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Old 06/17/2007, 10:10 PM   #1
customcolor
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Custom Colors 125 Build

finaly i am able to start my build of the 125 i traded for. i traded a all glass 75rr tank and the custom stand i made for it for this tank

its a allglass 125 and stand. i thought it was a far trade since i wanted to upgrade my 55 salt to bigger and better. i have done lots of reading here on rc and now im puting what i have learned into this tank. plus lots of diys .

some people may wonder y i dont have a fish related name here on rc so i will show u what i do on the side. i custom paint cars on the side. this car took a first at a show here in kaukauna wi in early june. i was so freeken happy





well i guess i should get back to why im here. im starting with the stand since that will alow for plumming and stuff to be placed in the right spots i hope. here are some pics of the stand in the steps i have done so far


step 1




step 2



step 3



side view




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Old 06/17/2007, 10:16 PM   #2
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just giving all of you where everyting will go


this where in the house it will end up




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Old 06/17/2007, 11:13 PM   #3
Bri Guy
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Congrats on the start so far!

I like all the doors in the stand that will be nice for access, and the canopy looks good too.

That 15" will give the tank a good turbulent wave effect

Ill follow the build along.


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Old 06/17/2007, 11:16 PM   #4
hobbzz
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Looks like fun!


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Old 06/17/2007, 11:18 PM   #5
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First off the car looks freaking great, but I think adding the sub woofer to the stand will bother the fish when you power it up, but I can be wrong.


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Old 06/18/2007, 12:31 AM   #6
Am4nn
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Can't wait to see the tank up and running , post more pictures of the instalation process if you can.


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Old 06/18/2007, 07:23 AM   #7
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15" sub in the stand?? I would think the vibration from it would stress them out. I can just see you watching Independence Day, and then Whitehouse blow up and all the fish run into their rocks.


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Old 06/18/2007, 10:09 AM   #8
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i hope you dont drive that honda!


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Old 06/18/2007, 11:18 AM   #9
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I wouldn't put the sub in the stand because they say kocking on the glass sounds like sonic booms to the fish. If this is true that sub will probably put them in cardiac arrest by the end of the first action flick.


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Old 06/18/2007, 05:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by BryanJ
I wouldn't put the sub in the stand because they say kocking on the glass sounds like sonic booms to the fish. If this is true that sub will probably put them in cardiac arrest by the end of the first action flick.
to clear up abouth the 15" sub: first its already in an encloser, you can see it in the pic of where the stand is going. second the sub faces the wall already(better sound that way) so it wont fire at the stand. third i will be puting inslation around the sub box so vibrations will not efect the stand. forth i have done this with the same sub to a 20 high fresh tank befor with the stand right on the box with no problems. plus im trying to hide the big sub.


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Old 06/18/2007, 05:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by MdM31
i hope you dont drive that honda!
nope that be my cuz's car


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Old 06/18/2007, 08:47 PM   #12
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Good start! Can't wait to see the end!!! I'm following!!!


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Old 06/19/2007, 12:06 AM   #13
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Very cool, I wish I could start over it is so much fun to build. By the way really like your avitar must be one of my favorite movies. Maybe someday we could talk about painting my Camaro.


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Old 06/19/2007, 04:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by mako56
Very cool, I wish I could start over it is so much fun to build. By the way really like your avitar must be one of my favorite movies. Maybe someday we could talk about painting my Camaro.
thanks, lots of people like my avitar. what can i say but that im old school. i still love the dark crystal! and about your Camaro $1000 starting price.


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Old 06/22/2007, 07:35 PM   #15
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well i got some more done this past week. i had to try to figure out how to lift the canopy befor i did the back sides. here of course is more pics for your viewing pleasure. by the way i suck at spelling so if i misspell, forgive me!
here i finished the trim on the top



now open



removeable panle on this side only so i can get to some of the closed loop easer


now here you go this is how im able to lift the canopy easyer. the are from a roof rack from the del sol above that was in the trunk. i will be putting a rubber boot on them so they may not rust as fast and so if they leak in due time the fluid in them will not go into the tank. plus i would like to say it was a pain in the @$$ to find just the right spot to put thes in so they would stay up. it took me about 2 hours and tons of trys to find the right spot.



here it is from the outside opened



i will be doing more trim on it tonight so look again soon for pics with all trimming done.


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Old 06/24/2007, 07:39 PM   #16
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yaaaa! i got all the wood work done on the stand! all the trim is done and some wood filler is on(all the light spots). now it will need lots of sanding and some filler primer so i can level the cheep ply wood i got from work. after i sand that it will be ready for paint. i will be spraying it a satin black so it will match our coffee table. on all the shelfs and tops on the sides will also match the coffee table. the table top is all slate peices. so yes i will be power grabing slate pieces all over this tanks stand.
well here we go this is what it looks like with all the trim done



side1


back with the frame for the canopy



other side with a stand in sub(its the other one out of the pair that i use in the shop)



frount to show the fit of the sub box



i but a full sheet of 3/4 plywood on the bottom so that it may spread out the 1400+lbs of weight over the old floor.plus i put a floor brace in the basement befor i took the 75 down so i could level it better and to allso support the 3/4 ton tank.




like i said befor i will be puting insolation all around the sub box so the sound will not effect the tank.


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Old 06/24/2007, 08:33 PM   #17
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Love the canopy. Awesome job. Can't wait to see it all finished


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Old 06/25/2007, 07:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Brandan
Love the canopy. Awesome job. Can't wait to see it all finished
thanks


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Old 07/06/2007, 12:05 AM   #19
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I too love the canopy. I plan to cut out overflow ports on the back and attach a glass overflow on the back. I appreciate your ideas of hiding the back that way. How much do you think the liftable portion of the canopy with lights etc will be once set up?


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Old 07/06/2007, 01:57 PM   #20
customcolor
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i would think it would be about maybe 40lbs or so. i put lifting shocks on it cuz it was heavy to lift up from the frount. that was alot of weight to lift from one spot. the canopy just stays up now but when i put in the lights i may have to put a locking hinge on it to keep it up when i need to get into the tank, but the shocks will help ALOT to lift up the whole 6' of canopy.
other than that the only up date i have is that i have ben doing lots of sanding and filling to get the cheep ply to go smooth for when i paint it. its taking longer than i thought it would, but the finish product will be sweet i hope.


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PLEASE DONT USE GREAT STUFF (THE YELLOW STUFF) IN YOUR TANK........USE POND FOAM (THE BLACK STUFF).. I BEG YOU!

Great stuff====$5 a can
24-48 hour cure
Epoxy to cover it====little as $5 for small projects or up to $100+ for larger projects
and another 24-48 hour cure
I hope you covered it well cuz if you didnt it will start to break down in a few months
sand is another added cost to cover up the yellow.

Pond foams====$9-$15 a can
24-48 hour cure
DONE! You can cover it with sand if you want to (YOU DONT HAVE TO) though but thats added cost again

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Old 07/09/2007, 07:31 PM   #21
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whell i got all the painting don and it looks just the perfect finish to match our coffee table. i used a high temp bar-b-q black even though i dont need it to be high temp it was the finish i was looking for. the paint was rust o leum oil base paint and was thin enough to spray though my sata spray gun. that is how i got it to lay flat. plus all the filler primer (the filler primer is called slick sand, its the same stuff i use on the cars i paint) plus alittle light weight body fillerhelped alot too. whell here is some more pics for your computer to download so u can see (sorry i do have lots of pics)
the stand its self



the canopy(i took the pic upside down so u can see it right side up)



inside the canopy the holes are cut for two computer fans pushing air out wile i have 2 computer fans pushing air up into the canopy from the cooler basement behind the stand pumped up to the canopy. i figured this would help cool the tank off easyer. the holes are over where the 175 halides will be so i shouldnt have any light escape neather.




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Old 07/10/2007, 11:02 AM   #22
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Looks great! I would like to see how you plan to attach the 175MH such that light will not escape. Though I do very much encourage heat escape out the top.

Also, I find it interesting that you're said you were going to push air up from the basement. Are you going to channel that up to your canopy or just let it work its way up from the floor. Heat tends to rise and cooler air tends to sink. I think you might want to channel that air from the basement via ducting or even say something like dryer ducting based upon the use of computer fans. Otherwise I don't see that the cool basement air won't get much passed the back side of the open stand.

Also, my house tends to provide enough dust to coat the canopy supply fans often (I push air in and let it out the open back). I don't know what your basement is like but it's probably vented from outside. I might consider putting some sort of filter in front of the basement (supply) fans to minimize dust.

Where are you planning on placing your MH ballasts?

I've got an oceanic 125 out in my garage so I'm taking in all the planning tips I can.


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Old 07/10/2007, 11:34 AM   #23
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looking very good


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Old 07/10/2007, 05:26 PM   #24
customcolor
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Quote:
Originally posted by boviac
Looks great! I would like to see how you plan to attach the 175MH such that light will not escape. Though I do very much encourage heat escape out the top.

Also, I find it interesting that you're said you were going to push air up from the basement. Are you going to channel that up to your canopy or just let it work its way up from the floor. Heat tends to rise and cooler air tends to sink. I think you might want to channel that air from the basement via ducting or even say something like dryer ducting based upon the use of computer fans. Otherwise I don't see that the cool basement air won't get much passed the back side of the open stand.

Also, my house tends to provide enough dust to coat the canopy supply fans often (I push air in and let it out the open back). I don't know what your basement is like but it's probably vented from outside. I might consider putting some sort of filter in front of the basement (supply) fans to minimize dust.

Where are you planning on placing your MH ballasts?

I've got an oceanic 125 out in my garage so I'm taking in all the planning tips I can.
the halide reflectors will be right under the holes so the light that may, if any will be very little.
yes i was planing on using ducting to channel the cool air from the basement floor to the back of the canopy. that should give me a good edge on the heat, well atleast more of an edge than most.
i didnt think of putting a filter pad infront of the fan. great idea i will have to do that. clean air is healty air.
last questions answer will have to be the basement also. my thought is to try to keep most of the heat produsing items in the basement if i can. i think i can run 4-6 feet of wire to the halides from the ballests with out a problem.


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Old 07/10/2007, 08:46 PM   #25
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Looking good, Dave! Love that finish on the canopy!


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