Still need to test for nitrite and ammonia?

gtp0083 · 03/08/2018, 09:58 AM

Tank is about 1 1/2 years old is it still necessary?

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gtp0083 · 03/08/2018, 10:02 AM

The reason I ask. I have been testing with API for a while. I also have the LFS test to backup my readings.

Lately I have been testing high nitrates in the 20-40ppm with the API test kit and the LFS is testing 0.

Thinking about upgrading to a better test system. Thought I would buy a nitrate only kit. Avoiding buying the ammonia and nitrite if I do t really need them anymore.

Thoughts?

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mcgyvr · 03/08/2018, 10:05 AM

Heck no..
Ammonia and nitrite are really only to be used to give an indication of a tanks initial cycling process..

The only time you may register ammonia/nitrites after that would be following a large death in the tank and even then you are unlikely to see it..

No need..

gtp0083 · 03/08/2018, 10:16 AM

That’s what I thought just wanted to confirm. Thanks!!

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BrettDS · 03/08/2018, 07:05 PM

There’s really no reason to test ammonia or nitrite regularly on an established tank, but IMO it is still worth keeping an ammonia test kit on hand. If something happens and you get an ammonia spike it can quickly kill fish and corals, so it’s good to have to do a quick test if you notice a problem. It can also be useful as you’re quarantining new fish as often new tanks or TTM buckets don’t have time to cycle and ammonia can be a problem there as well.

gtp0083 · 03/08/2018, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrettDS

There’s really no reason to test ammonia or nitrite regularly on an established tank, but IMO it is still worth keeping an ammonia test kit on hand. If something happens and you get an ammonia spike it can quickly kill fish and corals, so it’s good to have to do a quick test if you notice a problem. It can also be useful as you’re quarantining new fish as often new tanks or TTM buckets don’t have time to cycle and ammonia can be a problem there as well.

Good point. I’ll just keep my API kit around for that.

I didn’t want to upgrade all the tests to something a little nicer. Just the nitrate. I use Red Sea for ca mag and alk.

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oceanfan913 · 03/09/2018, 09:55 AM

Same here, at the beginning I was still testing it regularly but once saw that it was stable and keeping everything low or at zero I only tested it every few months just out of curiosity. Never had a problem doing it that way.

tmccaffery · 03/09/2018, 10:45 AM

ATI kits can be off. However, they should be only used for basic test in my opinion like Ammonia; Nitrites since they don't need to be accurate in my opinion. However, things like calcium, alk, phosphates, etc should be handled with Salifert, Red Sea, Hanna to name a few good test kits. ATI good for backup though.

Indymann99 · 03/09/2018, 04:54 PM

Funny you should post this... My tank has been up for 10yrs and I havent tested the DT for Ammonia for 9yrs. HOWEVER I always test my mix tank water for ALL params... I use API tests for the basics (I find the drops easier), but use Red Sea Pro for the DT Nitrates Phos Calc and Mag.

Tastee · 03/10/2018, 01:34 AM

I am a new reefer (30 yrs fresh, 6 mths salt) and setup my tank (65g, Red Sea Reefer 250) as per the advice of my LFS who recommended Marine Pure. I have 40 or so balls in the return section of the sump. During the initial cycle I saw the usual Ammonia, then Nitrite, then Nitrate levels in the test kit, however my Nitrates dropped to 0 within 3 weeks and have stayed there ever since. I also use Polyfilter and a protein skimmer in the sump.

I did 10% water changes every 3 weeks during cycling but are now only occasionally changing enough water to allow me to clean filter sponges etc. I am still stocking the tank (currently 6x fish, 6x corals, 4x inverts) so are yet to settle on a final regime but expect it to be very low water change.

So in my limited experience so far I heartily recommend Marine Pure to support de-nitrifying bacteria and also Polyfilter. Hope this helps.

Tastee · 03/10/2018, 01:39 AM

Sorry, forgot to add that I dose Aquaforest component 1+2+3+ via an Apex DOS unit daily to maintain parameters.

Lsufan · 03/10/2018, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrettDS

There’s really no reason to test ammonia or nitrite regularly on an established tank, but IMO it is still worth keeping an ammonia test kit on hand. If something happens and you get an ammonia spike it can quickly kill fish and corals, so it’s good to have to do a quick test if you notice a problem. It can also be useful as you’re quarantining new fish as often new tanks or TTM buckets don’t have time to cycle and ammonia can be a problem there as well.

I fully agree with this. I don’t test ammonia after the cycle but it is good to have a kit on hand. I had a bad experience with ammonia.

My tank was over two years old & one day I noticed a couple corals not doing well, then a couple more & so on. I tried everything I could think of to see what was going on with the tank & I couldn’t figure it out. After fighting it for over a month I finally tested ammonia because I already did everything else I could think of. Sure enough ammonia was sky high & im not sure how anything was alive. Something obviously got into the tank & killed all of my beneficial bacteria. I wish I would have checked it sooner because I lost a wrasse & a couple corals, although I’m not sure how I didn’t loose a lot more.
I keep a test on hand for my qt tank, I just didn’t think to check

03/08/2018, 09:58 AM	#1
gtp0083 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: waddell, AZ Posts: 255	Still need to test for nitrite and ammonia? Tank is about 1 1/2 years old is it still necessary? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/08/2018, 10:05 AM	#3
mcgyvr Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: North Carolina Posts: 20,050	Heck no.. Ammonia and nitrite are really only to be used to give an indication of a tanks initial cycling process.. The only time you may register ammonia/nitrites after that would be following a large death in the tank and even then you are unlikely to see it.. No need.. __________________ Who me?

03/09/2018, 04:54 PM	#9
Indymann99 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Indianapolis Posts: 2,447	Funny you should post this... My tank has been up for 10yrs and I havent tested the DT for Ammonia for 9yrs. HOWEVER I always test my mix tank water for ALL params... I use API tests for the basics (I find the drops easier), but use Red Sea Pro for the DT Nitrates Phos Calc and Mag. __________________ 120g DT 100lbs LR / 200 lbs LS, 45g fuge, VectraM1 Return, Herbie drain, 4x RW-8, 2x AI Hydra 26 w AWM, ASM G2, Apex controller, Apex BoB w floats ATO

03/08/2018, 10:02 AM	#2
gtp0083 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: waddell, AZ Posts: 255	The reason I ask. I have been testing with API for a while. I also have the LFS test to backup my readings. Lately I have been testing high nitrates in the 20-40ppm with the API test kit and the LFS is testing 0. Thinking about upgrading to a better test system. Thought I would buy a nitrate only kit. Avoiding buying the ammonia and nitrite if I do t really need them anymore. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/08/2018, 10:16 AM	#4
gtp0083 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: waddell, AZ Posts: 255	That’s what I thought just wanted to confirm. Thanks!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

03/08/2018, 07:05 PM	#5
BrettDS Registered Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Orlando Posts: 1,109	There’s really no reason to test ammonia or nitrite regularly on an established tank, but IMO it is still worth keeping an ammonia test kit on hand. If something happens and you get an ammonia spike it can quickly kill fish and corals, so it’s good to have to do a quick test if you notice a problem. It can also be useful as you’re quarantining new fish as often new tanks or TTM buckets don’t have time to cycle and ammonia can be a problem there as well.

03/09/2018, 09:55 AM	#7
oceanfan913 Registered Member Join Date: Sep 2014 Posts: 55	Same here, at the beginning I was still testing it regularly but once saw that it was stable and keeping everything low or at zero I only tested it every few months just out of curiosity. Never had a problem doing it that way.

03/09/2018, 10:45 AM	#8
tmccaffery Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Posts: 170	ATI kits can be off. However, they should be only used for basic test in my opinion like Ammonia; Nitrites since they don't need to be accurate in my opinion. However, things like calcium, alk, phosphates, etc should be handled with Salifert, Red Sea, Hanna to name a few good test kits. ATI good for backup though.

03/10/2018, 01:34 AM	#10
Tastee Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 277	I am a new reefer (30 yrs fresh, 6 mths salt) and setup my tank (65g, Red Sea Reefer 250) as per the advice of my LFS who recommended Marine Pure. I have 40 or so balls in the return section of the sump. During the initial cycle I saw the usual Ammonia, then Nitrite, then Nitrate levels in the test kit, however my Nitrates dropped to 0 within 3 weeks and have stayed there ever since. I also use Polyfilter and a protein skimmer in the sump. I did 10% water changes every 3 weeks during cycling but are now only occasionally changing enough water to allow me to clean filter sponges etc. I am still stocking the tank (currently 6x fish, 6x corals, 4x inverts) so are yet to settle on a final regime but expect it to be very low water change. So in my limited experience so far I heartily recommend Marine Pure to support de-nitrifying bacteria and also Polyfilter. Hope this helps.

03/10/2018, 01:39 AM	#11
Tastee Registered Member Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Sydney Australia Posts: 277	Sorry, forgot to add that I dose Aquaforest component 1+2+3+ via an Apex DOS unit daily to maintain parameters.