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#26 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Huntington, WV
Posts: 143
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nice tank. i also would like to hear more about your background. a name brand of the insulation that you used would be great. thanks.
kert |
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#27 |
Reefer
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Central WA
Posts: 2,220
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In regards to the foam design, here is a site some of you may be interested in: http://www.biotopia.nl/ne/frames.html It's based out of the Netherlands as well so I can't understand a lick of it (maybe Tanu could translate a bit of it?)
![]() Anyway, cruise around the site and check out some of the tanks--INCREDIBLE when it's done right. I have yet to hear of anything deteriorating, but I'm not sure if SW would have a different reaction with the foam. |
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#28 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 420
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I also received an email on this topic, which I'll answer here, so the replies can be read by everyone interested.
Spray foam indeed. After the foam has hardened, the tank is rinsed thouroughly 3 times: fresh water, fresh water with table salt, fresh water again. Hereafter, no problem. Some people also seal the foam with epoxy. It is just ordinary 'hardware store' foam. I didn't really incorporate powerheads in the foam, but I have one pump chamber. In there are two pumps: one Tunze Turbelle and one no-name pump to achieve (with the help of pvc tubing) a bottom dwelling current. The sand used on the surface was just 'ordinary' crushed coral. These backdrops are created the easiest, when one applies the foam, rocks, sand and so on, when the acrylic sheets aren't glued in place yet. Better have the sheets lying on a table or so. When everything has hardened out, you glue the sheets in place and 'bond' them with a little extra foam. About the translation: which part do you want to have translated? It is the website of a LFS (no saltwater unfortunately!), with some pics of really cool aquascaped tanks, but I'm affraid they don't explain their techniques on this site. Tanu |
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#29 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Croatia,island Rab
Posts: 2,092
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Tanu,is this sarcophyton really blue or camera screw something.Sarcophyton belong to member Andrew
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#30 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 420
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I've seen that Sarco myself, it is just 'normal', but Andrew (16 year old schoolboy with quite some knowledge! cool!) uses 14.000 K Hqi, and he didn't know how to adjust the whitebalance...
So, it is a 'normal' Sarcophyton ![]() Tanu |
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#31 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Croatia,island Rab
Posts: 2,092
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WOW such a beautifull reef he have and only 16 year,excelent.
One more question if you dont mind. This 14 000 K bulb,is that new aqua connect bulb?Do you have some opinion about this bulb,good or bad? Thank you. |
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#32 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 420
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Indeed it is the 'new' (available for more than a year now) Aqua Connect bulb. Personally, I think everything looks too blue under it, so colors won't come out very clearly. He started reefkeeping about 2 years ago, and is quite serious!
In my observations, growth rate is also a little lower then under 10.000 K bulbs. When changing bulbs, Andrew switched back to Aqualine Buschke 10.000 K bulbs again. Tanu |
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#33 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 420
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![]() Yesterday I added a Regal Angel (Red Sea). ![]() ![]() ![]() It is somewhat visible on the right in the pic above... |
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#34 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 420
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And another one:
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#35 |
Make my Funk a P-Funk
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Electric Avenue
Posts: 5,092
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Nice.
Do you have any troule keeping everything in place? Do you have any trouble with things falling over?
__________________
**************** "Work hard, rock hard, eat hard, sleep hard, grow big, wear glasses if you need 'em." -- The Webb Wilder Credo -- don't go ninjin' nobody that don't need ninjin'! Current Tank Info: 220g custom plywood. SPS heavy with Sequence Hammerhead return with 4-Way OM. Tunze 6100, 6200 and Wavebox. 5000btu DIY Chiller. Lighting is 10K mh 250W / VHO Actinic Skimer - H&S A200-2x1260 |
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#36 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 180
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Now theres something to aim for when making a beautiful tank!
B-E-E-U-TIFUL!! ![]() |
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#37 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: MI
Posts: 468
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Awesome tank!
__________________
Happy to be a card carrying member of the Euro-Reef owners club! Current Tank Info: 65 gal |
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#38 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 12,924
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looking good man!
Lunchbucket
__________________
Trying to lose weight by walking is like trying to bake a cake w/ a cigarette lighter - Lunchbucket - "Nancy-Boy Extraordinaire" - maxxII- Current Tank Info: 58gal Oceanic RR, 2x400w MH (20k XM and 10k XM), Deltec PF601 Ca Rx, Deltec AP701 skimmer, mag950 return, iwaki 55rlt w/ an Oceansmotions 4-way unit, Tunze 7300 and 6000 each w/ controller, fluidized po4 rx |
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#39 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Wichita Kansas
Posts: 1,872
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Very nice setup indeed! Im curious about the Opti White glass, I have built a few glass tanks myself and remember the option being around for a while to get OptiWhite but it was a new thing over here in the states and I think its no longer manufactured atleast in the US?!?! Im curious if you have seen Starfire glass what your opinion to the comparison of Starfire versus Optiwhite...from what I have seen you are the first tank I have seen using Optiwhite glass...Yes? No?
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#40 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Maryland
Posts: 329
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hows that majestic angel doing in the reef? any problems with LPS?
BTW Nice Tank! -abbey |
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#41 |
Pro builder/aquarist hack
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA)
Posts: 5,125
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The Dow "Great Stuff" works great for this. Any hardware store will have it.
I used about a case of it to secure a filter bed under a 2000g exhibit. The took the tank down 2 years later and are still cursing me. They had to GRIND it out. ![]() I like aragocrete for this too. Both are reefsafe when cured. |
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#42 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lawndale, NC
Posts: 24
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H20ENG -
What type of curing process do you use to make the foam reef safe? |
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#43 |
Pro builder/aquarist hack
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA)
Posts: 5,125
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Basically just let it dry well. It is usually thoroughly dry the next day, but give it a few to be sure. As mentioned above (I think, I just read 2 or 3 threads on the subject), you could cure it for a few days in freshwater, then saltwater, etc.
Anytime I've used it, it was a couple of days dry, then fillerup. The aragocrete needs to be cured for several weeks in freshwater to neutralize the high pH. Do a waterchange every couple of days, til it no longer rises above 8ish. HTH Chris |
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#44 |
Awaiting Email Confirmation
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 415
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in regards to the foam background, there is another european manufacturer of a very similar background - I came across their site when I kept cichlid tanks. If I can find the URL, I will post it. To my knowledge, they did not make anything other than backgrounds for freshwater biotopes - but the detail of these things is mindblowing.
-Ben |
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#45 |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: My office chair
Posts: 2,036
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Great tank.
Does regluing that glass bother you??? I think that would always be in the back of my mind. ![]()
__________________
The Institute for Incomplete Studies found that 3 out of 4 Current Tank Info: 120 in wall in progress |
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#46 | |
Premium Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Staten Island - NYC
Posts: 198
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Quote:
__________________
He who laughs last, thinks slowest. Brooklyn Aquarium Society Current Tank Info: 220 quarter-round FW, 15 Designer fw grow-out, 55 reef |
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#47 | |
Awaiting Email Confirmation
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 415
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Quote:
-ben |
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#48 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Lawndale, NC
Posts: 24
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Thanks for the reply Chris. I may give the foam a try in the new aquarium I'm planning.
I do have one other question for you. Can the foam be painted? I would like to use a UV resistant paint, especially on the areas exposed to direct lighting (at least those areas not covered by embedded sand, gravel, rock etc. ) Corbin |
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#49 |
Pro builder/aquarist hack
![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: NORCAL (Vacaville, CA)
Posts: 5,125
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Paint will work fine, or a thin paste of cement and sand would be even better. Sort of an aragocrete "paint".
This is how they put some artificial coralline on fake rockwork at public aquariums. I would paint it or cover it somehow. |
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#50 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Turkey
Posts: 14
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cool
Gorgeous work!
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