anyone rebuild a ATI power module?

Flexin5 · 09/28/2016, 08:06 PM

hey Reefcentral,

i have a ATI 48" 54w x 8 powermodule non led that was hung over my new custom tank. things were going great until one day i woke up, went downstairs to check on the tank and was greeted with water all over the floor, and my nice ATI light completely submerged. looks like the hanging kit gave way. i'm not sure when it fell in, all of my fish are still alive so i think that it was off when it decided to take a dip, then when the apex tried to turn it on in the morning it just tripped.

I decided to fully rebuild the unit, so Keith at ATI who has been super helpful shipped me out all new ballasts, reflectors, fans, adapters, bulb connectors, pretty much everything.

my question to anyone who's rebuilt them is, the small grey connectors that tie in 3 wires, are they anything specific? or would a regular twist connector do? i did open one up, you can't really re-use them if you do, and all it seemed like it was, was a small strip of metal to connect the 3 wires. any advice would be great

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 08:18 PM

I have had my fair share of PM building. I built a 12x39 PM from 2 8bulbs. The grey connectors are re-usable. If you pull and twist the wire from left to right the wire will release. I suppose a wire nut would work for sure. I would use compressed air to blow out all the connectors to avoid corrosion.

Kc3

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 08:28 PM

It's pretty simple just look. LOL!

Kc3

Flexin5 · 09/28/2016, 08:31 PM

woah there you go LOL

thanks for the post, one question for you if you don't mind.

the reason why i was going to change out those grey square connectors is because they are all blue and corroded from being in the salt water that i just don't trust them. one of the brown wires actually snapped off.

do you know which black wires coming from the junction box (6 black wires i believe) go to which square grey connectors? i just don't know which grey connector that brown wire came off of.

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 09:03 PM

I have to look back at my notes if I have them. I will also look through my pics. Stand by. Lol.

Kc3

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 10:01 PM

Ok so Give me a min to refresh my memory.

Kc3

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 10:02 PM

Ok I took one of my black boxes apart to look inside because I didnt save any of my notes on this. Here we go....................

If you open the black junction box there is 7 wires if I am not mistaken and they have tiny white numbers printed on them all but the ground(green wires). I will list them to my knowledge.

1. Black/power for one set of T5's 2 bulb or 6 bulbs I'm not sure
2. White/Common for the same set as above
3. White/Common for the other set of bulbs
4. Black/hot for the other set of bulbs
5. Fan wire Power or ground I'm not sure. See if fans blow into fixture. If not reverse the wires.
6. Fan wire see above.
7 Green wire turns to a Yellow with green tracer at junction.

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 10:07 PM

Shameless plug and proof I made it work.

Kc3

kc350twin · 09/28/2016, 10:14 PM

Now the fan wires change color if memory serves me. Inside the fixture they are they are brown and grey. What is Power and what is ground I don't know off the top of my head (it is midnight where I am and cannot take it apart at the moment). These are low voltage and can be switched easily without damage. They Blow into the fixture.

The Black and White wires (1-4) will require a little effort. You need to trace them and see how many they connect to. One set will have two bulbs and the other will connect to 6 bulbs in your case. ( in my fixture one set will connect to 4 bulbs and the other to 8 bulbs) I hope that makes sense.

As for the grey connectors I have yet to find a source for the replacements. I believe they are a Euro/German quick connector and wire nuts are used in the USA. I'm sure ATI can find out where to get them. If not I see no reason why a wire nut is not as good but definitely not as fast/efficient as their quick connects.

Hope it helps
Kc3

Flexin5 · 09/28/2016, 10:34 PM

Wow that is an awesome fixture! That must have taken some work to do and I just changed out 4 ballasts lol

Thanks so much for the info, that's exactly what I've been looking for, I'm into cars and have done electrical on them so I was hoping for a wiring diagram but I couldn't find one, your info explains it perfectly, thank you! I'm changing out the bulb connectors as we speak then I can put some power through it, hopefully it doesn't blow up

gus6464 · 09/28/2016, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kc350twin

Shameless plug and proof I made it work.

Kc3

How hard was it to decouple the sections on the PM and put them together?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Flexin5 · 09/28/2016, 11:39 PM

SWEET!!

Kc3 thanks for the help! I used the same junction box, I have a new one but if the old one is working then I'll just leave it instead of re doing all the grey connectors. I think that now that I have everything apart I may run the reefbrite wires through and down the same wiring sleeve as the ATI for a bit cleaner look.

kc350twin · 09/29/2016, 09:46 AM

Decoupling the PM is easy. There are metal clips on the ends and screws in the middle.

Kc3

kc350twin · 09/29/2016, 10:03 AM

I can't believe I forgot about this thread I started. Duh. It's a little late but here ya go.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2564730

Flexin5 · 09/30/2016, 04:05 PM

^great build.

well sh!t, last night i installed the reflectors, put the bulbs back, flicked it on and there was an arc at one of the bulb ends, now the two end bulbs won't light. sound like the ballast blew? i found one of the blue wires at the bulb end was a little frayed with just barley some wire showing, but i guess enough to make contact with the unit and arc and fry a brand new ballast

gus6464 · 09/30/2016, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flexin5

^great build.

well sh!t, last night i installed the reflectors, put the bulbs back, flicked it on and there was an arc at one of the bulb ends, now the two end bulbs won't light. sound like the ballast blew? i found one of the blue wires at the bulb end was a little frayed with just barley some wire showing, but i guess enough to make contact with the unit and arc and fry a brand new ballast

If you need a new ballast go to Home Depot and buy a Philips Advance ICN-2S54-T. They are $35. Better ballast than the stock HEP ones ATI comes with and it's a drop in replacement.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Centium-4...2211/202977281

Flexin5 · 09/30/2016, 05:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gus6464

If you need a new ballast go to Home Depot and buy a Philips Advance ICN-2S54-T. They are $35. Better ballast than the stock HEP ones ATI comes with and it's a drop in replacement.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Centium-4...2211/202977281

PERFECT! i don't have to wait for shipping too. thanks very much! i can't seem to find it at home depot in canada but i'll keep looking.

jewlz · 09/30/2016, 10:50 PM

I always wonder why people don't use marine grade crimp connectors and sealants with their tank electronics. These things exist in a pretty harsh environment. I wouldn't be using wire nuts anywhere where i could crimp and shrinkwrap in that light.

kc350twin · 10/02/2016, 10:29 PM

I don't think it's that critical to seal the wires and there is no way to seal the connections at the ballast any way. My PM's were pretty old and none of the wires had connection issues. If the light goes for a swim that's another story. LOL!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

09/28/2016, 08:06 PM	#1
Flexin5 Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 114	anyone rebuild a ATI power module? hey Reefcentral, i have a ATI 48" 54w x 8 powermodule non led that was hung over my new custom tank. things were going great until one day i woke up, went downstairs to check on the tank and was greeted with water all over the floor, and my nice ATI light completely submerged. looks like the hanging kit gave way. i'm not sure when it fell in, all of my fish are still alive so i think that it was off when it decided to take a dip, then when the apex tried to turn it on in the morning it just tripped. I decided to fully rebuild the unit, so Keith at ATI who has been super helpful shipped me out all new ballasts, reflectors, fans, adapters, bulb connectors, pretty much everything. my question to anyone who's rebuilt them is, the small grey connectors that tie in 3 wires, are they anything specific? or would a regular twist connector do? i did open one up, you can't really re-use them if you do, and all it seemed like it was, was a small strip of metal to connect the 3 wires. any advice would be great

09/28/2016, 08:18 PM	#2
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	anyone rebuild a ATI power module? I have had my fair share of PM building. I built a 12x39 PM from 2 8bulbs. The grey connectors are re-usable. If you pull and twist the wire from left to right the wire will release. I suppose a wire nut would work for sure. I would use compressed air to blow out all the connectors to avoid corrosion. Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's Last edited by kc350twin; 09/28/2016 at 08:24 PM.

09/28/2016, 08:28 PM	#3
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	It's pretty simple just look. LOL! Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/28/2016, 09:03 PM	#5
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	I have to look back at my notes if I have them. I will also look through my pics. Stand by. Lol. Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/28/2016, 10:01 PM	#6
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	Ok so Give me a min to refresh my memory. Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/28/2016, 08:31 PM	#4
Flexin5 Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 114	woah there you go LOL thanks for the post, one question for you if you don't mind. the reason why i was going to change out those grey square connectors is because they are all blue and corroded from being in the salt water that i just don't trust them. one of the brown wires actually snapped off. do you know which black wires coming from the junction box (6 black wires i believe) go to which square grey connectors? i just don't know which grey connector that brown wire came off of.

09/28/2016, 10:02 PM	#7
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	Ok I took one of my black boxes apart to look inside because I didnt save any of my notes on this. Here we go.................... If you open the black junction box there is 7 wires if I am not mistaken and they have tiny white numbers printed on them all but the ground(green wires). I will list them to my knowledge. 1. Black/power for one set of T5's 2 bulb or 6 bulbs I'm not sure 2. White/Common for the same set as above 3. White/Common for the other set of bulbs 4. Black/hot for the other set of bulbs 5. Fan wire Power or ground I'm not sure. See if fans blow into fixture. If not reverse the wires. 6. Fan wire see above. 7 Green wire turns to a Yellow with green tracer at junction. __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/28/2016, 10:07 PM	#8
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	Shameless plug and proof I made it work. Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/28/2016, 10:14 PM	#9
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	Now the fan wires change color if memory serves me. Inside the fixture they are they are brown and grey. What is Power and what is ground I don't know off the top of my head (it is midnight where I am and cannot take it apart at the moment). These are low voltage and can be switched easily without damage. They Blow into the fixture. The Black and White wires (1-4) will require a little effort. You need to trace them and see how many they connect to. One set will have two bulbs and the other will connect to 6 bulbs in your case. ( in my fixture one set will connect to 4 bulbs and the other to 8 bulbs) I hope that makes sense. As for the grey connectors I have yet to find a source for the replacements. I believe they are a Euro/German quick connector and wire nuts are used in the USA. I'm sure ATI can find out where to get them. If not I see no reason why a wire nut is not as good but definitely not as fast/efficient as their quick connects. Hope it helps Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's Last edited by kc350twin; 09/28/2016 at 10:25 PM.

09/28/2016, 10:34 PM	#10
Flexin5 Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 114	Wow that is an awesome fixture! That must have taken some work to do and I just changed out 4 ballasts lol Thanks so much for the info, that's exactly what I've been looking for, I'm into cars and have done electrical on them so I was hoping for a wiring diagram but I couldn't find one, your info explains it perfectly, thank you! I'm changing out the bulb connectors as we speak then I can put some power through it, hopefully it doesn't blow up

09/28/2016, 11:39 PM	#12
Flexin5 Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 114	SWEET!! Kc3 thanks for the help! I used the same junction box, I have a new one but if the old one is working then I'll just leave it instead of re doing all the grey connectors. I think that now that I have everything apart I may run the reefbrite wires through and down the same wiring sleeve as the ATI for a bit cleaner look.

09/29/2016, 09:46 AM	#13
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	Decoupling the PM is easy. There are metal clips on the ends and screws in the middle. Kc3 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/29/2016, 10:03 AM	#14
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	I can't believe I forgot about this thread I started. Duh. It's a little late but here ya go. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2564730 __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's

09/30/2016, 04:05 PM	#15
Flexin5 Registered Member Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 114	^great build. well sh!t, last night i installed the reflectors, put the bulbs back, flicked it on and there was an arc at one of the bulb ends, now the two end bulbs won't light. sound like the ballast blew? i found one of the blue wires at the bulb end was a little frayed with just barley some wire showing, but i guess enough to make contact with the unit and arc and fry a brand new ballast

09/30/2016, 10:50 PM	#18
jewlz Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: North America Posts: 116	I always wonder why people don't use marine grade crimp connectors and sealants with their tank electronics. These things exist in a pretty harsh environment. I wouldn't be using wire nuts anywhere where i could crimp and shrinkwrap in that light.

10/02/2016, 10:29 PM	#19
kc350twin Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Severn, MD Posts: 1,579	I don't think it's that critical to seal the wires and there is no way to seal the connections at the ballast any way. My PM's were pretty old and none of the wires had connection issues. If the light goes for a swim that's another story. LOL! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 112g Cube 36x36x20= Custom 12x39wPower Module (Par Monster)= Neptune Apex=ATB 840v2=BM Doser= 2 MP-40's