[daddavis1]

I may be able tyo help here. Its a 2" PVC Cap which you slot before assembly on a table saw. Jason has a real nice jig for that. The end is a reducer from 2" to 1.5". A very short piece of 2" PVC join the cap and reducer together. You really don't have to use any glue to hold it together either. At least with the ones I made. When I built mine I put an X inside the 2" PVC portion to help force flow to the outside a little more. It was 8th inch scrap Plexiglass cut in 3/4" strips and then slotted to fit together.

The cap is drilled to accept the 3/4" fitting which if not threaded will have to be glued to the endcap.

The whole purpose behind them was to take the 3/4" outlet from the main return pump and create a wide gentle spreading cone of water. If you remember the 92 GAL corner tanks at Good Shepherd in Seymour. The water movement filled the whole tank from just one.

Real eductors use high pressure from a small outlet and shoot it through basically a funnel to quadupal the turnover rate inside the tank. They can pull as much as 75% of the tanks water into the output. The model you see in this thread adds about 40% to the output which is still significant.

When hooked up to a squid they produce interesting affects especially if both outputs are in the same tank. But like what was mentioned already you should really modify the SWDS first so you can service them and improve the output.

Hope this helps.

Dan