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Old 02/23/2016, 09:15 AM   #26
homer1475
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Here's some pictures of the sump and how I want to redesign it.

Overall sump setup.

They partioned off the middle and return section so they are the same size, but with the addition of the baffles in the middle section it's only 6.5" wide while the return section is 13. If I move the baffles closer to the return section(only making the return section 5" wide I can increase the fuge section to 13".



Here you can see there is the drain section which flows into the skimmer section and also out into the middle section. I want to close off the under section going into the second section and partition off the drain so it can only flow up and over a filter sock, then down into the skimmer section.

Here is the middle section with the under - over -middle section - over - under - return.

I want to remove the one over baffle coming from the skimmer section, and move over the other baffles while adding a third over baffle so I have a more traditional over - under - over - return.

I will say this sump is built like a brick isht house. Its easily 60 pounds of solid glass.


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Old 02/23/2016, 09:37 AM   #27
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I would just remove the small piece of glass in section one and have that be one large area. The skimmer will get what it needs to so the bottom being open isnt really a problem. Use some hang on sock holders or look into the rottertube (I would say socks though).

I agree with moving the last baffles over but be careful how narrow you make it. If you want your heaters and such in there you will want to test fit everything. Also look into the measurements of some of the more common pumps these days as well. If you want to upgrade pumps in the near future you dont want to have to drain a sump and move baffles. And if you are not going to run a manifold do not forget about your reactor pump(s)...


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Old 02/23/2016, 09:52 AM   #28
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Only issue with hang on filter socks is I'll have to remove the drain pipe every time I want to change a sock.

I've already looked into most modern pumps, and 5" is plenty of space and it spans the entire width of the sump so there is plenty of room for reactor pumps(not plumbing a manifold).

Sump is 16" wide front to back, so most heaters will fit with no problem. The 2 finnex 300W I have to go in there are only 10" so were good there.


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Old 02/23/2016, 10:10 AM   #29
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I wouldnt worry about the pipe being in the sock to change it. Even with mine with build in holders my top of sock dips into the water as I swap. Not a big deal honestly.

Quite frankly I am not even sure the amount I will run socks either. I might try going sockless and relying on the one small foam block I have as my mechanical.


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Old 02/24/2016, 01:25 PM   #30
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Looking forward to seeing pics of the tank


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Old 02/24/2016, 04:55 PM   #31
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I primed the stand yesterday, and like a dumba$$ I didn't sand the stand(even though I knew better), but you know how it goes with shiny new things, you just want to play with them. So the shiny faux wood sheeting they put on it doesn't hold the primer. Since I'm coming down with the flu, this build is being put off for a little longer.

I need to sand off all 3 coats of primer, then lightly sand the faux wood finish, then reprime, and paint.


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Old 02/24/2016, 04:57 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellerexpress View Post
Looking forward to seeing pics of the tank
The tank itself is in a corner of my living room stuck between my 2 couch's, so it's a little tough to move around and get pics of.


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Old 02/24/2016, 05:41 PM   #33
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Yeah I did the same with primer though only got part way through first coat when struck me.


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Old 02/25/2016, 01:28 PM   #34
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Since I'm home sick, figured I could get something done(wasn't up to sanding and repainting). So I decided to cut the baffles out of the stock sump, and get it all cleaned up for installing the baffles how I want them and to make more space for a fuge(A mandarin is the only reason my wife let me upgrade tanks).

One set removed, was super easy, way easier then I had originally thought.


Removed the panel separating the where the plumbing dumps into and the skimmer.


All baffles removed.


One thing I noticed, with the baffle between the drain and skimmer sections removed, I could put the skimmer in sideways, and moving the return baffles over I could increase my fuge section to 12".

I plan on doing drain, and skimmer section as one section, then a fuge section, then an over - under - over baffles to the return. A more traditional sump with fuge.


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Old 02/25/2016, 01:31 PM   #35
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Question:

Do I have to do an under over baffle coming into the middle section from the skimmer section to regulate water level? Or will one over baffles work?


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Old 02/29/2016, 06:53 PM   #36
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One baffle will regulate water level. Over under are just to weed out microbubbles.

Mine was socks and skimmer, one over baffle, fuge, over under over baffles, return pump.

I had the dumb idea to use thin acrylic hooked to glass. Acrylic buckled, silicone held, glass tank gave way. Fun stuff haha.

Don't know how I ended up on this thread but I did.


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Old 03/01/2016, 06:00 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nemmy View Post
One baffle will regulate water level. Over under are just to weed out microbubbles.

Mine was socks and skimmer, one over baffle, fuge, over under over baffles, return pump.

I had the dumb idea to use thin acrylic hooked to glass. Acrylic buckled, silicone held, glass tank gave way. Fun stuff haha.

Don't know how I ended up on this thread but I did.

After a bit of research, this is exactly as I have it planned. Thanks anyways.

After finally starting to feel better from the flu(haven't worked all week), I got some progress going. I completely sanded the inside of the stand(3 coats of primer came off pretty quickly with 60 grit), and got the first coat of appliance epoxy paint on. That's about all I've done beside order in some more odds and ends, and head down to the local glass shop and get baffles cut. Tomorrow I plan on a second coat and possibly a third, get my baffles installed, and maybe start working on bracing my floors.


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Old 03/02/2016, 08:44 AM   #38
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So got to work on my baffles in my sump. Decided on one big section for the skimmer and inlet pipes, one big section for a fuge and where I'll put the marine pure plates, then a over - under - over baffle section ending in a return/ATO section.

Stand with 2 coats of epoxy appliance paint.


Skimmer section baffle in place.


First over - under - over baffle in place. This is the last over baffle before the return.


Wasn't sure on the spacing between baffles, but decided on 1/2". Was originally going to do an under - over - under, but with the glass I have I decided on the reverse. I know the idea behind the last baffle being an under is to avoid running the return dry, but I fail to see how reversing the baffles will affect that. Once the middle baffle is dry, regardless of whether theres water, the return can always be pumped dry regardless of baffle selection.


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Old 03/02/2016, 09:05 AM   #39
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I believe the reason for the under going into the return section is more for bubble reduction then anything. Going over, under, over gives you 2 points of water going over a wall to cavitate and create bubbles. Going over once limits that and having that last wall that goes under negates most bubbles ESPECIALLY if you have something at the bottom of that area like media bag.


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Old 03/02/2016, 09:20 AM   #40
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Yes I understand that, but if you look at 99% of the premade sumps, they are over - under - over. So I went that route, plus it works better with the glass I have. I may stuff some filter floss in the last baffle to avoid the bubbles. Once its setup I'll decide on how it works. If I have to I'll take it apart and redo it if need be.


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Old 03/02/2016, 09:24 AM   #41
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I dont know about that one Homer. Aqueon, Trigger, PM, Vertex, Synergy, BAO, and about every other one I look at is over under not under over like you are trying to do.


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Old 03/02/2016, 09:56 AM   #42
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I think you misread, mine will be an over under over. Most sumps only have the 2 baffles, I'm simply adding the third over.


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Old 03/02/2016, 09:59 AM   #43
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No I understand but there is a reason most do not add that third baffle. Whether it be churning the water to cause microbubbles in the return chamber or to have a slight bit more water in there. There is no reason to add that final over and you are better off not doing so.


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Old 03/02/2016, 10:11 AM   #44
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Well seeing as they are already siliconed in place, they'll stay for now. If later on down the road I find problems with microbubbles, I'll simply remove the last over baffle.


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Old 03/02/2016, 10:38 AM   #45
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Well after doing some reading, I've cut the baffles out and will only do 2 baffles with them being an over under.

Only good thing was the silicone was still wet so they were easy to remove. Best to do it right the first time, instead of finding out later that I should have done it a different way, then have to cut them out and redo it the proper way.

A bonus of only doing 2 though, I can do 2" between the 2 baffles and increase the fuge section to a full 12".


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Old 03/02/2016, 11:02 AM   #46
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Sorry to be that thorn in your side but I think you will be happier this way. Easy to do it now then to have to drain a sump, disconnect plumbing, and such later down the road.


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Old 03/02/2016, 11:18 AM   #47
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For sure, thats why I did it now instead of waiting to hook it up and see if it works.

No thorn in my side. I did this build thread just for that reason, just to make sure I'm doing things right the first time around.


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Old 03/02/2016, 01:32 PM   #48
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Great start. Make sure to get that receipt....even if you don't use for tax purposes. I had to call cadlights many times and they had to just manually create one on an invoice. I guess no one cares about receipts much, so they don't care to send to everyone. I scan every receipt for any purchase, doesn't matter if its a 99 cent drink at gas station or equipment. I then enter in my neat desktop scanner for logging and categorizing. Good habit to pick up, because even receipts degrade, fade...

What are the magnetic lights you are talking about?


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Old 03/02/2016, 02:19 PM   #49
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Not magnetic lights, I bought the same exact lights as Soulpatch did for his cabinet. What I'm using are magnetic security switches(like you see on windows for a security system). The switches are either NO(normally open), or NC(normally closed), when you break the magnets you create the opposite. The apex can use these in conjunction with the breakout box to do all sorts of things. In my case, turn the cabinet lights on.

These are the switches. I didn't buy these exact ones, but you get the idea.
https://www.elvessupply.com/Honeywel...FQEGaQod60kAKg


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Old 03/03/2016, 07:32 AM   #50
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Got the stand and sump ready to go yesterday, so I'm moving the boicube at some point this morning since the new tank is going directly where the cube is located.

Not exactly sure how this is going to work out, but I hope fairly easy. I plan on draining about 15G out of it and just sliding it across the floor. I figure 15G is about as far down as I can go and still have enough room for my fish. Corals I'm not to worried about as they can live outside the water for 30 minutes or so it will take me to move it. Finger crossed! If it works the way I have it planned, I'll be posting up some pics later today with the tank sitting on the stand, and no life lost in the cube.


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