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Old 04/10/2015, 07:22 AM   #76
CaptreeOne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paullondon View Post
Which one? Which Mars, they have tons of models...? http://stores.ebay.com/marshydrousastore/
My bad, would want to mod the 165w.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MarsAqua-Dim...item5658ce27ed


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Old 04/10/2015, 11:35 AM   #77
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Just to clarify that these units have no controller so you can dim the LEDs with a controller like an Apex. You CAN MANUALLY DIM the blue and DIM the white separately with the knob on top.

Since there is an AC plug for white and another AC plug for blues you can have you blues come on first then whites later on your Apex, timer, etc. You just can not dim them automatically. Just manually.


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Old 04/10/2015, 11:54 AM   #78
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Thanks for that, I was thinking some didn't quite understand. The question I'm still asking is if they can be modified to have independent dimming and programming. If anyone has a link to a how too that would be cool.


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Old 04/10/2015, 04:32 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by Icefire View Post
http://www.esasafe.com/assets/files/...ins/2-7-29.pdf

It's part of the electrical code it, if it's not in the exeption (low voltage, low VA), it must be approuved. Leds can get in the 160 watts and more which can get hot enought to melt plastics if it's not dissipated correctly. GFCI won't help for arcing fault or a fire unless it short put.
That part of the code hereby does not concern you as a buyer, it is strictly for sellers who are distributing electrical products in Canada.
This LED lights are legally considered portable luminaries, a plug-in lamp. In order for an insurance company to deny coverage they will HAVE TO PROVE you voluntarily connected the lights to the home circuit in a wrongfully and criminal manner with the intent of causing fire or cause injury.
As a side note there are no aquarium fixtures CSA/UL approved. In order for that to happen they would carry the specification CSA for damp/wet and rated and listed as such in the directory. If a MH has CSA is NOT for use with your aquarium or near water. The only wet CSA/UL I've seen so fr was for the lights on boats. And your T5 fixture for example, it is not CSA/UL approved for marine aquarium use.
The information I posted previously is from an electrician running a company for 35 years...


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Old 04/10/2015, 05:57 PM   #80
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http://www.forum.digitalaquatics.com...p?f=21&t=13360

link for converting chinese black boxes with knob dimmers to work with the reefkeeper ALC module, I would assume a similar mod can be done for making it work with an Apex.


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Old 04/10/2015, 05:57 PM   #81
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My light is 18" off the surface of the water. 12 inch deep tank. (Frag tank) .

Full blast both blue and white I was getting 400 par at the surface and 200 par 12 inches down.

Half power I was getting 250 par at the surface and 125 at the bottom (12" deep)
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Originally Posted by xghxh View Post
any par readings so far?
The values were posted at the beginning of this thread


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Old 04/10/2015, 06:05 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Swope2bc View Post
Thanks for that, I was thinking some didn't quite understand. The question I'm still asking is if they can be modified to have independent dimming and programming. If anyone has a link to a how too that would be cool.
https://youtu.be/FMnxrO8Fbug

https://youtu.be/sKj3l1d8gic

Also a very nice thread here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2332822


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Old 04/10/2015, 06:06 PM   #83
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Sweet! Thanks guys


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Old 04/19/2015, 11:31 AM   #84
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I have a 65 gallon 36x18x24 tank that I want to change from T5s. It will be primarily softies. Would the 165wt unit give me enough spread or should I go for the wider 300wt unit?


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Old 04/19/2015, 12:02 PM   #85
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Get two of the small ones or one larger one. A single 165 watt will be way too small


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Old 04/19/2015, 03:28 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by Bpb View Post
Get two of the small ones or one larger one. A single 165 watt will be way too small
+1 Get 2 small ones or the 300W
This is how the 300W looks on a tank of about the same length as yours but is only 40 gallons...



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Old 04/19/2015, 06:37 PM   #87
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Thank you for the feedback Bpb and paullondon. The light spread looks good in the picture. Will likely just go for the 300wt unit then. Good thread here.


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Old 04/19/2015, 10:54 PM   #88
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Thinking of going with a 3 pack of the 165w for my 120 (4x2x2). Softies, lps and an rbta. Think that gives me the coverage I need? Thanks all.


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Old 04/19/2015, 11:00 PM   #89
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Sorry, but also how far off the water should I mount them? Thanks


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Old 04/19/2015, 11:24 PM   #90
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I don't have the first hand experience but if your tank is only 4' I think a 2 pack would be sufficient.


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Old 04/20/2015, 11:42 PM   #91
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Sorry, but also how far off the water should I mount them? Thanks
Since the measurements posted at the star of this topic were:
"My light is 18" off the surface of the water. 12 inch deep tank. (Frag tank) .

Full blast both blue and white I was getting 400 par at the surface and 200 par 12 inches down.

Half power I was getting 250 par at the surface and 125 at the bottom (12" deep)"

I placed my lights on chandelier chains on brackets (see pic above) so I can easily move them up and down. The lowest I can set them is 10" above water surface and the highest is 29"-30" above water surface.
This is sufficient to successfully keep most SPS and LPS


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Old 04/21/2015, 12:42 PM   #92
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Whats the length on the 300w unit? Would two be ok on a 265 (82x24X30) if i expect some shadowing? Or should I go with 3 165w units? Im worried about the 30inch depth.


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Old 04/22/2015, 10:48 AM   #93
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I know I'm late to the party, but I'm looking to light the Nuvo 40 gallon, and I had been recommended the D2120 but wanted to know if these were better.


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Old 04/22/2015, 10:58 AM   #94
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Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cent View Post
I know I'm late to the party, but I'm looking to light the Nuvo 40 gallon, and I had been recommended the D2120 but wanted to know if these were better.

Without any first hand experience, basically I just peaked at the add, they appear to be similar units with a different name pasted on to me... What are the dimensions of your 40g? (Just looked up the dims and one unit will be fine) I would try to research the customer support available from that company (if any). For the extra $25 for the Mars unit and some semblance of support and US warehouse for replacement, and support I would spend the extra. That being said the unit you listed does ship from California...


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Old 04/22/2015, 11:30 AM   #95
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Thanks for the response! I was really wondering if the wattage difference (120 vs 165) would really make a difference in a 40 gallon tank.


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Old 04/22/2015, 11:44 AM   #96
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Mars Aqua Chinese LED review (Ebay)

The 165 w is actually an over rating.. 55 3w LEDs in both fixtures. Rated 165w but actual output is only about 120w on the Mars units also. These are Chinese "black box" units and basically the same unit rebranded.



Last edited by Swope2bc; 04/22/2015 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 04/22/2015, 11:44 AM   #97
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Thanks for the response! I was really wondering if the wattage difference (120 vs 165) would really make a difference in a 40 gallon tank.
There isn't a difference. 165 watts is just the "nominal" or "rated" wattage. They get this number by just adding up the max wattage of all the diodes. ALL of these units are only driven to 2.2 watts per diode at max power which rings in at around 120 watts actual power. Read the fine print. Hardly anyone runs them at 100% anyway


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Old 04/22/2015, 11:49 AM   #98
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There isn't a difference. 165 watts is just the "nominal" or "rated" wattage. They get this number by just adding up the max wattage of all the diodes. ALL of these units are only driven to 2.2 watts per diode at max power which rings in at around 120 watts actual power. Read the fine print. Hardly anyone runs them at 100% anyway

Exactly! Only Bpb was much more clear than me lol


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Old 04/22/2015, 12:29 PM   #99
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Today I learned something! Thanks for your help guys.


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Old 04/22/2015, 01:35 PM   #100
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Exactly! Only Bpb was much more clear than me lol
LOL we submitted our posts at the exact same time.


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