Good point as it applies to any remote collection cup setup. I have a tank with a 5' hose that had such a dip and was very erratic until I found and fixed this issue.

ev-180
 

I have had a dip in my hose. I guess that has been part of the problem. Thanks.

Thanks for all the suggestion.

I have made many very small changes to the adjustments. I actually get the best looking bubbles if I remove the ball valve. The ball valve is clean and free of obstructions.

As I adjust the output valve I raise the water in the reaction chamber, but the bubble size does not change.

A friend of mine suggested something, and it makes sense, but I have no way to verify it. I have tried various mechanical fixes, but is there any chance I have something in my water that is affecting my surface tension? As I understand it, a skimmer works by using the surface tension and the specific gravity of the water. Could I have a problem with water my water. This has been going on for 6 months, and I have done six 25 to 30 gallon water changes(once a month)

Could there be something in my water that is effecting surface tension? and in there anyway that I can test this?

This might be grasping at straws, but that's about where I am at.

My water parameters are; salinity is 1.025, the temp is 80F, ph is 8.3, kh is 9.6, calcium is 380, Ammonia, Nitrate and Nitrite are 0.

Thanks

Thanks for your input Carson.

Welcome to RC Amphora!!! :)

Hi Anthony,
We are building a new 65 gallon sump with an area for a Euro-reef cs8-24" with gate valve, a small "cryptic" refugium and of course the 3rd chamber to dose and return water to the sump.

I believe the optimal water level for the skimmer chamber would be 7" (Euro-reef says between 6 and 8)? I am still confused on a couple of points concerning the skimmer output from the gate valve:
1) Is it better to have the water flow out of the skimmer into the same chamber (back into the skimmer chamber) or to flow it straight into the 2nd chamber (refugium)?

2) Is it okay for the "outflow" pipe to be submerged (cuts down on splash... but somewhere in this thread I thought I saw something about not doing that?)?

Thanks once again in advance!

If you flow it out of the feed chamber, make sure that when you turn off the main pump, you turn off the skimmer or it will suck that chamber dry.

its really no big deal to return the skimmer outflow into the same chamber that it draws from. As per some pages/posts back... I like to hedge my bets by placing the outflow of the skimmer opposite of the inflow and skimmer pump draw. That's for peace of mind more than anything else. The tank turnover is high enough per hour that it is a moot point either way. Plus it will avoid the risk of burning out the skimmer pump if the sump pump fails, as the good Dr has pointed out above.

I found that one out the hard way. I use an oceanic bucket for the return chamber. Buckets float :D So do shorter buckets which is what my return pump sits in. I learned to keep the water level of the sump higher to combat that. Nothing like coming in from a night at the watering hole to hear a dry pump sound and everything a mess. That happens when your skimmer skims out about 10 gallons.

Thanks! Good advice!!! I've learned enough the hard way too!

Another issue (that I learned the hard way): My skimmer went crazy and filled the collection cup, then the remote collection cup and finally flooded the floor, within 30 minutes it managed to pump about 15 liters on my floor.
I have now installed two float switches in the lid of the remote collection cup, one stops the skimmer and the other starts an air pump.

Vidar

AquaMedic Turboflotor
 

Amphora - I have the AM Turboflotor too...I bought the "multi" version, which can run external to a sump. Mine also has the oceanrunner pump that came with your skimmer. I first ran mine external to my sump, now I have it set up HOB on the sump.

The inlet restrictor and longer neck piece were provided to allow a greater range of adjustability, especially for those who choose to run the "multi" version, which can be set up in many ways. Obviously, water level (and it's relationship to the skimmer height, and the skimmer pump height), water parameters, distance from skimmer pump to skimmer, etc, all impact the performance of the skimmer, and with only the oulet valves themselves for adjustment, you may not be able get your skimmer running properly.

I too, have had issues with inconsistent skimming - sometimes it runs great, then it will suddenly stop producing any skimmate, and when I adjust it, it will run good for a few hours, then begin overflowing. However, I am still working on dialing in my setup, as well as my maintenance routine...I feel that some of the inconsistancies in how I do things may be contributing to inconsistant skimmer performance.

If you have any questions about setup, feel free to PM me - I'm no expert, but I'd be happy to share more details on my experience with this skimmer so far.

turboflotter
 

I too have the 1000 multi, and was a little miffed at first. I have it currently set op hob as my tank has been moved and sump is not up and running right now. I find that if you run it hob you need to get the pump up as high as possible in the water column to get good skimming results. All I did was create a shelf that the skimmer sits on. A little noisy though as the return is quite high off the water surface. But I get very good results from this method. I still get the crazies every now and again when the skimmer just goes bonkers. I also popped the valves off and allow it to run full throttle. I will consider an upgrade in the future, but for now this one will have to do.
Jason

turboflotter
 

I too have the 1000 multi, and was a little miffed at first. I have it currently set op hob as my tank has been moved and sump is not up and running right now. I find that if you run it hob you need to get the pump up as high as possible in the water column to get good skimming results. All I did was create a shelf that the skimmer sits on. A little noisy though as the return is quite high off the water surface. But I get very good results from this method. I still get the crazies every now and again when the skimmer just goes bonkers. I also popped the valves off and allow it to run full throttle. I will consider an upgrade in the future, but for now this one will have to do.
Jason

Yes I agree. I actually shortened the hose from the pump to the skimmer and keep the pump a couple of inches below the water level in my sump.

When I first bought the TF Multi I was also having problems with the collection cup filling very quickly and overflowing. I contacted AM they told me to remove the collection cup cover until it settles down and use the flow taps to adjust the water level on the skimmer and it works great.

My turboflotter works much better without the flow caps installed. I will be looking into this restrictor on my pump I read about further up in the thread. Would like to try removing it and putting the taller riser on my reactor chamber. See if this mod will get even better performance.
Jaosn

Those flow taps are if you want to run a wet skimmate, which I do, otherwise you will want to remove them and use the longer neck piece.

AM Turboflotor 1000 Multi
 

Anthony C - Thanks for the welcome. Nice to be here and hopefully share some of the experience with the others.

unkleJ - thank you for sharing your experience with your Turboflotor 1000 multi. I was relieved a bit to see that the poor performance might not be solely related to me. I too have the multi version. I have been running it in the HOB mode from the start. Now I am thankful that I did not attempt to run it outside the sump because of the overflowing problem. I agree that it is difficult to find a consistent "sweet spot" with this skimmer and that there are too many variables affecting its performance. Anyway, I would like to share my observations with you and the others that are having difficulty with this skimmer:

After finding this forum, it became obvious once more that the level of the water in the sump is very important. I try to keep a constant level with the help of a RO water topping mechanism. The depth of the water in my sump is approximately 12 cm (4.7 inches). After reading this thread, I moved my pump closer to the surface by shortening the pipe that connects the pump to the skimmer. I removed the plastic body of the pump and moved the intake/venturi opening as close as to the surface as possible without creating a vortex. I guess there is about an inch between the intake and the water surface.

My first observation after doing this was that, because of the decreased water pressure exerted on the intake of the pump, I had difficulty rising the water level in the skimmer. As a result of this I closed both of the valves on the effluent water. The level rose, but the production of skimmate was still unsatisfactory. Seeing that the performace was not sufficient, I decided to remove the restrictor piece in the intake of the pump and installed the extender neck. When I started, I saw that the intake is now more powerful and I had to open the valves fully on the effluent water side. Everything seemed to be OK, but I observed that now the skimmate was too watery. Nevertheless I decided to wait for a few days in order for the skimmer to find its balance. On the second day, I came to the house to find that it had overflown and was continuing to do so. I stopped the pump, emptied the collector cup, and since both of the valves are already in the full position, decided to remove the silencer connected to the air tube. I find that the silencer restricts the airflow a bit, resulting in a relative increase in the water level in the skimmer body. Therefore, removing the silencer dropped the level in the skimmer body. At the moment, I am giving it a try like this. It has been two days and there are no overflowes yet. However, I am still far from collecting a full collection cup everyday.
It seems that this skimmer is all about extremes, with one setup, the performance is pathetic, with the other setup, it is difficult to keep it under control.

jaden1 - I agree that the pump shoud be as high as possible in the water colum. To this end I too shortened the hose from the pump. In my case, this resulted in a slight decrease in the water level in the skimmer body, and I am still fiddling with it to find the sweet spot.

cheeks69 - I also saw this advice about removing the valves in order to prevent the overflowing. However, this skimmer is so erratic in its behavior that, a week ago I came to the house to find water gushing from the hole that is normally closed by the removed valves. Maybe we shoud ask for another skimmer for the new year!

I recently purchased an older Turbo Flotor Multi that came with the Aquabee pump. Reading through this thread I see mention of flow caps and extended necks. Could someone explain what these look like so I can see if this skimmer came with them? I don't have a picture available at the moment but the skimmer came with only a black box that hangs over the tank wall and 2 cpvc elbows that exit that box. Pictures on sites selling the Multi show 2 of those boxes, which I don't quite understand their purpose.

The skimmer skimmed dry when I mounted it on a LR holding tank, and I'd like to use this on a small frag tank as a secondary wet skimmer. I also don't see how this skimmer converts to insump as advertised, unless I prop it up in the corner. Seems the pump would topple it over unless supported.

Turboflotor
 

Amphora - on the water level thing - water level definately makes a difference - as illustrated by everyone's mods to get the pump closer to the surface. So, if there's anything you can do to make the level more constant, that will help. My skimmer pump is in a section of my sump that has a constant level. There is a set of bubble trap baffles between the skimmer pump and return pump.

Also, I drilled a hole in my collection cup and ran a drain line from the cup down to a 1 gallon collection container - gives me a lot more time before a flood occurs if things get out of hand. I'm going to set it up with a float switch to shut off the skimmer too - so with that setup, I can be more aggressive with my skimmer setup without worrying about having a flood.

Kenfuzed - you might find some info on the mfr's website...but in short, the skimmer goes on the outside of the sump, hanging by the returns - which rest on the edge of the sump, and are connected to that black box. Not sure what the deal is with the 2 black boxes, I guess that's supposed to give you more of a "bubble trap" to allow micro bubbles to settle out before the return water is dumped back into your sump. I only use 1 black box.

unkleJ - My water level in the sump is pretty solid. At the moment, I am experimenting with running it without the valves and the silencer piece on the air tube.

Kenfused - You can hang the skimmer body by the return pipes. I use only one of those boxes. I believe it is for lowering down your effluent water so that it will not splash and cause bubbles.
As for the extender piece we are talking about, mine came in the original box. It is the piece which your skimmate collection box sits on. There are two sizes that are provided and the collection box's height relative to the skimmer changes according to the piece that you use. You can try to unscrew the neck counterclock wise if I remember correctly, that is presently on your skimmer after removing the skimmate collection box and change it with the other piece, if you have it.

No, unfortunately it only came with the one neck, and not sure if it is the long or short version. Still not sure what the "flow caps" are or where they are located.

The only adjustment I can find is a valve someone put on the air hose.

Also, why do these come with a bubble counter?

Ken - mine didn't come with a bubble counter...the valve on the air hose you mentioned - that's on the air line to the pump venturi? Mine doesn't have that either....maybe those are mods by the previous owner?

The flow control valves are on the outlets from the skimmer - each one has a round black knob on it, right on the side of the body of the skimmer.

The return lines run up the outside of the skimmer, then turn 90 degrees out to form the outlets. At this 90 degree bend is where the flow control knobs are. Kinda hard to explain....

The knobs are not knurled or anything - they are smooth and round except for a "indicator line" like that on the volume knob on a radio - with that line straight and pointing towards the direction of the flow out of the return, that gives you your max flow (or minimum restriction to flow), with the line flipped around 180 degrees, so its pointing straight into the skimmer, thats your maximum restriction to flow (will raise the level in the skimmer, give you wetter skimmate).

Hope that helps.

Kenfused - I believe the bubble counter that you are referring to is the silencer. The user guide I have clearly labels it so. If I do not put the silencer on the sound of air being sucked into the venturi becomes a bit disturbing.

Also in my experience having the silencer on the air tube or not makes a slight impact on the performance of the skimmer.

Putting a <i>dry</i> wooden airstone on the end will keep it silent, but it shouldn't affect the volume being venturied (if that's a word). hehe

Venturied....LOL