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Old 09/22/2016, 06:51 PM   #1
K-Dubbs
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Getting back into hobby with Nuvo Fusion 10g

So I've been thinking about it for a while but finally pulled the trigger and bought the Nuvo Fusion 10g premium starter kit to get back into the hobby with.

It has been about 7 years or so since I last had a reef tank (65 gal).

Once I have the tank physically I will try a few different areas in the room to place it. If I don't like the way it looks on any of the furniture I have then I may consider getting a custom stand for it, or something else.

A few of my starter questions for getting all the necessary equipment:

1.) What is the best way to test exsisting furniture for proper weight handling (I'm guessing with all the water and equipment it will be from 100-150lbs of weight).

2.) The kit comes with lighting (SKKYE Light 18 watt LED clamp) which after doing a bit of research I have noticed conflicting reviews. All I plan on keeping coral-wise are softies and maybe an LPS or two towards the top. Will this be enough lighting for these corals?

3.) I'm thinking of adding the Jebao WP-10 for extra flow. I considered this power head because of the cost. I have seen some really expensive others, are they worth the extra cost? Will I need the extra flow?

4.) I purchased the Ghost skimmer to go in the back for filtration. What else should I put in for filtration. There is a 3-stage filter column with removable media basket. Is it worth trying to grow some macro algae in here? Or stick with mechanical filtration?

5.) Any recommended heaters that will fit in the back area, I'm assuming most people are putting them in the compartment with the return pump?

6.) Liverock. When I started my last tank I did a combo of about 60% dry rock as the base and 40% liverock seed to spread. Is this do-able or because of the small size should I just go with all live-rock? If my LFS options are limited, how do I get good looking liverock for aquascaping without seeing it first?

7.) Water testing kits. As I have been out of the hobby for quite some time. What are the best kits? I'm looking for something that is accurate but easy to use.

I've started thinking about livestock but its so hard to make a decision when you are only allowed a small bio-load. I'm thinking about doing a pair of ocellaris or perculas due to their hardieness as well as their tank-bred avalability. As far as corals go I really like the color variety of mushrooms and zoas but if anyone has any unique suggestions on softies I'm all ears!

I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes on. I am in no rush to complete things as patience tends to be the best resource in reefkeeping. If anyone has any experience with this tank setup as well any of your experience or pics would be great to hear/see.

Thanks,
K-Dubbs


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Old 09/22/2016, 07:19 PM   #2
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Welcome back. I just started my 5 gallon evo and still have my 40 gallon breeder. I have some Rasta zoanthids that are awesome. I also have some hairy mushrooms that are pretty cool for their price. If you can do LPS I highly recommend a bleeding Apple scolymia. They are a bit pricey but are really awesome. Maze brains are cool too.

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Old 09/22/2016, 07:26 PM   #3
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Thanks reeflover for the suggestions, defenitely some bright looking corals! I defenitely have time to make my suggestions and will do so carefully as I don't have the room for everything I want so must be selective!


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Old 09/22/2016, 07:30 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by K-Dubbs View Post
So I've been thinking about it for a while but finally pulled the trigger and bought the Nuvo Fusion 10g premium starter kit to get back into the hobby with.

It has been about 7 years or so since I last had a reef tank (65 gal).

Once I have the tank physically I will try a few different areas in the room to place it. If I don't like the way it looks on any of the furniture I have then I may consider getting a custom stand for it, or something else.

A few of my starter questions for getting all the necessary equipment:

1.) What is the best way to test exsisting furniture for proper weight handling (I'm guessing with all the water and equipment it will be from 100-150lbs of weight).
- As lame as it sounds, if you can sit on it and it is stable, I wouldn't worry about the tank being on it. I bought the Coralife Biocube 14g stand for mine, and it works perfectly with plenty of storage. You may want to look into ordering one -- I got mine from MarineDepot, and I think they are on sale right now.

2.) The kit comes with lighting (SKKYE Light 18 watt LED clamp) which after doing a bit of research I have noticed conflicting reviews. All I plan on keeping coral-wise are softies and maybe an LPS or two towards the top. Will this be enough lighting for these corals?
- I think that light should be fine for softies and a few LPS high up, as you described, but I went with the AI Prime HD so I can't really speak to the performance of the Skyye light.

3.) I'm thinking of adding the Jebao WP-10 for extra flow. I considered this power head because of the cost. I have seen some really expensive others, are they worth the extra cost? Will I need the extra flow?
- I had Jebao's in my previous tanks, and they were alright. After a few months the impeller started sticking, but I was still able to make it work. For my Nuvo 10g I am using the Vortech Mp10QD which is probably one of the expensive ones you are talking about. I went with this because it has outstanding reviews, and is known as one of the best in quality and reliability. I do not regret it.

4.) I purchased the Ghost skimmer to go in the back for filtration. What else should I put in for filtration. There is a 3-stage filter column with removable media basket. Is it worth trying to grow some macro algae in here? Or stick with mechanical filtration?
- I did not end up getting the skimmer, but I am on the fence about it now. I have heard mixed reviews, so I am curious as to how your experience goes. I have also heard that the amount of chaeto we could fit in the small area will not be enough to make a significant impact on our nutrient levels. I am currently running filter floss, chemipure blue, and just ordered purigen for the 3rd section. You should ABSOLUTELY purchase the InTank media rack for this tank. The stock one is crap, and mine came with a filter sock instead. The InTank is worth every penny.

5.) Any recommended heaters that will fit in the back area, I'm assuming most people are putting them in the compartment with the return pump?
- I am running one of the Neotherm 50w heaters (good for 12g), and have it in the 2nd chamber, but I don't have the skimmer or fuge box, so my 2nd chamber is completely empty other than my heater.

6.) Liverock. When I started my last tank I did a combo of about 60% dry rock as the base and 40% liverock seed to spread. Is this do-able or because of the small size should I just go with all live-rock? If my LFS options are limited, how do I get good looking liverock for aquascaping without seeing it first?
- I took rock from an established tank, so I had all live rock from the get go and bought Aragalive Special Grade Reef Sand from MarineDepot. I didn't even register a cycle. If I were you, I would just get all live rock, since you are only buying 7-8lbs of it, it won't break the bank and will get your tank going a lot faster. Other than LFS, I don't really consider shipments of Live Rock to be "live", because there is so much dieoff during shipping, but people throughout ReefCentral love TBS live rock (Tampa Bay Saltwater).

7.) Water testing kits. As I have been out of the hobby for quite some time. What are the best kits? I'm looking for something that is accurate but easy to use.
- I have always and will always trust Salifert. You can go ahead and use API for ammonia checking during the cycle, as it will never be used again, but for all your important levels go with Salifert or get a Hanna checker. Use a refractometer for salinity, and a pH meter for pH if you can swing the $.


I've started thinking about livestock but its so hard to make a decision when you are only allowed a small bio-load. I'm thinking about doing a pair of ocellaris or perculas due to their hardieness as well as their tank-bred avalability. As far as corals go I really like the color variety of mushrooms and zoas but if anyone has any unique suggestions on softies I'm all ears!
- I have 2 B&W clowns, a yellow watchman goby, and a pistol shrimp. As far as corals go the sky is the limit... See something you think looks cool, buy it!

I'm sure I'll have more questions as time goes on. I am in no rush to complete things as patience tends to be the best resource in reefkeeping. If anyone has any experience with this tank setup as well any of your experience or pics would be great to hear/see.

Thanks,
K-Dubbs
First of all, welcome back. I have recently set up a Nuvo 10g myself, so we will be in this together, hopefully we can share our experiences and learn from each other throughout. You can see my thread at the link below:
Ssick92's IM Nuvo 10g Nano Reef Build Thread

I am going to try to address all your points -- see my comments above in BOLD.

Good luck with the tank, make sure to post pictures so we can see what you're doing with your tank. And remember to be patient!


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Old 09/22/2016, 08:32 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ReefLover1230 View Post
Welcome back. I just started my 5 gallon evo and still have my 40 gallon breeder. I have some Rasta zoanthids that are awesome. I also have some hairy mushrooms that are pretty cool for their price. If you can do LPS I highly recommend a bleeding Apple scolymia. They are a bit pricey but are really awesome. Maze brains are cool too.
I just started an Evo 5 gallon. Are you using the stock lights? I measured 40 par on the sandbed with them.


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Old 09/22/2016, 08:34 PM   #6
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I just started an Evo 5 gallon. Are you using the stock lights? I measured 40 par on the sandbed with them.
Yes I am using the stock lights but all the coral I mentioned is in my 40 gallon

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Old 09/23/2016, 08:59 AM   #7
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Old 09/23/2016, 12:25 PM   #8
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Ikea expedite cubes work well as stands for IM10s or smaller.
I didn't care for the lights at my LFS and went Nanobox
I started with a RW-4 with the 12V mod (half's the power) and it worked well. I have upgraded to an MP10, but it is trickier to get flow right.
Second the intank media basket. Top notch quality. I run filter floss and chemipure nano in mine.
I like the ghost skimmer. I ran it in vinegar for about a day, rinsed and it only took 3 days to a week to break in
I would recommend no livestock at all, but all dead rock and dr tims bacteria with ammonia dosing. Keeps pests away
Red Sea and API are still good tests kits for the nitrogen cycle

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Old 09/23/2016, 07:15 PM   #9
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Thanks all for the responses! I will defenitely look into these items when I get a chance. I was having trouble finding the Intank media basket, does anyone have a link?

Once the tank arrives I will try it in a few spots throughout the room and post a few pictures.


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Old 09/23/2016, 07:20 PM   #10
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Thanks all for the responses! I will defenitely look into these items when I get a chance. I was having trouble finding the Intank media basket, does anyone have a link?

Once the tank arrives I will try it in a few spots throughout the room and post a few pictures.
I got mine on Amazon for just under $50.

Link: InTank Media Basket Nuvo 10g

Edit: Hope I'm allowed to post links? If it gets taken down just search Innovative Marine InTank in Amazon and it should be the first one that pops up.


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Old 09/24/2016, 12:23 PM   #11
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I'll defenitely get that inTank basket, I watched a tutorial video on it and it looks nice. I haven't really done much research into the different filtration media. I'll have to look into the chemi pure and purigen.

I've seen mixed reviews on the substrate in terms of color. I'm trying to decide between your typical white/pink color or the black. A lot of people say the black gets dirty too easy but also makes the corals pop.

I'll have to see what I can find in terms of nice live rock shapes at the LFS store when it comes time for that. Or maybe I can find some that are larger that look like I could break down into smaller pieces that would work for some nice aquascaping.

I'm still debating on the powerhead, it just seems like a lot of $$ to drop. Maybe I will go lower priced for now and upgrade down the road like I do with my computer.

One thing I noticed after browsing your tank post ssick92 is that you are using an auto-top off. I hadn't even thought about that. I haven't had a smaller tank before and I never needed one. Is the evaporation really high on your tank?


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Old 09/24/2016, 11:27 PM   #12
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Recieved the tank today in the mail. Unboxed and on the area I think I will be keeping it. I took a few pictures.


no light


with light


with starfire



I have to figure something out for the stand. It is plenty sturdy and spacious, however the top has bumps on it from water damage on the wood. The padding on the bottom of the tank helps with this but I'm still worried about pressure points. I may have to do some handywork and sand down the top or something. I'll have to put some sort of mat down underneath the tank as well


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Old 09/25/2016, 12:25 AM   #13
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And with the extra stuff out of the tank:



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Old 09/25/2016, 08:57 AM   #14
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After some thought I will be changing the location of the tank. While the nightstand works, I have a better location in mind and I will just have to decide on a stand or other furniture to use as storage.


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Old 09/25/2016, 09:19 AM   #15
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For those who are interested I have a few pictures of my old 65 gallon which I miss dearly. It was the most expensive learning project ever getting into the hobby with back in the day but I don't regret one second of it!

 photo Tank2.jpg

 photo tank3.jpg

 photo tank6.jpg

 photo tank13.jpg

 photo tank21.jpg

 photo tank22.jpg

 photo tank8.jpg


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Old 09/25/2016, 11:04 AM   #16
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Corkwood does great for those pressure points under the tank. And if you wan to put it back on the night stand you can get a piece big enough to cover the top.


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Old 09/26/2016, 01:37 AM   #17
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I'll defenitely get that inTank basket, I watched a tutorial video on it and it looks nice. I haven't really done much research into the different filtration media. I'll have to look into the chemi pure and purigen.

I've seen mixed reviews on the substrate in terms of color. I'm trying to decide between your typical white/pink color or the black. A lot of people say the black gets dirty too easy but also makes the corals pop.

I'll have to see what I can find in terms of nice live rock shapes at the LFS store when it comes time for that. Or maybe I can find some that are larger that look like I could break down into smaller pieces that would work for some nice aquascaping.

I'm still debating on the powerhead, it just seems like a lot of $$ to drop. Maybe I will go lower priced for now and upgrade down the road like I do with my computer.

One thing I noticed after browsing your tank post ssick92 is that you are using an auto-top off. I hadn't even thought about that. I haven't had a smaller tank before and I never needed one. Is the evaporation really high on your tank?
I run poly filter floss (also from intank) and 2x chemipure nano in mine. The filter floss I change weekly and the chemipure I alternate which gets swapped out every month. 2nd chamber even months, 3rd odd months. Intank sends you some pretty large sheets and once you cut it down to squares for the first chamber it'll last a ling time.

Let you coral decide what powerhead you are going to use perhaps?

Tunze and Autoaqua both make autotop-offs and they are great for stability in the tank... and going away for the weekend. I use a rubbermaid cereal container as my ato reservoir and fill it every 3 weeks or so.

Now for liverock... I personally recommend skipping liverock and the possible nuisances that come with it. Quality dead rock that you can aquascape till your heart is content using 2 part to hold the rocks together is my preference. What about cycling you might ask? I like Dr. Tim's one and only and the ammonia chloride to cycle the tank. It takes longer to turn that pretty purple of corraline, but coral covers that all up anyways in the end!

I started mine at the end of June


and as of last week...
DSC_5365 by Keith D, on Flickr


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Old 09/26/2016, 06:12 AM   #18
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Very Nice vangvace. Thanks for the tips. I love all the acans! I really like the idea of going with dry rock so I can aquascape how I like. The cycle will take longer but I think it will be worth it to make the layout interesting. Will be looking into the auto top offs once I get a stand figured out.


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Old 09/27/2016, 01:24 AM   #19
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Actually the cycle is quicker because there isn't the die-off that comes from liverock in my limited experience and quite a bit of reading. I did buy a pod culture and green water after the cycle to kick off some microverts. They'll also come naturally with your corals too of course.


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Old 09/28/2016, 03:30 PM   #20
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I'll defenitely get that inTank basket, I watched a tutorial video on it and it looks nice. I haven't really done much research into the different filtration media. I'll have to look into the chemi pure and purigen.

I've seen mixed reviews on the substrate in terms of color. I'm trying to decide between your typical white/pink color or the black. A lot of people say the black gets dirty too easy but also makes the corals pop.

I'll have to see what I can find in terms of nice live rock shapes at the LFS store when it comes time for that. Or maybe I can find some that are larger that look like I could break down into smaller pieces that would work for some nice aquascaping.

I'm still debating on the powerhead, it just seems like a lot of $$ to drop. Maybe I will go lower priced for now and upgrade down the road like I do with my computer.

One thing I noticed after browsing your tank post ssick92 is that you are using an auto-top off. I hadn't even thought about that. I haven't had a smaller tank before and I never needed one. Is the evaporation really high on your tank?
Just saw this...

But yes IMO an auto top off system is an absolute MUST for a tank this small. Salinity swings are magnified in such small tanks because there isn't a ton of water to begin with, and as water evaporates the salinity rises quickly. With larger tanks it takes more evaporation to have the same effect so it might not be as critical.

I use the Tunze Osmolator Nano -- there are some cheaper alternatives but Tunze is known as one of the best. In my previous tanks I used the JBJ ATO system with an aqualifter for the pump. Worked well enough but was going to take up too much room in my small stand.

I use a 1 gallon cereal container for my ATO reservoir as well, and it needs to be refilled about weekly.


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Old 09/28/2016, 03:48 PM   #21
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Actually the cycle is quicker because there isn't the die-off that comes from liverock in my limited experience and quite a bit of reading. I did buy a pod culture and green water after the cycle to kick off some microverts. They'll also come naturally with your corals too of course.
This isn't true. When using dry rock, the bacteria needs to grow and build great enough numbers to convert all the ammonia that would be created in the tank. Using live rock shortcuts this process because the bacteria is already in large enough numbers in the rock. The amount of die-off is negligible unless the rock stays out of water for like 2+ hours.

If you can get live rock from a quality source, I would go this route over dry rock (but that is just my opinion). Everyone always talks about the "pests" that come on live rock, but nobody ever brings up the fact that live rock introduces many beneficial hitchhikers (bristleworms, feather dusters, sponges, etc.).

I used 100% live rock from an established in my tank (8lbs) and didn't even register a cycle.


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Old 09/28/2016, 05:41 PM   #22
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Out of curiousity, have you done a dry rock cycle? Understand how ammonia dosing works? The bacteria reproduces much faster than you might believe, but your experiences differ from mine and that is ok.

Beneficial but not necessary hitchhikers, some of which will come via frags and coral introduction anyway. Is it worth the possible pests, unwanted algae, and unknowns with live rock out of the gate? That is for each of us to decide with every new build.


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Old 10/06/2016, 10:46 AM   #23
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Did some shopping around, haven't found anything that I like for a stand, probably going to break down and get the one that is on sale on marinedepot.

I've done some browsing at a store near me that carries a variety of tank raised clowns, going to see about getting some in the color variations I like. Looking at either gladiator or black ice snowflake.


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Old 10/06/2016, 11:13 AM   #24
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This isn't true. When using dry rock, the bacteria needs to grow and build great enough numbers to convert all the ammonia that would be created in the tank. Using live rock shortcuts this process because the bacteria is already in large enough numbers in the rock. The amount of die-off is negligible unless the rock stays out of water for like 2+ hours.

If you can get live rock from a quality source, I would go this route over dry rock (but that is just my opinion). Everyone always talks about the "pests" that come on live rock, but nobody ever brings up the fact that live rock introduces many beneficial hitchhikers (bristleworms, feather dusters, sponges, etc.).

I used 100% live rock from an established in my tank (8lbs) and didn't even register a cycle.
I'm currently cycling my 10 gallon nano with uncured gulf live rock. Had a couple of sponges and barnacles die on me giving an ammonia spike, but it's been a week and a half and my levels are starting to drop. No more dead stuff and the LIFE is amazing. Copepods, amphipods, snails, a hermit, tunicates, feather duster worms, encrusting sponges, macro algae, spionid worms, limpets, different colors of corraline, and baby cup corals. I also got a harmless little sea slug that has been eating pods, a pistol shrimp that I've only heard, and one or two TINY gorilla crabs that I'll trap out eventually and throw in my fuge. And that's just all I can see with my eyes. The microbial biodiversity must be insane.

Perhaps you could cycle with dead rock and then add a few pounds of live to populate the tank. I can see why you'd want to go the dead route, but good live rock will add so much more to your tank. Just my two cents


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Old 10/13/2016, 02:35 AM   #25
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That was my original plan professor sweat. A base of dry rock to do aquascaping the way I'd like and a few smaller pieces of live rock to seed the tank with.


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