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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 145
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sump plumbing question
I am using the Bean Animal overflow which utilizes holes on the drain side.
1 full syphon 2 trickle back up 3 emergency backup I am sure many of you have used this overflow before. This is for my 40 Gallon Breeder tank which I will use for cuttlefish. When I do my 72 gallon I will use 1.5 inch bulkheads however on this I followed the diagrams from the Bean Animal site. In the diagram he uses three 1" bulkheads which is the same size I used. However he uses a 1" to 1.5" increaser and then uses all 1.5" pipe. I just want to know...Should I use 1.5" pipe or 1" pipe with my 1" bulkhead and why? I am assuming 1.5" will give more flow but will it be necessary for something as small as a 40 Breeder? THANK YOU!!! |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 20,050
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IMO 1" all the way is sufficient for a 40G or 72G tank..
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Delaware
Posts: 921
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1" bulkheads will do just fine on the 72 gallon.
On my 120 that I'm setting up, I designed it exactly as bean did. 1" bulkheads, and then 1.5" piping. |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Washington State
Posts: 1,746
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If you are less than 1,200 GPH 1" bulkheads work perfectly, if you are over 2,000 1.5 is probably the safer bet, that said Bean tested his 1" bulkheads up to 3,000 GPH without issue, using 1.5" pipe.
So you are fine using 1" pipe all around (estimating your flow) for a 75" 1.5" pipe is great with 1" bulkheads, but not necessarily a requirement. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
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How much size do you lose with the true union ball valves? It was my experience when setting up my last sump that I had to go one size higher on the ball and gate valves and then neck them down with reducers to get a 1" hole with the valve fully opened. With the price of the valves I want to make sure I get this right as well ($20 each).
So 1.65" drilled hole size 1" bulkheads (x3, slip/slip) 1" plumbing pipe/fittings 1.5" true union ball valves (x3, slip/slip)
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: French Riviera
Posts: 54
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You want a gate valve for fine tuning a siphon. Ball valves are better suited for on/off applications. You don't really need any valve at all on the open channel or emergency.
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#7 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
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Quote:
http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx
__________________
125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: French Riviera
Posts: 54
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Put a post in his thread and I gurantee he recommends a gate valve.
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#9 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 340
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Quote:
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Regards Michael 125g DT, Jebao DC9000, BA drain, 55g sump, Mixing: 2x32g Brutes, Panworld 30PX, 20l QT, RLSS R6I skimmer, 3 x Kessil A360WE, Neptune Apex. Current Tank Info: 2 clowns, 2 blue-green chromis, 2 Duncans and 2 GSPs |
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#10 |
NEO Reefer
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Hudson Ohio
Posts: 1,801
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For as much as I mess (adjust) my BA, which is virtually never, I used ball valves with no ill effects. I will say that the true union ball valves do seem to operate a lot smother than a regular one.
__________________
Mike My 120 Build: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2389417 Current Tank Info: 120g In-Wall | BA Overflow | 55g Sump | SWC Extreme 150 Skimmer | DIY ATO | 2 Jebao RW-8| Fluval SP6 | Photon 48v2 LED | GFO and Carbon |
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