55 gallon filtration

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/08/2009, 10:24 AM

I am currently working on aquiring all of my equipment before I get my 55 up and running. Ultimately I want to go with the sump setup for filtration. The sumps sold online seem to be too much money and not enought space (gallons of sump). It is to my knowledge that for a 55 gal tank it would be best to have a 20 gal sump.

My question is can I run a FOWLR setup in the begining with only a protein skimmer and at least 50-60 lbs of LR? If so,can I setup the sump later on as the tank becomes more established? Any other suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 08:35 AM

I guess since no-one replied that this is a useless or maybe not a "practical" question. I would asume there is somewhere someplace that this has been answered before. I have searched around the internet from this site to many others as well as spoke with people who have done this before but have yet to feel confident about a solution to this problem. Is there anyone who has a suggestion as to if I can start out my tank with just a protein skimmer (I guess it would have to be the HOB variety) and then add a sump setup later on?

ZoaFan08 · 02/09/2009, 10:35 AM

I was the same as you when I first setup my 55g. After a few months I decided to build myself a sump and it was the best choice I ever made for my tank. The sump cost me less than $30 to make and only took a few hours of my time and is 35g. I could have made my life WAY easier and my tank WAY more efficient if I made the decision about the sump when I setup the tank. I would setup your sump now and drill your tank and make your entire experience easier, because you will eventually setup a sump and you'll wish you did it earlier and before you setup the tank.

When I first setup my tank:

Building my sump:

New Sump Installed:

sscherin · 02/09/2009, 10:54 AM

This is the setup I'm working on right now..

The 5 gallon tub will be the refuge, then the 10 gal tank for the skimmer and return pump pickup chamber..

The 10 gal is drilled for the return pump.

Bean cans are just for mock up.. a proper stand is being built.

If you were running all internal pumps you might be able to get 2 10 gal tanks in there.. drill one for overflows near the top and raise it up to get the pipes over the 2nd.. same idea as the tub.

No reason a good sump setup can't be built for $30 with common parts.

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 01:24 PM

Thanks for the pics. It seems to me that minus the tank (I would go 20gal long for the sump) the equipment I would need is:

Protein skimmer
Overflow box (tank is not drilled, don't have anyone to drill it)
Acrylic pieces to form the sections
return pump
live rock for the sump
PVC piping & tubing for overflow & return
Aquarium safe glue to attach the acrylic sections

Did I miss anything?

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 01:29 PM

Also, how strong of a pump would you recomend to use for the return (gph)?

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 01:31 PM

and for the overflow box (gph)?

ZoaFan08 · 02/09/2009, 01:38 PM

I use a eheim 1260 on my 55g and it is quiet and runs great!

I would nto use acrylic, I had better luck with glass. Find a shower door/window shop and tell them you need panels cut and you don't mind if they are scratched etc, cost me around $9 for mine and they cut them to specs.

On your return make sure you put a ball valve, and use unions on your return pump, bulkhead/overflow.

Do not use glue, use Silicone. Goto Home Depot or Lowes and buy GE Silicone II Window and Door, get clear. DO NOT get kitchen/bathroom silicone it has chemicals.

I would consider drilling your tank, its REALLY easy. You can buy the complete kit at Gl*******s.com.

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 01:57 PM

Thanks again for the info. The panels suggested to be used in the sump are glass, correct?

Also I did not understand what you meant by: "On your return make sure you put a ball valve, and use unions on your return pump, bulkhead/overflow". Is there anyway you can clarify this or do I need to just look up the termonology and figue it out?

sscherin · 02/09/2009, 02:35 PM

The reason for glass panes for the sump dividers is silicone does not bond to acrylic very well.

The ball valve on the pump outlet lets you throttle back the pump if your overflow can't handle the flow and works as a shutoff for pump maintenance.

If you look in my picture you'll see ball valves on my drain lines and the return from the pump (fittings with the red handles)

If you look at the pump you'll see it has unions on the inlet and outlet (the fat fittings on the pipes) The union is a 2 piece fitting with a rubber O ring and a locking ring that lets you disconnect a section of the plumbing for cleaning or replacement.

Most of the ball valves I'm using are also what they call True-Union
It has a union on each end.

As for flow I'm using a 580gph external pump.. On my last 65 I used a Quiet one 2200 that also flows 580gph..
The quiet one 2200 is nice because you can get it at Pet Smart for $44 and it has 1" NPT inlet and outlet for easy plumbing..

The ball valve on the pump outlet lets you throttle back the pump if your overflow can't handle the flow.

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/09/2009, 04:02 PM

Okay that makes a lot more sense, thanks! I guess I just didn't understand the terms for the pieces that connect all the piping together. I must say that I am a bit nervous about setting this up myself. I know that it's not TOO difficult but I just don't want to make any mistakes (although that's one of many ways to learn). I am most worried about having the water flow properly and avoiding any potential floods.

Thanks for the info, I will have to do some more research on where I can purchase all of these parts.

ZoaFan08 · 02/09/2009, 04:12 PM

sscherin hit it on the head. The unions make repairs, additions, or changes way easier. I would have the tank plumbed and in the garage and do a test run with hose water to check for leaks, pinholes etc. You can also change your plans around.

ZoaFan08 · 02/09/2009, 04:13 PM

Also feel free to PM any questions you have about the plumbing, drilling etc. I have been through it all with the same tank

NyC ReeF 55 · 02/10/2009, 08:25 AM

Thanks for the support. I am working on getting all the materials and then I will be diving right into the setup. I'm sure I'll be back!!

02/08/2009, 10:24 AM	#1
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	55 gallon filtration I am currently working on aquiring all of my equipment before I get my 55 up and running. Ultimately I want to go with the sump setup for filtration. The sumps sold online seem to be too much money and not enought space (gallons of sump). It is to my knowledge that for a 55 gal tank it would be best to have a 20 gal sump. My question is can I run a FOWLR setup in the begining with only a protein skimmer and at least 50-60 lbs of LR? If so,can I setup the sump later on as the tank becomes more established? Any other suggestions? Thank you in advance.

02/09/2009, 10:54 AM	#4
sscherin Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Eugene, OR Posts: 697	This is the setup I'm working on right now.. The 5 gallon tub will be the refuge, then the 10 gal tank for the skimmer and return pump pickup chamber.. The 10 gal is drilled for the return pump. Bean cans are just for mock up.. a proper stand is being built. If you were running all internal pumps you might be able to get 2 10 gal tanks in there.. drill one for overflows near the top and raise it up to get the pipes over the 2nd.. same idea as the tub. No reason a good sump setup can't be built for $30 with common parts. __________________ William's Law-- There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance. Current Tank Info: 14gal construction zone

02/09/2009, 02:35 PM	#10
sscherin Registered Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Eugene, OR Posts: 697	The reason for glass panes for the sump dividers is silicone does not bond to acrylic very well. The ball valve on the pump outlet lets you throttle back the pump if your overflow can't handle the flow and works as a shutoff for pump maintenance. If you look in my picture you'll see ball valves on my drain lines and the return from the pump (fittings with the red handles) If you look at the pump you'll see it has unions on the inlet and outlet (the fat fittings on the pipes) The union is a 2 piece fitting with a rubber O ring and a locking ring that lets you disconnect a section of the plumbing for cleaning or replacement. Most of the ball valves I'm using are also what they call True-Union It has a union on each end. As for flow I'm using a 580gph external pump.. On my last 65 I used a Quiet one 2200 that also flows 580gph.. The quiet one 2200 is nice because you can get it at Pet Smart for $44 and it has 1" NPT inlet and outlet for easy plumbing.. The ball valve on the pump outlet lets you throttle back the pump if your overflow can't handle the flow. __________________ William's Law-- There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance. Current Tank Info: 14gal construction zone

02/09/2009, 08:35 AM	#2
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	I guess since no-one replied that this is a useless or maybe not a "practical" question. I would asume there is somewhere someplace that this has been answered before. I have searched around the internet from this site to many others as well as spoke with people who have done this before but have yet to feel confident about a solution to this problem. Is there anyone who has a suggestion as to if I can start out my tank with just a protein skimmer (I guess it would have to be the HOB variety) and then add a sump setup later on?

02/09/2009, 10:35 AM	#3
ZoaFan08 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Alta Loma CA Posts: 1,211	I was the same as you when I first setup my 55g. After a few months I decided to build myself a sump and it was the best choice I ever made for my tank. The sump cost me less than $30 to make and only took a few hours of my time and is 35g. I could have made my life WAY easier and my tank WAY more efficient if I made the decision about the sump when I setup the tank. I would setup your sump now and drill your tank and make your entire experience easier, because you will eventually setup a sump and you'll wish you did it earlier and before you setup the tank. When I first setup my tank: Building my sump: New Sump Installed:

02/09/2009, 01:24 PM	#5
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	Thanks for the pics. It seems to me that minus the tank (I would go 20gal long for the sump) the equipment I would need is: Protein skimmer Overflow box (tank is not drilled, don't have anyone to drill it) Acrylic pieces to form the sections return pump live rock for the sump PVC piping & tubing for overflow & return Aquarium safe glue to attach the acrylic sections Did I miss anything?

02/09/2009, 01:29 PM	#6
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	Also, how strong of a pump would you recomend to use for the return (gph)?

02/09/2009, 01:31 PM	#7
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	and for the overflow box (gph)?

02/09/2009, 01:38 PM	#8
ZoaFan08 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Alta Loma CA Posts: 1,211	I use a eheim 1260 on my 55g and it is quiet and runs great! I would nto use acrylic, I had better luck with glass. Find a shower door/window shop and tell them you need panels cut and you don't mind if they are scratched etc, cost me around $9 for mine and they cut them to specs. On your return make sure you put a ball valve, and use unions on your return pump, bulkhead/overflow. Do not use glue, use Silicone. Goto Home Depot or Lowes and buy GE Silicone II Window and Door, get clear. DO NOT get kitchen/bathroom silicone it has chemicals. I would consider drilling your tank, its REALLY easy. You can buy the complete kit at Gl*******s.com.

02/09/2009, 01:57 PM	#9
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	Thanks again for the info. The panels suggested to be used in the sump are glass, correct? Also I did not understand what you meant by: "On your return make sure you put a ball valve, and use unions on your return pump, bulkhead/overflow". Is there anyway you can clarify this or do I need to just look up the termonology and figue it out?

02/09/2009, 04:02 PM	#11
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	Okay that makes a lot more sense, thanks! I guess I just didn't understand the terms for the pieces that connect all the piping together. I must say that I am a bit nervous about setting this up myself. I know that it's not TOO difficult but I just don't want to make any mistakes (although that's one of many ways to learn). I am most worried about having the water flow properly and avoiding any potential floods. Thanks for the info, I will have to do some more research on where I can purchase all of these parts.

02/09/2009, 04:12 PM	#12
ZoaFan08 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Alta Loma CA Posts: 1,211	sscherin hit it on the head. The unions make repairs, additions, or changes way easier. I would have the tank plumbed and in the garage and do a test run with hose water to check for leaks, pinholes etc. You can also change your plans around.

02/09/2009, 04:13 PM	#13
ZoaFan08 Moved On Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Alta Loma CA Posts: 1,211	Also feel free to PM any questions you have about the plumbing, drilling etc. I have been through it all with the same tank

02/10/2009, 08:25 AM	#14
NyC ReeF 55 Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Nyc Posts: 36	Thanks for the support. I am working on getting all the materials and then I will be diving right into the setup. I'm sure I'll be back!!