Mushrooms and metal halides

MarkD40 · 06/07/2006, 10:45 AM

I have numerous assorted mushrooms throughout my 110 gallon tank. High, low, left and right. They are happy under 576 watts of power compacts mixed 50/50 10,000K and actinic. I want to add some LPS corals and need to increase my PAR.

I will be replacing the above soon with a new fixture that has
2 X 250 watt 10,000K HQI MH's and 2 X 96 watt actinic PC's.

Will the mushrooms adjust to this new lighting or will some of the more exposed ones die. I can't move them because they are attached to the LR. Just wanting to know what to expect. Thanks

Jeremy Blaze · 06/07/2006, 01:08 PM

Depending on what species, and location, some may survive and adjust, others may die.

I have kept many under halides.

MarkD40 · 06/07/2006, 01:42 PM

Thanks JB, pretty much what I thought. I like my mushrooms but I am getting bored with them and want to add some variety to my tank.

philagothos · 06/08/2006, 08:26 AM

You could always use a couple layers of window screen to diffuse the light and remove a layer each week to help acclimate them to the new light. You might still lose a few, but at least you will be giving them a fighting chance. Also, just because they are attached to the liverock doesn't mean you can't move them. They are very hardy and a quick slice with a razor blade will allow you to move them lower in the tank.

Btw, I just saw 190 gallon tank (36" tall) using only 260W of powercompacts and he has several LPS, including an open brain about 12" across. He bought the brain a couple years ago when it was only 4" and it has grown that much in his tank. You may not need the new lights so much as many people would think.

Just my thoughts and I hope it helps.

-Kevin

MarkD40 · 06/09/2006, 03:11 PM

That is the first time I hae ever heard anyone on RC say that MH lighting is not always needed. It cracks me up how often someone is told their "problem" will clear up if only they get MH lighting. Now that I have made the purchase you tell me I probably don't need them! You made my day Philagothos! I fully agree with your statement, I just don't see where many others share our opinion. I am happy to make the upgrade anyway. It has been a long time coming. Thanks for the input.

MUCHO REEF · 06/09/2006, 08:10 PM

I have kept mushrooms for over 13 years now and if they are acclimated correctly, your shroom will slowly adjust and do well. However, your upgrade is extremely dramatic, from a flashlight to a couple of halogen headlight. If you are going with 2 X 250 watt 10,000K HQI MH's and 2 X 96 watt actinic PC's, you are obviously trying to achieve maxium growth with minimal coloration. The 10 k 250's is even more of a leap in intensity an PAR.

IF YOU DON'T DO A VERY SLOW AND PROLONGED ACCLIMATION, THEY WILL BURN, BLEACH, RETRACT AND DIE.

You may not believe it, but it's true my friend. I made the upgrade myself. You should pick up some window sreening from your local hardware store, cut 6 panel to cover your tank. If you have glass tops to use just for the acclimation process, this will help. Lay all 6 panels on top of the glass tops, then cover that panels with another layer of glass, THIS WILL PREVENT YOUR BULBS FROM FRYING THE PANELS. I know I know, it's a lot to do, but it works. YOU MUST, YOU MUST HAVE SOME VERY GOOD FANS TO KEEP THE INSIDE OF YOUR CANOPY COOL AS THE GLASS TOPS WILL RETAIN HEAT HEAT SHOOT YOUR TEMPS OFF THE CHART.

Start with 1 hours actinics, then 6 hours of the HQI 's.

Each week remove a single panel and increase your 10 k photoperiod by 1 hour. After 6 weeks, you will have slowly acclimated your shrooms. I wouldn't go added the sps until this has transpired. Take care in nor having your HQI's too close to the water. You should have at least 3 - 120 mm fans to play it very safe.

Good luck,

Mucho

MarkD40 · 06/12/2006, 02:52 PM

Thanks for the sound advice MUCHO.

55semireef · 06/13/2006, 02:01 PM

How do you know when mushrooms are getting to much light? Anyone have pics or that can describe?

zarro · 06/13/2006, 05:03 PM

HI

55semireef · 06/13/2006, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by zarro
HI

What are you doing?

UH_OH_5_OH · 06/28/2006, 05:18 PM

I think I know what they do when they get too much light.... cause I think mine are doing that now ! They start to get wrinkled.....They get alot more white in their coloring...and less of their original color....and then I suppose they die soon after, yes?

I moved them away from the high light area in my 135 and put them in a more shaded area....I have a cave in my tank that they could fit into.....should I place them in there perhaps ???

55semireef · 06/29/2006, 04:49 PM

Yeah try that. And if they pec up than that is good.

UH_OH_5_OH · 06/30/2006, 08:17 PM

OVERNIGHT !!! I shaded my little green striped run-oh-the-mill mushrooms and boom they came right back...started getting their dark color back just like that ! ! ! Awesome ! ! !

55semireef · 07/01/2006, 06:43 PM

just a question, what does PAR stand for?

Reefrus2003 · 07/01/2006, 07:34 PM

I have lots of mushrooms in a 125 with 3 250w 14k and 260 watts of PC Actinics and they are doing to good, time to cut them again, also have them in a 75 with 2 175w 14k and 220 watt vho actinics they also need to be cut back. Reds and watermelons.
Here is a link under 175w 6500k before I changed to 250w. http://www.marshreef.com/modules.php...wtopic&t=15361

55semireef · 07/01/2006, 10:24 PM

I think the problem with my mushrooms is that they are getting stung by my corals. Oh well, they are only mushrooms.

06/07/2006, 10:45 AM	#1
MarkD40 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kansas Posts: 637	Mushrooms and metal halides I have numerous assorted mushrooms throughout my 110 gallon tank. High, low, left and right. They are happy under 576 watts of power compacts mixed 50/50 10,000K and actinic. I want to add some LPS corals and need to increase my PAR. I will be replacing the above soon with a new fixture that has 2 X 250 watt 10,000K HQI MH's and 2 X 96 watt actinic PC's. Will the mushrooms adjust to this new lighting or will some of the more exposed ones die. I can't move them because they are attached to the LR. Just wanting to know what to expect. Thanks __________________ My ship came in. Unfortunately it hit a reef. Current Tank Info: 110 gallon reef display tank, fish, LPS, SPS and mushrooms. A 75 gallon sump in basement with protein skimmer, 40watt UV sterilizer, RO/DI, refugium with chaeto, phosban reactor. 40 gallon frag tank.

06/07/2006, 01:08 PM	#2
Jeremy Blaze President LMAS Join Date: May 2003 Location: New Washington, IN Posts: 5,883	Depending on what species, and location, some may survive and adjust, others may die. I have kept many under halides. __________________ Trust me my friend, the names are not important at all. I've own hundreds of different zoas and palys and don't know the name of a single one. In my opinion, they are a waste of valuable time. Mucho Reef

06/07/2006, 01:42 PM	#3
MarkD40 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kansas Posts: 637	Thanks JB, pretty much what I thought. I like my mushrooms but I am getting bored with them and want to add some variety to my tank. __________________ My ship came in. Unfortunately it hit a reef. Current Tank Info: 110 gallon reef display tank, fish, LPS, SPS and mushrooms. A 75 gallon sump in basement with protein skimmer, 40watt UV sterilizer, RO/DI, refugium with chaeto, phosban reactor. 40 gallon frag tank.

06/09/2006, 03:11 PM	#5
MarkD40 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kansas Posts: 637	That is the first time I hae ever heard anyone on RC say that MH lighting is not always needed. It cracks me up how often someone is told their "problem" will clear up if only they get MH lighting. Now that I have made the purchase you tell me I probably don't need them! You made my day Philagothos! I fully agree with your statement, I just don't see where many others share our opinion. I am happy to make the upgrade anyway. It has been a long time coming. Thanks for the input. __________________ My ship came in. Unfortunately it hit a reef. Current Tank Info: 110 gallon reef display tank, fish, LPS, SPS and mushrooms. A 75 gallon sump in basement with protein skimmer, 40watt UV sterilizer, RO/DI, refugium with chaeto, phosban reactor. 40 gallon frag tank.

06/09/2006, 08:10 PM	#6
MUCHO REEF Registered Member. Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Michigan Posts: 4,350	I have kept mushrooms for over 13 years now and if they are acclimated correctly, your shroom will slowly adjust and do well. However, your upgrade is extremely dramatic, from a flashlight to a couple of halogen headlight. If you are going with 2 X 250 watt 10,000K HQI MH's and 2 X 96 watt actinic PC's, you are obviously trying to achieve maxium growth with minimal coloration. The 10 k 250's is even more of a leap in intensity an PAR. IF YOU DON'T DO A VERY SLOW AND PROLONGED ACCLIMATION, THEY WILL BURN, BLEACH, RETRACT AND DIE. You may not believe it, but it's true my friend. I made the upgrade myself. You should pick up some window sreening from your local hardware store, cut 6 panel to cover your tank. If you have glass tops to use just for the acclimation process, this will help. Lay all 6 panels on top of the glass tops, then cover that panels with another layer of glass, THIS WILL PREVENT YOUR BULBS FROM FRYING THE PANELS. I know I know, it's a lot to do, but it works. YOU MUST, YOU MUST HAVE SOME VERY GOOD FANS TO KEEP THE INSIDE OF YOUR CANOPY COOL AS THE GLASS TOPS WILL RETAIN HEAT HEAT SHOOT YOUR TEMPS OFF THE CHART. Start with 1 hours actinics, then 6 hours of the HQI 's. Each week remove a single panel and increase your 10 k photoperiod by 1 hour. After 6 weeks, you will have slowly acclimated your shrooms. I wouldn't go added the sps until this has transpired. Take care in nor having your HQI's too close to the water. You should have at least 3 - 120 mm fans to play it very safe. Good luck, Mucho __________________ Anyone can build a reef.....the greater challenge......is to grow one. Current Tank Info: 70 gallon zoanthid, Palythoa and Mushroom Reef.

06/08/2006, 08:26 AM	#4
philagothos Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Posts: 757	You could always use a couple layers of window screen to diffuse the light and remove a layer each week to help acclimate them to the new light. You might still lose a few, but at least you will be giving them a fighting chance. Also, just because they are attached to the liverock doesn't mean you can't move them. They are very hardy and a quick slice with a razor blade will allow you to move them lower in the tank. Btw, I just saw 190 gallon tank (36" tall) using only 260W of powercompacts and he has several LPS, including an open brain about 12" across. He bought the brain a couple years ago when it was only 4" and it has grown that much in his tank. You may not need the new lights so much as many people would think. Just my thoughts and I hope it helps. -Kevin

06/12/2006, 02:52 PM	#7
MarkD40 Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Kansas Posts: 637	Thanks for the sound advice MUCHO. __________________ My ship came in. Unfortunately it hit a reef. Current Tank Info: 110 gallon reef display tank, fish, LPS, SPS and mushrooms. A 75 gallon sump in basement with protein skimmer, 40watt UV sterilizer, RO/DI, refugium with chaeto, phosban reactor. 40 gallon frag tank.

06/13/2006, 02:01 PM	#8
55semireef Moved On Join Date: May 2006 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 5,322	How do you know when mushrooms are getting to much light? Anyone have pics or that can describe?

06/13/2006, 05:03 PM	#9
zarro Moved On Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Bellefontaine Ohio Posts: 231	HI

06/28/2006, 05:18 PM	#11
UH_OH_5_OH Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Illinois Posts: 1,184	I think I know what they do when they get too much light.... cause I think mine are doing that now ! They start to get wrinkled.....They get alot more white in their coloring...and less of their original color....and then I suppose they die soon after, yes? I moved them away from the high light area in my 135 and put them in a more shaded area....I have a cave in my tank that they could fit into.....should I place them in there perhaps ??? __________________ Life is hard; it's alot harder if you're stupid ! Current Tank Info: None !

06/29/2006, 04:49 PM	#12
55semireef Moved On Join Date: May 2006 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 5,322	Yeah try that. And if they pec up than that is good.

06/30/2006, 08:17 PM	#13
UH_OH_5_OH Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Illinois Posts: 1,184	OVERNIGHT !!! I shaded my little green striped run-oh-the-mill mushrooms and boom they came right back...started getting their dark color back just like that ! ! ! Awesome ! ! ! __________________ Life is hard; it's alot harder if you're stupid ! Current Tank Info: None !

07/01/2006, 06:43 PM	#14
55semireef Moved On Join Date: May 2006 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 5,322	just a question, what does PAR stand for?

07/01/2006, 07:34 PM	#15
Reefrus2003 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Houston Posts: 246	I have lots of mushrooms in a 125 with 3 250w 14k and 260 watts of PC Actinics and they are doing to good, time to cut them again, also have them in a 75 with 2 175w 14k and 220 watt vho actinics they also need to be cut back. Reds and watermelons. Here is a link under 175w 6500k before I changed to 250w. http://www.marshreef.com/modules.php...wtopic&t=15361

07/01/2006, 10:24 PM	#16
55semireef Moved On Join Date: May 2006 Location: Orlando, FL Posts: 5,322	I think the problem with my mushrooms is that they are getting stung by my corals. Oh well, they are only mushrooms.