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Old 03/03/2016, 10:46 AM   #51
homer1475
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So finally got the tank set in place. Still a ton of work to do, but at least its in place.

I nixed the idea of a separate "stand" next to the tank to house my electronics and ATO reservoir as I have a coat closet directly behind the tank. I'm going to put all my electronics in there. Only thing that will be in the stand is my EB8's. Not the best idea to put the EB8's in the stand where they can be exposed to humidity, but I think its the best idea for my setup.

So without further ado, heres the tank:



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Old 03/03/2016, 10:50 AM   #52
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You can always add a small fan to the stand similar to what I did to keep air movement and really cut down on humidity. Sure it ups evap a bit in the stand but it is better for the electronics.

I have to fill my 7 gal ATO a few times a week now. 7 Gallons would have lasted me nearly 2 weeks on my nano... Come on spring and summer when my air is not so dry in the house...


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Old 03/03/2016, 11:09 AM   #53
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There is a giant hole where the plumbing comes down from the tank, so I don't think moisture will really be an issue. If it is I'll add the fans from the cube to the side of the stand, one blowing in, and one blowing out. This is the whole at the back of the stand, there is an adjoining hole on the top for the plumbing.



Also got my lights installed. Did a strip all around the top edge, and a few lines going across the top. great amount of light in there now. I do need to get a few more cable ties so they don't fall down. Thought I had a whole bag, but apparently I only had 3 left.




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Old 03/03/2016, 11:16 AM   #54
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These are aweoms to affixe the strips where needed like along the top where you need to worry about the adhesive breaking down over time in the humidity:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o01_s00


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Old 03/03/2016, 11:55 AM   #55
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Ordered. I was going to use cable staples that are plastic and nailed in, but their actually slightly more money then these clips and I like that their screws instead of nails.

Thanks again Soul.


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Old 03/03/2016, 02:18 PM   #56
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I like the lighting you chose! Thats exactly what I need, since they are out of way. I have the IO breakout box for apex. I just need the magneto thing you told me about and the nicer hidden lighting like what you did.


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Old 03/03/2016, 02:18 PM   #57
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Are you going to install an additional light for the fuge?


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Old 03/03/2016, 04:17 PM   #58
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Yes separate light for the fuge section. I just haven't decided on what yet. I'm thinking just a simple clamp lamp with a par38 bulb, their like 10$ at Lowes for holder and bulb.

The cabinet lighting you can thank Soulpatch for. It's the same lighting he used in his cabinet.

As a side note, if Soul is reading this, the lights do return back to whatever function they were left at when the power was cut. The breakout box in conjunction with an EB8, and magnetic switches works perfectly.


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Old 03/03/2016, 08:31 PM   #59
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Yeah I played with the lights and saw that but I have 3 doors on my stand so I don't want to run three switches.

Honestly I just have the apex turn them on in the morning and leave them on till later that night. That way it is always lit when I open the door. LOL. I don't think I need to worry about them going out and if they do I swap in another strip and change my course next time.

If you want a clamp light go to HD. They have an ABS one which is nice and is still only like $8


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Old 03/03/2016, 09:29 PM   #60
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Do you have any more info on those lights? I have a cabinet for the tank I am setting up with 2x 250 MHs + PC actinic, but would like to replace them with LEDs. I have no problem retrofitting some strips, but I just don't what I need to make sure and do in order to have it work for corals (intensity and spectrum-wise).


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Old 03/04/2016, 04:06 PM   #61
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Looking good. Love the overflow. May have missed it, but what kind of sump is that?


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Old 03/04/2016, 04:17 PM   #62
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I could see where 3 doors could be a waste of the breakout box. Can you have 2 breakout boxes?

The sump is the stock sump from SCA they send with their PNP systems. I just cut the baffles out and redesigned it to work better for my application.

EDIT:

Yes you can have more then one breakout box, but it requires a pm1 or pm2 expansion module for the second DIN8 plug.


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Old 03/05/2016, 04:47 PM   #63
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So I've run across an issue in plumbing.

My return can only go through the middle hole, which leaves my emergency either having to go into the return section of the sump, or I can go straight down in the fuge section, or I can use flexible hose all the way to the bulkhead for the return?
My problem is I cannot pass one hard pipe through another.

Here is my first attempt, then realized my return has to be in the middle hole.


Any thoughts or suggestions?


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:13 PM   #64
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I put my emergency drain going down to return pump section 3


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:15 PM   #65
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Flip sump around...?


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:16 PM   #66
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Why do you need it middle? I return on the key in my setup. I just t the return in the overflow to maintain dual returns


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:18 PM   #67
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Going to fuge doesn't seem like too big of deal, if it's only in emergency?


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:21 PM   #68
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http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2519131

Cadlights guy thread I follow his emergency going to center is nice. I don't think I see the negative of emergency drain into any section.


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:29 PM   #69
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There is no negative to drain into that section though the plumbing won't look as clean. That is why I would send return up the right and t it off on the overflow


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:33 PM   #70
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I have to use the middle hole as that is the way the system is designed. I cannot T off the return and still use the overflow the way it was designed, it already is T'ed off to 2 return lines in the overflow. I have it figured out, I could do it the way I orginally had it planned out, but I really don't want to use elbows if I can avoid it.

I just used an extra 45 and passed the return in front of the emergency. I just need to go get another 45 to direct it to the pump.


Also not anywhere near as clean looking.


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:35 PM   #71
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You can do it however you want in the overflow. You need to switch to new plumbing anyway as the SC stuff is metric.

If my overflow is still t too be 2 lines out the overflow and I went in side bullhead


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:39 PM   #72
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This is why I have to have the return in the middle. With a T already it takes up the entire overflow and there isn't room to move it to one side or the other.




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Old 03/05/2016, 05:42 PM   #73
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That is their plumbing which is to small to work with 1 inch bulkhead.
And yes you can have a t




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Old 03/05/2016, 05:43 PM   #74
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After thinking about it, and doing some more reading(apparently it doesn't matter where the E drain goes), I'm just going to dump the E drain into the return compartment.

It will make it look a lot cleaner that way.


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Old 03/05/2016, 05:44 PM   #75
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No matter what you do you still can't use the SC return plumbing. It is metric and won't work with the standard bulkhead


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