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Old 05/26/2016, 02:54 PM   #26
whyamisofly
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Come have a
PM me your address/phone number again and I will see what I can do!


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Old 05/28/2016, 02:52 PM   #27
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PM me your address/phone number again and I will see what I can do!
Will do.


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Old 05/28/2016, 03:02 PM   #28
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Painting the Back

I haven't actually ever painted the back of one of my tanks. I have no problem growing layers of Coralline algae and I won't be scraping the back of this tank so I don't expect this to remain blue for too long.

I had some time yesterday after being out of town for a while so I decided to paint this one. I used a paint and primer latex from Behr. It is color coded "Deep River". It took 3 coats. I started with a roller for the first two coats then used a brush once the paint had a surface to stick to and did a heavy last coat. I allowed about an hour between each coat. If you do it too soon you will ruin the layer underneath it, it doesn't stick to glass really well but should last many years, and if I ever do choose to take it off it will come off easily.

Cleaned with rubbing alcohol.


Start of coat 2 (on the left) and coat 1 (on the right)


After coat 3 and dry.


A dirty view from the front side. I don't plan on doing much cleaning of the tank until it has water in it, this should reduce the risk of unnecessary scratches.


Next up... moving the thing into place, a little stand modification, and placing a pond liner under the stand.


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Old 05/29/2016, 08:28 AM   #29
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Awesome tank Brother! I am tagging along.


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Old 05/29/2016, 05:24 PM   #30
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Awesome tank Brother! I am tagging along.
Thanks Jack!


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Old 05/29/2016, 05:40 PM   #31
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Moving the Tank into Position and Modifying Stand

When we moved the tank into the house we got it into the door but no further. We were tired and it would take another set of jigs to get it in place. Nothing about this tank is easy to move around! Putting it into place would have to wait for another day, that day was yesterday. It took 3 trips to the hardware store and ended about 30 minutes after midnight.

The stand has these stupid skids on them made from 1/4" steel plate. They stick out 6 inches from the side of the stand...


While I'm sure they would work great for skiing they would surely make skinning this tank a real pain! I didn't want a 6"+ ledge around the tank so they had to go. I got out the sawzall and a Diable Extreme metal cutting blade. Before cutting them off I needed to get the tank into the air and move it lengthwise across the room. I used two 8 foot 4x6s spanning depth wise under the main I-beams and the 4 hydraulic carts to get it in the air.



...and blocked it up to give the bit room to work.



I then cut off all 4 of the tabs sticking out the ends.




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Old 05/29/2016, 05:52 PM   #32
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Continued...

Once the tabs were cut off and the area cleaned up I needed to setup another jig to move the tank against the wall. Since I wanted to slide a sheet of ply (something to shim against) and a pond liner (moisture barrier) under the stand I couldn't actually put the carts under the stand. Since I wanted to put the tank all the way against the wall this also made that not an option.

I made a frame out of two 12 foot 2x8s that sat inside the main 8 foot I-beams. To keep them from slipping out of the I-beams two boards were cut to size and large deck screws were used to secure it all together. I clamped the middle of the 12 footers to keep them from possibly popping out but I think that was probably not necessary. It worked great!





Once the tank was back into the air a buddy helped me move it into it's final resting place. It's really easy to move once on the carts. I ended up giving a foot of extra room on the right side by the door. It looked better than centered because of the door.





Getting ready to cook dinner but afterwards I am hoping to do a little tank cleanup and install the glass plates over the holes that were previously used for a large closed loop.


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Old 05/29/2016, 06:51 PM   #33
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Nice job on the cutting! I am jealous of the tank size and possibilities.


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Old 05/29/2016, 07:17 PM   #34
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Looks great Mark! Can't wait to see it wet


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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Old 05/29/2016, 11:29 PM   #35
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Thanks guys! Jack, the more I gaze into the tank the more options I see. It has great dimensions! I ran across it by chance... Threw my 6x4x2 acrylic up on craigslist and found out about the 600 from the buyer the next day.

The washer broke, my step stool is too short, and my ladder is too tall . No point pushing against the grain... Postponing glass work until tomorrow evening.


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Last edited by tkeracer619; 05/29/2016 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 05/29/2016, 11:39 PM   #36
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Is there going to be enough room for the lighting?


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Old 06/05/2016, 04:50 PM   #37
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Is there going to be enough room for the lighting?
Sure is! There is 17" from tank to ceiling. I need about 12" for the lighting. Not a whole lot of wiggle room but enough to manage .

Cleaning up the tank now. Almost ready to plug the closed loop holes! Should be done by dinner


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Old 06/05/2016, 10:12 PM   #38
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I finally got around to getting the glass plates to cover up the closed loop holes in. Installing them was the easiest part, prepping the areas took the most time. The previous owner installed sch40 bulkheads in sh80 holes and used silicone to fill the gaps. It made it a real challenge to get the bulkheads out.

First step was to clean up the tank and get rid of loose sand.



There are a total of 6 holes. One large one for a 3" bulkhead and five for 2" bulkheads.





I used razor blades, steel wool, acetone, and dust free towels to make sure the glass was absolutely clean. Any debris is on the other side of the glass...



I have to give Glass Cages credit where credit is due. After getting a $500 quote from one local supplier and another local supplier getting angry with me that I couldn't use half inch glass I turned to glass cages. They were very polite, had a quote to me in an hour, and shipped the glass within 2 hours. I ordered it Friday at 2pm their time and had it on Tuesday! It cost around $160 shipped. The glass has good edges and was packaged really well.





I used a single bead of Momentive RTV108 about 1" from the edge of the plate and pressed them in place. I'll go back in a couple weeks and put a bead around the edges. I don't think it's necessary but will probably still do it.




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Old 06/06/2016, 07:08 AM   #39
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That's pretty crazy that you weren't able to get a few simple pieces of glass cut locally. Glad that you ended up getting what you needed though. Some companies need to realize that customer service still goes a long way!!


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Old 06/06/2016, 12:13 PM   #40
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Yea, it was crazy. I've used them both before and they were reasonable. This time I was a bit put off. I doubt I'll ever contact the 2nd supplier again. The lady actually yelled at me .


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Old 07/17/2016, 06:10 PM   #41
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Update?

My tank is down, trying to live vicariously through your adventure.


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Old 07/18/2016, 02:39 PM   #42
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Why is your tank down Jack?
Mark, this is looking good buddy. Can't wait to see it progress along.

Corey


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Old 08/15/2016, 03:19 PM   #43
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Very slow progression. Crunch time at work

I did find a few blemishes in the glass that I have been polishing out but nothing in that department happens fast

Bummer Jack!


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Old 08/16/2016, 12:55 AM   #44
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Spent some time going ove the plumbing tonight.

This is a challenge but I think I have a good solution.

It seems odd to me but the overflows each have one 2" sch40 bulkhead and two 1.5" sch40 bulkheads. The holes in the bottom of the tank were for sch80 bulkheads. Figured with these massive overflows they would have sch80 holes... Anyhow... I'll plumb two 2" drains and combine two 1.5" into a 2" pipe as an emergency drain. I'll run a single 1.5" or 2" return.

I have 3 sets of pumps to choose from for returns... One to be used as the return and one to keep on the shelf as a backup. The contenders are...

Sequence 4600SEQ22
Reeflo Hammerhead
Iwaki MD100-RLT

Since the sump is in a basement, the tank is roughly 16 to 18 feet above the sump with several bends, and roughly 30 horizontal feet I think these are all good options.

The benefit of the Iwaki is they are quiet mag drive pumps, the downside is they use more power for less flow. If I'm lucky I'll get 3x turnover.

The benefit of the Sequence is the 5x turnover and lower energy use. Downside is they don't exactly appear to be made anymore. I need to call and talk to them about replacement parts.

The Hammerheads are the older style/not gold and they are damaged. The motors don't spin freely and need to be rebuilt, they may be trash. Years ago they were on a setup that had a backup gen and would freewheel backwards in the downtime before backup power kicked in. The weekly testing thrashed them and they no longer spin freely. They have been laying around for years collecting dust and since I doubt it's a bearing issue my guess is they will continue to collect dust. Need to pull the motor apart for a visual.

Boring without pics but I'm on the phone typing this out and am not sure I want to go there

Speaking of pics, I picked up one of those professional grade dslr cameras so hopefully I'll learn to use it and get some good pics from here on out!


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Old 08/16/2016, 10:29 AM   #45
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There is literally nothing inside of a typical motor (AC). No brushes, no slip rings etc. The only thing that would stop a motor from turning is bearings, or a bent shaft, which would require extreme torque, something a simple AC motor is not really capable of doing.

Now, if the motor was on a circuit that would allow 7x rated current (locked rotor) for an extended time the rotor may have warped, if this is the case then it is junk.

It is probably just bearings.


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Old 08/16/2016, 11:06 AM   #46
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So I have to ask..What are the advantages of not running the closed loop with alternating current and running mp40's and 60's? I would think that cleaning powerbeads every month(ish) would be more time consuming and expensive to maintain than a closed loop with a alternating current device? Are you planning to build a new overflow box now that you're going to use the original boxes as dry boxes? Bean animal?


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Old 08/16/2016, 10:25 PM   #47
tkeracer619
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It is probably just bearings.
That would be awesome if that is how it playes out. Reeflo is about a 1.5 hour drive for me.


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Old 08/16/2016, 10:38 PM   #48
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So I have to ask..What are the advantages of not running the closed loop with alternating current and running mp40's and 60's? I would think that cleaning powerbeads every month(ish) would be more time consuming and expensive to maintain than a closed loop with a alternating current device? Are you planning to build a new overflow box now that you're going to use the original boxes as dry boxes? Bean animal?
Power consumption and imo better flow with the vortechs. I have used closed loops a bunch of times (currently have one on my bta system) but for this size of a tank I prefer powerheads. I don't find maintenance to be an issue on either method.

The dry boxes will go inside the current overflows and will leave plenty of overflow real estate for them to function as normal. I'm old fashioned so I don't know if I'll run a bean, probably just a herbie.


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Old 08/17/2016, 08:41 AM   #49
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Is this thing done yet?

I've got some beer to bring to you when you can sit down and enjoy the tank!


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Old 08/18/2016, 11:47 AM   #50
tkeracer619
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Is this thing done yet?

I've got some beer to bring to you when you can sit down and enjoy the tank!
I wish. Every day I work on it a little bit, unfortunately most of that work goes on in my head .

My current checklist consists of...
Polish Glass Defects (Cerium Oxide )
Move Washer/Dryer
Move Fish Room Door 4ft to the left.
Epoxy Fish Room Floor
Run 20a & 15a Electrical Circuits to tank.
Run 3x20a Circuits to fish room.
Install Air Exchanger in Fishroom/Basement (humidity control)
Install Shop Sink in Fishroom
Fix Hammerheads
Standpipes, Drain, Return Plumbing
Plumb Skimmer
Fresh test Tank
Built Light Rack
Fill with RODI
Add Salt
Add Sand
Add Rock Vat in Fish Room
Run skimmer and GFO
Start to move LR from 360 Display
Move Sunburst Anemone Farm to Fish Room
Move Assorted BTA Farm into individual 20L systems in Fish Room.
Transfer Lighting from 360 Display and Assorted BTA Farm
Transfer Remaining Rubbermaid/Sump Liverock, ATO, Calcium Reactor, and Biopellets to Fish Room
Transfer Live Rock and Livestock from 360 Display
Move 4x4x12 Frag tank to basement.
Remove 360gal Display and its Remnants from 600gal Display room.
Build Dry Boxes and Install Vortechs
Cabinetry


Realistically I see a potential for a sweet Superbowl party


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