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#1 |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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What Ro/di system for well water
I have a well and I am tired of buying distilled. What filters shoul I look at?
This is what I'm thinking. Stage 1: 5 micron sediment Stage 2: 1 micron sediment Stage 3: 5 carbon block Stage 4: 75gpd membrane Stage 5: silica blaster resin Stage 6: di resin Todd is right around 180-200 Do I need the silica blaster? |
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#2 | ||
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
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make sure you get a good 98% rejection rate membrane Depending on pressure, you may need a booster pump. |
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#3 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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Oh ya, dont be fooled with that title of silicabuster, its the expensive version of nuclear grade resin which can be found for the same price as regular resin.
Its a mix of cation resin and anion at a nuclear grade. Last edited by outy; 12/04/2017 at 01:42 AM. |
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#4 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bureau County Illinois
Posts: 5,406
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On my private well, I use 5M sediment, 1M carbon, 1M sediment followed by a 100GPD membrane and 2 DI canisters.
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#5 |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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Thanks all!
Why would inbred two carbon blocks for a well? I don put chlorine in my system. I figured there would be larger particles in my water so 2 sediment filters would do the trick. Is a Dow membrane good enough? |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 265
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I am on well water as well and have a Bulk Reef Supply 4 stage unit with a booster pump. I Would recommend all 1 micron filters with a high efficiency membrane with a high rejection (at least 97%). I get 2-4 TDS going into my DI resin. I would also recommend a booster pump to increase your GPH and the efficiency of the membrane.
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#7 | |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Are all your pre-filters sediment? Or is at least one a carbon block? I will have my unit hooked up after my water softener. I have iron removing salt |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 265
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It starts with a 1 micron sediment filter, then 1 micron carbon, then RO membrane then DI resin.
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#9 |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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Should I do two stages of DI resin?
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 20,050
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There is no need for a booster pump on a well as you can adjust the water pressure at the well pump via a simple turn of a screw.. (same for most homes too that aren't on a well.. you can just adjust your pressure regulator)
But you should see what it is and shoot for around 60PSI for optimal efficiency.. Too low and RO membrane performance decreases.. Are you using some spell checker too? Who is "Todd" and you are from Indiana.. why "Inbred" ? ![]()
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,426
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Here's the cool thing with these filters... they can be changed easily. Your worst case scenario is you just burn through DI resin a bit faster until you make an adjustment. If you find an extra sediment doesn't help, swap it out for a carbon, etc. I would recommend getting at least a double inline TDS meter if you are going to want to analyze this stuff. At a minimum, you want one sensor after your RO membrane and one after your DI resin. I like using the triple meter so I can add one after my prefilters too (before the DI resin).
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#12 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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Because well water is a complete wild card as to what is in it and to what level. All the water is different depending on geology.
There is no reason for two sediment filters, one will remove the required debris for use in membrane. 2 carbon blocks means you do not have to change out the one carbon block as fast. There is rarely a need for two sediment filters, no reason at all. |
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#13 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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#14 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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#15 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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#16 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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sediment filters are for large debris, it does not lower the TDS to the membrane. The main reason we use sediment filters is to protect membrane, that all.
If you use a single 1 micron, you just stopped anything larger from getting to membrane. putting another inline does nothing at all except waste money. |
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#17 | |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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#18 | |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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Quote:
If I go with two carbon blocks, what types should I go with? This will be a 6 stage setup |
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#19 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
On a side note, make sure your DI cartridge goes up and down not across when mounting it all up I just mounted my whole system to a piece of wood today, it makes working on and around it much easier. |
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#20 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Austin
Posts: 801
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#21 | |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
You could run 10 but its a waste of time and money. better to put the housing to use with carbon that actually effects the water quality. The second sediment filter does absolutely nothing. |
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#22 |
RC Sponsor
![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 14,173
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On a well, the one thing that would concern me is Co2 which is quite common in well water and shortens the life of cartridges. I am looking to move to Montana and will be on a well. One of the first thing I will be setting up is a large cistern with good aeration to remove excess Co2. That is where my RODI will draw from.
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Director Customer Support Royal Exclusiv USA For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745 Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476 |
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#23 | |
Garrett
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Indiana
Posts: 847
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Quote:
I am worried about C02 as well. |
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#24 |
Moved On
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: auburn CA
Posts: 4,021
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#25 |
RC Sponsor
![]() ![]() Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 14,173
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What outy said.
![]() It’s a big water storage tank. I wouldn’t necessarily leave it open to air. Instead, I would likely try to use a big air pump to like a Luft pump to pump air into a big air stone in the cistern. I’d use a vented lid on it so air can escape but leave leave the water exposed to the elements. The idea is that the gas exchange or introduction of fresh air/oxygen into the water “off gasses” the Co2 in the water. Because of the cold weather in Montana, I’d probably place the cistern in the ground with a shed or something over the top of it so freezing wasn’t a concern. I’d likely also make that the main water source for the house too so the water was constantly being replenished and if a well pump failed, I would still have plenty of fresh water on hand for the for the tank and the house. The plan would be to use something in the neighborhood of 1000 gallons for the cistern. This will be in addition to my 100 gallon mixing tank and 100 gallon RODI tank.
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Director Customer Support Royal Exclusiv USA For All Royal Exclusiv & Bubble King questions please refer to our Sponsor forum: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/fo...play.php?f=745 Current Tank Info: 480G display mixed reef, 90G sump, 90G refugium, 60G display refugium. Check out my build thread: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1783476 |
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