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04/24/2017, 11:20 AM | #1 |
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tank down
This has been a horrible week , my 28g nano system got icy when i added a yellow tang. My tank has taken a major hit do to this i put in icy attack and have been soaking the food in garlic , but to my heart break the tank died. I kept dosing one more day everything seemed fine then the nest day my clowns appeared with it. So i took my carbon back out changed the filter pad and rinsed all of the filtration and started to does again a red algae bloom poped up so i and to get chemicleer and know all i have is one chromes and a damsel. My corals are all closed up and dieing . I need some suggestions on what to do. I think i put my tank in a cycle when i clem all the filtration and all the stress killed them. What can i do to save my frogspawn, hammer coral str polpys and my mushrooms. I need help.
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04/24/2017, 01:31 PM | #2 |
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You being serious or you just trolling dawg?
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I can't afford to take you to a fancy dinner, but we can go back to my place and eat in-front of my fancy reef tank. Current Tank Info: 50 mixed |
04/24/2017, 04:08 PM | #3 |
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By "icy", do you mean ick? I've not heard of the term icy used that way.
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04/24/2017, 05:41 PM | #4 |
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Well a tang in a nano does tend to make things icy but pretty sure OP meant Ich. I Always quarantine new fish for a month. Learned the hard way myself with ich once.
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04/25/2017, 10:17 AM | #5 |
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Im so glad that there are so many jokers here , the auto correct changed it to icy. To answer the first response , no I'm not joking. I have always had big reef systems, which have had very different set up. The nano cube is a new experance for me , and i do realize now the tank was a bad idea . I saw many tanks that had tangs in them on you tube, so i thought maybe it is ok for them. It is not ok for them with the smaller space. It took down my whole tank . I called a friend in Florida and what he suggested has helped , i did a 50 percent water change put the filtration back together and the corals are starting to come back . I do need to know how you guys and girls dose your tanks , or do you do the new idea of just changing the water every week to get the nutrients into the system? Please only real responses.
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04/25/2017, 01:23 PM | #6 |
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I've kept a nano for a couple years and never had to dose, granted I've never had huge colonies of sps. I just recently got into acros so I'm sure dosing will be in the near future. I do 10-15% water change every week which takes 5-10minutes tops. I would not keep a tang in anything less then 6'. Your tank is fine with chromis, clowns, and damsels. I keep a pair of clowns, flame hawk fish, and a six line wrasse. I can help you out as much as I can. Let me know how things are going. Here's a pic of my tank.
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Red Sea 170- Acro dominant Current Tank Info: Red Sea 170 |
04/25/2017, 01:54 PM | #7 |
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Tank looks nice mine was going great till i put ich attack and chemiclear in my tank. Now i have changed out half the water , and I hope my hammer coral and frogspawn will come back. The hammer frag looks very bad the spawn looks like it may come back, the mushrooms bad. Did you do any upgrades to your tank,lights skimmer filters, bio ceramic?
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04/25/2017, 01:55 PM | #8 |
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I hear a lot of people upgrading the pumps to 1200 maxi jets for better flow.
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04/25/2017, 05:40 PM | #9 |
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tank down
I upgraded the return to mj1200 cobalt, I have a mini desktop reactor with phosguard because I'm battling phosphate , little filter back with carbon rox, bubble magus qq skimmer, mp10, and 2 primes.
If I were you I would stop using chemiclean and just get brs carbon. Don't use ich attack or whatever. Just keep doing water changes and get your parameters normal. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Red Sea 170- Acro dominant Current Tank Info: Red Sea 170 Last edited by fscmocsaj; 04/25/2017 at 05:46 PM. |
04/25/2017, 05:41 PM | #10 |
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Also have an apex with 7 different modules lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Red Sea 170- Acro dominant Current Tank Info: Red Sea 170 |
04/27/2017, 10:55 AM | #11 |
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I have the cf quad with the overflow in the middle and two returns , one on each side. I have one pointed up and towrd the tank side and the other down and toward the tank side and a 600 pump that is way to strong circulating the bottom of the tank pointed toward the back wall due to it is way to powerful. I have quit doesing the tank did a 50 percent water change put the carbon mix back in. I am using imagitarium carbon and zeolite crystals mix, to cut down any ammonia. My corals are starting to come back.All the fish died , its weird that the shrimp and snails are fine.
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05/26/2017, 11:02 AM | #12 |
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Real sorry to hear about this. Always sucks when a tank crashes.
My .02, I don't quarantine anything, although I know I should. I don't dose and I do lots of big water changes. 5 gallons a week on my biocube 14. Really nothing else. |
05/26/2017, 02:10 PM | #13 |
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Sorry to hear about the bad run of luck with the tank. It sounds like the ich killed the fish. You then (unintentionally) made it worse by adding chemiclean, which is an antibiotic, which kills the bacteria in the system, possibly causing ammonia spikes, killing everything.
The best solution when you have a problem is to stop. do nothing. wait. do some research. ask some members. do a water change with water you trust (salinity, pH, aeration, maybe buy some pre-made water from the LFS). Any time I see anyone panic like there's a fire, I see them inevitably pour more gasoline on the fire, and crash the tank. Especially in a nano, where everything happens much faster, and problems are VERY easy to cause and VERY hard to fix (oddly enough). The best recommendation I have is, slow down, start up again, QUARANTINE your new fishes, and WAIT 72 DAYS BEFORE GETTING ANOTHER FISH. The ich will still be alive in your tank and active for the next 72 days. If you add another fish, it will get ich, and the cycle will start over again. Also worth mentioning, is that while ich is a problem, what you got sounds more like brookylnella or something which kills very quickly. Usually ich doesn't kill fishes, it just irritates them. They have similar symptoms too. Good things happen slowly, bad things happen quickly around here, and the smaller the tank, the more true those are. Give it 6 months before dosing ANYTHING, just do water changes, and keep it simple. Those are my recommendations. |
06/01/2017, 03:49 PM | #14 |
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Update i did what everyone told me and re thought what i was doing . I quit the icy treatment and the chemi clear and did a 50 % water change waited 2 months and strted over. I have a clown a scooter blenny , 6 line wrasse and a lawnmower blenny. I also removed the ceramic bearings and replaced the sponge with regular filter media, and in the second chamber put perigean and poly titer to take care of the phosphates and other organics then in the third carbon. I also put elite in column two . My tank is doing great . I have the frogspawn coming back the hammer and the star polyps have started to grow over the rock that the frag was placed on. I also have a candy cane , leather , button polyp and a dunkun that are doing great . i only issue was red slime which i used a fin bacteria treatment that is safe for the fish and corals , it worked great. Now i have to upgrade my lights and pumps. I am doing the viparspectra dimmable and controllable settings, i was going to use the orbit but chose these instead.
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06/01/2017, 04:53 PM | #15 |
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Glad things are better, but I would rethink the scooter blenny and six line. The six lines are jerks and the scooter blenny is actually a dragonet that needs thousands of pods a day to live
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90 gallon FOWLR Valentini puffer, ocellaris clown, cherub angelfish, flametail blenny, falco hawkfish, green wrasse 180 gallon reef: starry blenny, yellowtail damsel |
06/01/2017, 07:09 PM | #16 |
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I mean it in the nicest way possible, but it sounds like you learned almost nothing from this experience.
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06/02/2017, 10:30 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Again slow down. 2 months is not long enough to kill the ick in your system, minimum is 72 days(thats 2 1/2 months). All your going to do is crash the tank and kill your inhabitants again. Rethink your stocking plan(a nano is no place for a scooter blenny(They eat thousands of copepods and your system cannot, and will not ever be able to support it, unless you do weekly supplemental pod additions). Six line wrasses although pretty cool looking, will dominate that tank in no time and nothing else will live with it. I hate to be blunt, but your going to kill more livestock with the current track your on. Slow down, read the entire stickies in the "New To The Hobby" section, then when you think your ready to start again, ask questions first. There are plenty of people here who have way more knowledge then you currently have, and are more then willing to share, but you have to ask first. I've recenty read quite a few threads such as yours and they all end the same way. Putting the tank up for sale and being out of the hobby. Just like my sig line " nothing happens fast in this hobby except a tank crash". Ultimately it's your tank and your money, do as you wish. We just try and help those that truly want help.
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80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work" |
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06/02/2017, 07:44 PM | #18 |
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To homer is this how you claim to help people by being condescending and put people down then call it help i have been out of the reef game for fifteen years. Before that i have had some of the best reefs you could imagine 2000 g reef system and a 120 , i am clearly used to an older way of doing things and not a smaller tank system. I would hope that some of the truly newer people , you are a bit less of an , you fill in that part. I did not come on here to have somone talk down to me . I cam on here to get answers from more knowledgeable reefers that may have some advice on lights flow and other issues with an all in one tank. I wish i knew how to put photos up of my tanks from 15 years ago , i think your tone would change . They were in 3 differant magazines ..... Now that was twenty years ago and things change leds lights poly filter perigen , my was mangroves and a fugue with dosing daily, now its water changes often when i did it you tried to get where you didn't have to change your water for 6 months. also you used power compacts. All i am trying to get at if you just want to be an ___. please don't reply. Thank you.
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06/02/2017, 08:13 PM | #19 |
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These people are trying to help you. You have not been in the hobby for years and things have changed. Instead of being defensive, listen to what they have to say as they are trying to help you succeed
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90 gallon FOWLR Valentini puffer, ocellaris clown, cherub angelfish, flametail blenny, falco hawkfish, green wrasse 180 gallon reef: starry blenny, yellowtail damsel |
06/03/2017, 02:21 AM | #20 |
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Wow didn't think I talked down to you one bit. Just gave my advice. Take it for what it is.
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80G SCA Build: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2560256 Originally posted by der_wille_zur_macht: "He's just taking his lunch to work" |
06/04/2017, 06:32 PM | #21 |
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i love how people think they know all i have been in the hobby off and on for twenty years , i have metals for valor and honor for fighting for this great nation , i will not be called a lier by anyone. If it was just advice my apologizes. i worked threw high school at a wholesale store in new port richey florida from 95 to 97 probably before your first tank.... thank you for your advice , you are right about one thing i am impatient and need to slow down.
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06/04/2017, 06:32 PM | #22 |
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On my end this is over and will say no more .
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06/04/2017, 10:25 PM | #23 |
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Thanks for your service for our country. On the help side, there are some great stickies by sk8r and water keeper under the new to the hobby section. It covers all things aquatic, and keeping disease in check. I have found that most people 1, don't keep water as stable as they should, 2, way overstock or choose inappropriate livestock for tank size, and 3, don't follow a consistent maintenance schedule or try to cheap out on it. In any captive animal setup, be it production livestock, pet farms, or aquarium animals, most disease problems are caused by over stocking and inappropriate husbandry practices. Please follow people's advise to slow down on stocking, and read up. Technology has changed a lot in just the last five years in reef keeping and is ever changing. And don't take criticism so hard. We are a passionate group about the animals we keep, they are delicate, and if we aren't careful as hobbyist, will lose the ability to have any of them due to carelessness. Saltwater is not a Betta bowl or fair goldfish (even though they are treated horribly, people just view them as disposable) and we should treat them as well as we do the family dog, cat, horse, etc.
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06/06/2017, 07:34 AM | #24 |
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I would agree with what you are saying , i have always had bigger tanks , so the proper size makes since , also the ability to catch something before it gets out of hand is a lot faster with the smaller tank. How do you keep you ph and kh in line and consistent . I do a 2.5 water change once a week and feed brine shrimp and coral smoothy for my fish and corals. The smoothy has copepods for my scooter blenny. I don't plan on having any more fish , i know I'm right there with the tank size . My biggest issue is keeping my ph just right.
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06/06/2017, 08:46 AM | #25 |
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I wouldn't worry about pH at all. If you're worried about pH and/or calcium/alkalinity, you could add kalkwasser powder to your top off. With your limited current stocking though, weekly water changes should replenish any low calcium or alkalinity. Those are the values you should watch, if you're concerned. pH doesn't matter if those two values are in line.
I'd also recommend not feeding either brine shrimp or coral smoothy in a nano. Brine shrimp are not nutritionally useful unless gut-loaded with plankton (they've been referred to as "the potato chips of aquarium fish" for having no nutritional value). Coral Smoothie, or any other broadcast feeding product tend to pollute a tank more than are used as actual food for fishes or corals, just by nature of how much they spread out. Usually people don't have luck long-term supplemental feeding scooter blennies or dragonettes, but we'll see how it goes. I'd recommend switching to something simple like PE Mysis, Rogger's reef food or another frozen medium-to-large piece food. I thing long term broadcast feeding is difficult to sustain in a reef environment in a big tank, and almost impossible to do without causing algae and nutrient issues in a nano. Just my opinion, I'm sure you'll find your niche and what works for you. |
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