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Old 11/10/2015, 09:57 PM   #1
jason2459
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Nitrate Test Kit Shoot out: NYOS Salifert RedSea API

Based off another thread that sparked my interest to test out a new Nyos Nitrate test kit that others were liking and comparing it to other kits I ordered a few in plus the API and Red Sea Pro I already had.

What I'm about to go over I've gone over many times in many threads so the meat and potatoes will be in a following post and the rest of this post can be ignored which I'm sure it will be anyways if not the entire thread.

I've done quite a few comparisons in the past. Here's one I did years ago of API vs. Salifert Calcium and Alk kits.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1927189

And a recent one I just posted and got results in today on various tests I do and abilities to do them so it was a me(and reliability of hobby kits) vs. Triton.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2537234

I've always been a fan of API when I can use them as they are cheap, consistent for me, and accurate enough for me. I don't try or want to try to run a ULNS system. I aim to be in a range for pretty much all parameters based on what Randy Holms-Farley lists over in this great article
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php

I find the key to getting consistent results is making sure I do all the tests ( from prep, execution, reading, and clean up) is done as exactly the same as possible every time along with making sure the reagents are not close to expiring.

So, with all that said here it goes. My results from tonight will follow this post and what I plan to do next will be at the end. As in the next week or so I have more tests and comparisons to do.





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Old 11/10/2015, 10:34 PM   #2
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Guess I'll start off with API. It's definitely the cheapest @ ~$9-$15 depending on where you find it. Which is another plus for these. You can find API just about anywhere. I picked this one up and my LFS.

The biggest con for this kit is that it's not designed for ultra low ranges. Which for me is OK. I'm just looking to be bellow 5 and that's easy to see the difference between 0 and 5 on the color chart. At least for me it is.

Testing wise its also not the easiest as bottle two you really really really really really have to shake the snot out of it.

One other note brought up before is the accuracy of the vial. Well, its not accurate. Or at least I've never depended on it. I draw 5ml out with a syringe but it seems to line up pretty close when I've thought to look.






As for the results, they are just as I've always gotten.





I read that as undetectable or according to API as 0. In fact I don't ever remember having a nitrate problem. I've had plenty of PO4 problems and mainly from pukani dry rock leaching like mad for over a year before it was known that they do that. Only if I knew then what I knew now and lanthanum chloride would have been extremely helpful. But carbon dosing did wonders for me and I learned a lot.


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Old 11/10/2015, 10:45 PM   #3
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Next, Salifert.

This had to be the easiest and quickest test to perform. It also was the hardest to read. I could see this being near impossible for some.

It is moderately priced around $20-$28. It is able to make readings under 5. Though it was based on hoping the "magnification" was multiplied by 10. I find that rather silly.

Testing was just a quick swirling around the reagent, spoon of the next reagent, swirling around a bit, and waiting a few minutes. Quick and easy.

Now the results on the other hand.
For the high range you look from above.

OK I see 0


So then you have to look from the side and divide the result by ten depending on the magnification being accurate to get the low range.

So, I think somewhere between 10 and 25 but closer to 10 or 1 and 2.5



On the plus side its definitely below 5. Way easier and quicker than doing the API kit of drip, mix, SHAKE/POUND/SLAM/SHAKE, drip, mix, and then wait 5 minutes.


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Old 11/10/2015, 11:07 PM   #4
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On to Red Sea. I've not been a fan of the Red Sea kits in the past. It's like they try really hard to make you think you have lab grade stuff and make the testing have more steps or difficult then really necessary in what I guess is trying to make you feel like you're ready to wear a lab coat. This is after using several different kits of theirs.

The main kits themselves are around $25-$35. But with these you can just buy the reagents. For the nitrate reagents they are around $15-$20.

That trying really hard to feel like a lab grade test kit was still there on opening and using this kit again. More steps with this one then any of the other kits (no carpal tunnel risk though) and takes longer. Last wait time at the end being 9 minutes. Not a huge deal but something to note.

But taking a reading is probably the easiest of them all when dealing with the lower ranges. The amount of sample water is the most allowing the color be more apparent. But it is all based on the shades of the same color. I could see some color blind people having a hard time with this one as well.

If I were trying for a ULNS system and trying to determine and track these lower ranges this would be the one I would go with.

It was hard for me to get a picture of this but what I read is between 1 and 2 which lines up with what Salifert was reading as well.



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Old 11/10/2015, 11:22 PM   #5
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Last and maybe least is the Nyos nitrate test kit. I was excited for this one. Heard lots of how easy and precise and accurate etc etc it is compared to everything else. I was rather let down I think.

Moderately priced and comparable with Salifert. ~$25. Basic box and packaging as well. This was more like the red sea resting procedure with two vials and matching against each other along the color sheet. I did find the wheel easy to use and read but the sheet is much easier to store.

Testing wasn't any quicker then Salifert and found the reading of it to be negligibly easier if not the same. The water sample is small but a little more then the Salifert. Red Sea has a nice big sample making the concentration of color easier to read.

So, for my reading tonight. I think I am reading slightly under 1 with the Nyos. Under what both Red Sea and Salifert reds. Plus the resolution jumps from 0, 1, 3 and then big jumps after that. Not nearly as fine as redsea or Salifert. If I'm going to spend the money on the lower readings I would rather a smaller jump.

Again, sorry hard to get a picture. But what I read as just under 1.



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Old 11/10/2015, 11:40 PM   #6
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Overall I'm happy with API, Salifert, and Red Sea. Kind of disappointed in Nyos.

API:
Pros:
-Cheap
-Accurate enough for those not looking for ULNS or trying to track low ranges
- Can be found just about anywhere
- Color changes from 0, 5, and 10 are fairly easy to read

Cons:
-Bottle #2 takes a lot of shaking and beating.
-Can't rely on vials accuracy but it would be negligible to the results if you do as this isn't looking for ultra low ranges.
- above 10 until you hit 80 the color changes are harder to read but really if you are in those ranges you may want to consider reducing nitrates IMO

Salifert:
Pros:
-Very easy to perform the test
-Quick
- Simple
-Can get into the lower ranges

Cons:
-low ranges depends on magnification (though seemed to match up against the other low range tests)
- Cost is moderately priced so barely a con
- Hardest or ties with hardest to read for the low ranges

Red Sea Pro:
Pros:
- Easiest to read
- Can read into the lower ranges
- Reagents can be purchased separately making long term costs slightly cheaper

Cons:
-More steps and longer to test then others. More steps could give cause to more user error and bad reagents
- initial cost of kit is higher
- labeled "pro" but it is still a hobby test kit

Nyos:
Pros:
- Can read into the lower ranges
- fairly easy to execute the test

Cons:
- cost slightly higher
- not as high of a resolution into the lower ranges as Salifert or Red Sea
- not quite so easy to read into the lower resolutions


After all that. I'm actually considering the Salifert Nitrate as the test for me. As I don't test all that often and when I do I really just want to do something as quick and easy as possible and to see if I'm below 5. Salifert was the easiest and quickest IMO. Reading if it was under 5 was easy as well. Even though it's more expensive then the API which has always been my go to.

If I wanted to get into the lower ranges then I would consider Red Sea for its ease of reading. The wheel and the larger amount of water used was helpful.


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Old 11/10/2015, 11:43 PM   #7
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Now, coming up in the next week or so I'll be doing another round of Nitrate tests but also including Aquamedic's AWT testing which has been questionable in the past. But I do see they include Nitrate in their testing.

Along with that though I will be pretty much testing every kit and probe I have against AWT and Triton. So, it will be Me vs. AWT vs. Triton battle royal.




Those plus a Salifert Phosphate, Calcium, and Alk test. I think I'll be done testing for the next 5 years after that.


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Old 11/11/2015, 12:29 AM   #8
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Thanks for the insight.


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Old 11/11/2015, 06:24 AM   #9
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I dont get the low resolution of NYOS kits. Even their ALK kit has at best, a 1dKH resoultion.


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Old 11/11/2015, 07:22 AM   #10
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Quote:
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I dont get the low resolution of NYOS kits. Even their ALK kit has at best, a 1dKH resoultion.
Yes, it is lacking.


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Old 11/11/2015, 07:58 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breadman03 View Post
Thanks for the insight.
No problem. It actually helped me and may have swung me in another direction for Nitrate testing. I don't test it often and less often then other tests as it's just never has been something I've had any elevated levels of. If I see something going on in the tank is about the only time I will check it. Even with cyano and algae bouts nitrates haven't been registering above 5.


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Old 11/11/2015, 04:25 PM   #12
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Interesting writeup. I'll be interested in the updates.


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Old 11/11/2015, 04:44 PM   #13
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Thanks. I'm most interested to comparing vs AWT.


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Old 11/11/2015, 07:35 PM   #14
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I like your investigation.

I too like API. No matter what test I use, I either use a Hanna checker to give me a number which I translate to ppm of whatever with a calibration curve or I use a colorimeter app for my iPad camera to read the color of the solution which again I use a calibration curve to translate it to ppm of whatever. It is more work but I don't have to read charts and I can cut the test solutions in half to double the number of tests per kit (I perform a lot of tests).


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Old 11/11/2015, 07:52 PM   #15
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Nice write up. I to use mostly api for my tests except nitrates, which I use salifert. To all those out there reading this, definitely don't rely on the 5ml line on api's test tube. I use a syringe to get the 5ml of water and when I put it in the test tubes it has never lined up, in all of my kits.


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Old 11/11/2015, 07:57 PM   #16
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In fact, they are all completely different. I thought for a second that maybe it was my syringe so I tried mutiple syringes in many different combinations (1ml, 3ml, 5ml, 10ml) to get the desired 5ml. All proved the line to be way off. And to think, I really only figured this out recently. All this time my tests were not completely accurate.


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Old 11/11/2015, 09:10 PM   #17
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I've seen a couple threads now on those 5ml vials and pictures showing how off they look. There is one good thread though where I think it was Disc1 did mention (I'm paraphrasing here) that even though they are off from each other the results in error is minor. Makes sense to me as the API kits are a low resolution scale.

But yes, I agree I use and would suggest a reliable syringe as well.


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Old 11/11/2015, 09:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_P View Post
I like your investigation.

I too like API. No matter what test I use, I either use a Hanna checker to give me a number which I translate to ppm of whatever with a calibration curve or I use a colorimeter app for my iPad camera to read the color of the solution which again I use a calibration curve to translate it to ppm of whatever. It is more work but I don't have to read charts and I can cut the test solutions in half to double the number of tests per kit (I perform a lot of tests).
Thanks. I've seen a couple threads people using color scale apps to help differentiate between shades. Very interesting. I have a pool test kit that uses an app to use the camera on my phone to scan the strips and give me the results including what chemicals I should use. I trust it to kill anything in the water I don't want. Buy that's my pool. I would hesitate to trust it to keep anything alive. lol


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Old 11/12/2015, 03:44 AM   #19
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Great write up. I have also done those tests myself a few years back and came to the same conclusion and now only use salifert for nitrate. The pounding and beating the liveing snot out of the api kit is just to much, but that aside not a horriable kit for the price.


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Old 11/12/2015, 02:58 PM   #20
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I vote for Salifert hands down I find it the easiest to read even at the lower ranges. Step outside it helps lol and the test is fast and hassle free. So I test more often that's for sure. I can tell the difference between 0 2.5 and 5 on the Salifert but never could on the api


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Old 11/13/2015, 02:34 PM   #21
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Thanks for the input. Since I really only target under 5 looking from above will be painless and good enough for me with the Salifert kit.


It's looking like I'm going to have two more rounds of tests coming up. I've acquired enough PO4 kits to do a PO4 kit shootout like this nitrate one. It'll be Hanna Low Range Phosphate checker, Hanna ULR checker, Salifert, Seachem, and Elos Pro. Against each other. Only one I don't have yet is the Elos Pro which I should have next week and the AWT kit which I was hoping to have today. I have the Triton kit in hand already.

Then I'll do the all out battle vs. AWT and Triton. Though I'll cut back on which tests I'll do based on which two PO4 and Nitrate kits I like better. I would be surprised if one of them isn't the Hanna ULR Checker but my preference was changed in regards to Nitrates so I'll keep an open mind.

It'll end up being

Cal: API, Salifert, AWT, Triton
Alk: API, Salifert, AWT
Mg: Salifert, RedSea Pro, AWT, Triton
Nitrates: Salifert, RedSea Pro, AWT
P: TBD, TBD, AWT, Triton

Then AWT tests vs Triton where they test for the same things.

Plus, all my probes (pH, Salinity, Temp, Orp) just because they are super quick and already mostly logged.


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Old 11/13/2015, 02:41 PM   #22
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What's your tolerance level for PO4? That may influence your choice. (As it did with nitrate).

I use the Hanna ULR as my tolerance is less than .02


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Old 11/13/2015, 02:44 PM   #23
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I target under .09. I find my system does best between .04-.08. I start getting under .03 and my Fiji leather complains as does my Duncan.


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Old 11/13/2015, 06:37 PM   #24
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My Duncan has always been a good PO4 indicator of either too high, too low, or drifting down to fast. It doesn't like any of those. If it's all closed up for a length of time I know now one of those scenarios is occurring.

Like the past few days my PO4 has been in a good range (.04-.08) for the duncan as its been looking. If it closes up for a longer then normal period of time its either because the PO4 has gone over .09 or its dropping again. I don't know why my system fluctuates so much but it does. I do feed a lot but I don't run any GFO or anything to rapidly remove PO4.

I went ahead and tested PO4 as I've done several times in the past to prove my theory and so far it's been accurate.

Tonight I tested 26 on the Hanna ULR Checker converting to .08



I believe my main phosphate exports are through carbon dosing and the skimmer along with harvesting algae. Currently running a Turbo ATS.

It's fighting a heavy fish population and very heavy feeding. Pellets fed 4x per day automatically. Meaty foods fed manually 2-3x a night. And a sheet of algae once a day.

So, either over the next couple days PO4 will increase slightly or drop. Either way my Duncan is not going to be happy. lol

Here it is tonight. I've lost count on how many heads it has. It's well over 20.




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Old 11/13/2015, 08:12 PM   #25
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And here it is. My yellow Fiji leather has been acting the same way since I got it. It's either doing its normal shedding or its getting ****ed off at the higher PO4. My guess is my PO4 has already climbed a bit with a feeding of meaty foods earlier tonight after I did that Hanna test. Last feeding of pellets just happened. And I'm about to feed some more meaty foods. Then my tank will decide to kick into gear and reduce those phosphates back down in the next day or so.





I'll test my PO4 levels again in about an hour.


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