because my tank is 24 inches deep and I have a maxima clam on the sand which needs plenty of light.

As for spectrum it is pretty good, if I could go back and select my own led combination I'd have less low kelvin and no greens and reds. But that's just preference.

My 300w fixture is the same Mars Aqua fixture they describe and is plenty enough to grow my cats paw sps about 10 inches from the light itself at 75% blues and 30-50% whites. It may be too much for my zoas though they are almost in the sand.

All in all a good investment. It helps me understand LEDs for future fixtures and was cheap enough to be a mistake and not make my wife murder me.


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Old 04/06/2015, 10:56 PM   #38
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Those lights are probably not even UL/CSA certified, I wouldn't risk to get a fire and get no insurance coverage.

My .02$


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Old 04/07/2015, 01:03 AM   #39
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Those lights are probably not even UL/CSA certified, I wouldn't risk to get a fire and get no insurance coverage.

My .02$
You are giving people wrong information.
1. Home electronics require CSA or equivalent to be sold, but there are no laws stating that you are not allowed to custom build your own electronics. You need to be licensed (or the homeowner) to wire your light fixtures in the ceiling, change a receptacle, change the wiring in the walls, etc. That is, anything permanent, and a permit is needed as well. Now if there is a fire, i highly doubt it will be from an aquarium light, but diy's can cover themselves from claims that would say otherwise... how? simply put. GROUND YOUR FIXTURES AND USE A GFCI. oh organize your power cables so only one enters the wall socket, and all others are not on the floor.
2. I was able to find the parts of MarsAqua in UL database listing
3. That company has no recalls/incidents listed since was founded in 2007
And in the end, no UL certification legally guarantees your safety... it's stipulated on their agreement... on the website. Also they are saying UV light causes no retinal damage therefore is not regulated. Really?!?


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Old 04/07/2015, 01:19 AM   #40
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Those lights are probably not even UL/CSA certified, I wouldn't risk to get a fire and get no insurance coverage.

My .02$
On their website these fixtures are UL certified. It even warns you that other LED fixtures are not UL certified so at least the MarsAqua are.

I happened to open one of the 300w fixtures and build is quite good for a Chinese manufacturer. Case is solid, glass is sealed quite well to prevent moisture/salt from getting inside. Drivers are in harnesses for easy replacement. LED panels was nicely assembled.


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Old 04/07/2015, 01:42 AM   #41
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On their website these fixtures are UL certified. It even warns you that other LED fixtures are not UL certified so at least the MarsAqua are.

I happened to open one of the 300w fixtures and build is quite good for a Chinese manufacturer. Case is solid, glass is sealed quite well to prevent moisture/salt from getting inside. Drivers are in harnesses for easy replacement. LED panels was nicely assembled.
Did you do any modifications to it? I was thinking to add some 420nm UV but after I read more new studies on coral photosynthesis wavelengths I decided not to modify my unit and keep it as it is. Also I know licensed electricians here who are also reef tank keepers owning this fixture and they assured me it's good and also perfectly legal with no issues whatsoever. Of course I cannot speak for other countries and states or Planet Quebec...
Also I have no doubt high end LEDs fixtures are more efficient, slimmer, lightweight and all, but like I said, to me personally it just comes down to light good for corals... that's it.


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Old 04/07/2015, 07:46 AM   #42
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I was thinking to add some 420nm UV
420 nm is just V. Not UV


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Old 04/07/2015, 10:35 AM   #43
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420 nm is just V. Not UV
Yes, that's what I meant but I guess it was late and I was typing overzealous. I will correct my mistake in the post.
Thanks


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Old 04/07/2015, 10:39 AM   #44
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Did you do any modifications to it? I was thinking to add some 420nm UV but after I read more new studies on coral photosynthesis wavelengths I decided not to modify my unit and keep it as it is. Also I know licensed electricians here who are also reef tank keepers owning this fixture and they assured me it's good and also perfectly legal with no issues whatsoever. Of course I cannot speak for other countries and states or Planet Quebec...
Also I have no doubt high end LEDs fixtures are more efficient, slimmer, lightweight and all, but like I said, to me personally it just comes down to light good for corals... that's it.
I didnt mod mine. I just replaced two drivers because they were defective from accidentally getting wet. LEDs seems easily replaceable. Just need a soldering iron


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Old 04/07/2015, 11:52 AM   #45
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cthetoy, When open did you see any way to replace the drivers with 0-10v drivers and have an external power supply. I would love to control with APEX and this could be a cheaper and more tidy option to a full DIY.
Thanks
Dave


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Old 04/07/2015, 07:16 PM   #46
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cthetoy, When open did you see any way to replace the drivers with 0-10v drivers and have an external power supply. I would love to control with APEX and this could be a cheaper and more tidy option to a full DIY.
Thanks
Dave
I was wondering the same thing and I saw people doing it on youtube but looks so tedious and time consuming.... plus it doesn't look tidy anymore, I think the guy had 7 cables from each fixture and he had 10 fixture over a big tank....


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Old 04/07/2015, 10:59 PM   #47
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How much more control would you have from apex going to 10v? I have an apex (currently on my planted FW) but am pretty much a noob at its higher uses too.. Lots to learn lol


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Old 04/08/2015, 09:53 AM   #48
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I finally got this lights up on the wall... It was so hard to find something sturdy enough to hold it and to look somehow nice in an office space... So we went for LeeValley wall brackets which are cast aluminum and epoxy coated in conjunction with snaptoggle bolts which are rated for 238 lbs in a 1/2" drywall (our drywall there is 3/4) and the chains are from home depot, the regular chandelier chains...
The lights can be adjusted up and down easily and right now are at 10.5" from the water running at almost minimum intensity and I those are super bright.
I only have a colony of zoas at the bottom of that 14" deep tank and a frag of aussie acans in the middle... I wonder if I should move the acans down and turn up the intensity of the light and start adding more corals? How do you guys adjust this lights? Just by moving your sps up and anything else at the bottom of the tank? To me these lights look super bright... and I think I run them at 5% of their total capacity...


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Old 04/08/2015, 10:11 AM   #49
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Looks awesome Paul! Can't wait until I can actually start my build, but that will be the fixture I end up with


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Old 04/08/2015, 12:06 PM   #50
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I don't have any recent shots, but I purchased two of the 165 watt models for my 90 gallon 24 " deep tank and have had them running for 2 months. I have a torch, Hammer and some Zoa's in the tank and so far they seem to be ok with the lighting. I bleached some of the Zoa's with the lights but moved them down in the tank and adjusted my lighting. I currently run these lights at 75% Blue and 50% white and they are mounted in a canopy 13" off the water. I'm happy with these lights and for the price was a great choice to start with. Below are some shots of the lights as I have them mounted.










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