Looks very, very nice!

Yeah... based on my rough calculations using 10lb/sqft as a meaure.. tank should weight between 1000-1100 lbs. !!!! pray for my back and hope I still have friends left.

sanjay.

WOW! Use a back brace. Make sure you dont really hurt yourself! :)

You're a professor. Don't you have students who are doing poorly and would be willing to help?

the tank looks so sweet !

Did I miss the thickness of glass used? Killer dimensions as everyone has stated!

The glass thickness is 3/4"

sanjay

A quick change from Prof Joshi to Photon Man and no problem. Its actually an easy lift for Photon Man... he'll be flying in with the stand in one hand, the tank in the other...
Good luck with the move!
Joe

That other overflow and back in the picture is mine. Now I know who has delayed my 450! It's shipping this week though :) Looks great.

What's the plan for the return pump? How much is going through the sump?

:lol:

Dont you wish everything was that easy.

But joe- I think even photon man would have a problem positioning your tank! ;)

Sanjay,

Will told me you were going to come up and help me load it on the truck. Or do I have to do this solo? hehehe Kidding, heavy is an understatement.

So is kwl1763's Tank. They are a couple beautiful tanks no doubt.

Tank looks great. I can't wait to come up and check it out.

even though we haven't talked in a while, I'm pretty sure my back (and my friendship) can help out!

Give me a call old man!

Professor: it looks good. Thanks for sharing.

Dr. A

That does not sound right... My 600gal (96x48x30) on the shipping skid with a BK400 and a few other things in the tank was only like 1352lbs... I put the skid at like 150-200lbs and the BK at 50lbs and the misc stuff at like 15lbs... That would put my tank which is larger about 1100lbs...

He did say "rough calculations" and "between 1000-1100 lbs".

Shawn, what size is your tank again???:lol:

Here is how I did my rough calculations:

Glass density: 2.6 g/cc (found this somewhere on the web)
which is about .07 lb/square inch, or 10.14 lb/square foot for 3/4" glass.

Computed the total surface area of the glass used - including overlfow box and eurobracing. I did not account for any dimension reductions due to overlap of edges or holes drilled etc (hence the approx). I would much rather make the error on the high side.

But just for kicks - going backward from your estimate.. my tank is only 1 ft shorter in length than your tank. So the only major difference would be the 48X12" reduction in area of the bottom glass+30X12" reduction on the front and back . This is a reduction of 1296 sq inches or 9 sq ft. So 9 sq ft X 10 lb.sq foot gives me 90 lbs. And 1100-90 = 1010 lbs.. within my "rough approximation" :D

sanjay.

Not to mention the weight of the external overflow box.

500g ;)

I know you were being sarcastic btw :lol:

/sigh :(

Sanjay:

Thanks for the info on the weight of 3/4" glass, I've been looking for that to estimate the weight of a tank I'm considering. I'm thinking I might copy your design, but on a somewhat smaller scale (60" x 36" x 30" overall tank dimensions).

If you don't mind, what is the width of your eurobracing, and is that also 3/4" glass?

TIA

Sanjay
I noticed you spec'd out true union ball valves on either side of all your pumps. That's a little overkill, you only really need single union ball valves on the pumps and unions on the plumbing to the reactors. Since you probably will never need to take the valve off the sump and really only need to remove the pump for servicing not the plumbing. The single union valves are much cheaper than true union valves.


Nice tank BTW

I disagree. There are times when you decide to change something etc. and need the other union. And I screwed up and put a single union on the outflow of my return pump, and it's on backwards. So when I remove the pump I get some water out of the return riser & manifold. It's not a lot, but had I used a true union there would be no problem. Sure it's a mistake I made, but a few more dollars and it wouldn't be a mistake!

What happened was I put the true union between the pump and the sump when that one should have gone on the return side. I may be able to swap them but I haven't looked into that yet. <ramble> but my point is it could have been avoided with a true union.:)

Correct if you put the union side on the pump you wouldn't have that problem. If you used threaded bushings instead of slip (glue-in) you could easily correct your mistake and you could easily reuse the valves if the plumbing layout ever needs to be changed. But we all know that never happens! LOL

Single union valves $27 +/-
True union valves $34 +/-

$7 / valve x 9 = $63 savings on 2" valves alone

Granted not that much of a savings on a 500 gallon tank but being able to value engineer all the way through a project will add up in the end.

BTW I have true union valves between my sump and pumps and never in 10 years have I needed to take the valve off the sump. Its just one of those that erks me everytime I look at it.