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03/25/2010, 05:35 PM | #251 | |
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as for landscaping... please dont laugh, i am thinking i want to try and use acrylic sheets to make "sweeping waves and arches", something like a 3D infiniti symbol, something 3D... not sure at all... not sure if i can even form the acrylic sheets, regarding humidity, were planning to add a "Heat Recovery Ventilator" unit to the home at some point, not sure if this will be the fix all... this will be a BB with will be very little sand, just enough to give some texture from the sea of black great idea about the false back, thanks! have to compile all these ideas together and see which will work out best |
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03/25/2010, 05:43 PM | #252 | |
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i like mangroves, i like green petals, actually we have lots of orchids in the house probably not helping with the humidity issue, have to get rid of the redundants hows your rock scaping coming along?!! cant wait to see what you come up with |
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03/26/2010, 04:19 AM | #253 |
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I've seen some who create an acrylic "pathway" and ziptie small liverock to create a "floating" architectural reef. Sounds like an excellent idea for your tank.
Here is an example of one idea: |
03/26/2010, 04:19 AM | #254 |
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03/26/2010, 05:56 AM | #255 |
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Tank is jaw dropping! Love your attention to detail on this build! I love the island placement as well. Cant wait to see this tank up and running!
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Shawna Current Tank Info: 180 gallon in wall,30 gallon sump,mag 18 pump ran external.T5 Nova Extreme Pro lighting,BRS GFO/Carbon reactor,Octopus skimmer,Coralife125 super skimmer. |
03/27/2010, 08:11 AM | #256 | ||
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going to begin the basement framing soon, so there wont be anything exciting for a while... besides receiving some new toys took this picture becuase my wife pointed the difference to me, i now can see.... just thought it was interesting |
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03/27/2010, 10:02 AM | #258 |
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okay to the basement with you and get the floor supported !
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This hobby certainly can put you in some weird positions ! Dave Current Tank Info: 40 freshwater,25saltwater 2000 gallons ,enough tanks for an army ? |
03/27/2010, 12:16 PM | #259 |
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Starphire front and sides, regular glass on back.
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People say cars are a bad investment. Those people don't have reef tanks. Current Tank Info: 120, Radion Gen 2 Pro x 2 |
03/27/2010, 01:30 PM | #260 | |
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03/27/2010, 01:45 PM | #261 | |
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she says its looks more greenish, but i think its looks more frosted, what do i know about colors
hi mark, you are correct about the starphire, i know no difference until my wife pointed it out, and am now stuck noticing it, seems to be more pronouce as someone mentioned with thicker glass you see more of the difference... Quote:
but i did manage to create this drawing, its a very rough sketch, since we want a humidity sealed fish room i figure the room framing can aid to support the fish tank instead, doing it this way i have no obstruction in the room to place things... i think it should work, being that the sytrofoam didnt even get crushed under 500lbs due to distrubtion of weight i figure if i distrubute the weight on lots of 2x4s(maybe 2x6?) that i dont need to support directly under the tank, let me know what you guys/gals think as i tend to do things wrong the first time.. and the second time |
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03/27/2010, 01:59 PM | #262 |
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I can't wait to see this thing filled and in action.....
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03/27/2010, 03:48 PM | #263 |
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+1 this tank is pure epic goodness lol
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Current Tank info:200 DD FOWLR.. 1.Powder blue tang 1.Cardinalfish 2.Maroon clowns 1.Yellow Blotch Rabbit 1.Blue Face Angel 1.Blonde Naso tang 1.Purple Tang 1.Latticed Butterfly 1.Starry Blenny |
03/27/2010, 06:44 PM | #264 |
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Man you ain't kiddin......
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03/27/2010, 07:29 PM | #265 |
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Great ideas. Thanks for sharing.
I love the vortech dry box but like said it may not be optimal flow. |
03/27/2010, 07:35 PM | #266 |
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Maybe you would get more help with the technical stuff in the DIY section.
We all just want you to fill it! Fill it!!!
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Thanks for the help! Lizz 29g DT, 15g sump/fuge Current Tank Info: 29g DT, 15g sump, 30 lbs LR, 3" LS, 4x24W T5 |
03/28/2010, 12:38 PM | #267 |
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How tall is your basement ceiling?
My tank is starphire glass, be careful b/c it does scratch easier than normal glass. It's worth every penny to have the clearer visual though. |
03/28/2010, 12:43 PM | #268 |
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here's my question before responding to the bracing deal....when was your house built?
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“Sometimes it's necessary to go a long distance out of the way in order to come back a short distance correctly” ~ Edward Albee, The Zoo Story |
03/28/2010, 03:21 PM | #269 | ||||
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too bad there wasnt a number scale for these type of things
me too, but i think there is another obstacle coming up sortly... wow, thanks you so much! i hope it turns out ok Quote:
i am playing with the mp40s as of now in a 10gal, cant not really study its flow in such a small tank, so hopefully there is an option built in this setup that will give me adequate flow i find the new driver to be soooo confusing as it uses colors for different modes, pink and light pink! arg! i also find it to be loud, especially in nutrient export mode(two rapid short pulses), i think the dry box will make them sound even louder... and also, like many of you have pointed out, these do get hot, and it seem to keep the 10gal water very warm, yikes! Quote:
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thanks for the heads up, are you using any special type of a "magfloat", ones especially made for starphire? Quote:
cant wait to hear what you think i did manage to seal up some hair line cracks on the basement walls today, this is going way too slow i was reading on how to remodel the basement and there are a ton of ways to do it, so i am now left confused more than ever... Last edited by solRNY; 03/28/2010 at 03:33 PM. |
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03/28/2010, 11:07 PM | #270 |
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ok...2004 is good as far as the construction being new...here's the thing that worries me...over the course of the years with the tank being in the center of the floor, and as the floor settles, which, in older houses, most of the settling has already taken place, you are going to get fluctuations in the leveling of the tank itself. Where the beams you plan on adding might be sufficient, in fact, they probably are...the tank is not sitting on a support wall and is a good deal away from the support beams. I understand your desire of wanting to not break up space in the basement...believe me, i didn't want to either...
the 120g is sitting on a support wall...but the front is not...and rather than have to deal with it later...years later...although the effects of settling, even gradually will start to show on your water line at the top of the tank...i decided to be safe than sorry. So we went with the support beam in the basement, as well as adding to the existing beams directly underneath. Ok, so this was a month ago. We had to adjust the bracing once already...and with a full tank? Not so easy. I would hate to see the slightest bit of settling disrupt the integrity of how the tank sat... if you can live with it... i'd brace it...if not..the next best thing would be to do as you illustrated and also reinforce the crossbeams directly under the tank that run in the opposite direction. I also would recommend implementing "jacks" (basically 1x4's angled and crossed) at alternating intersections under the tank. if you can email me a workable drawing (like the one you posted) i may be able to illustrate what i mean if what i just said makes no sense to anyone but me....lol.
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“Sometimes it's necessary to go a long distance out of the way in order to come back a short distance correctly” ~ Edward Albee, The Zoo Story |
04/09/2010, 01:22 AM | #271 |
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would love to see some updates and pictures
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04/09/2010, 06:14 AM | #272 | |
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It's probably not going to be a problem, assuming they're correctly sized and correctly blocked. Modern home construction techniques are vastly more stable (i.e. resistant to sagging, going out of level, etc) than anything typically built in the past. My home is typical of an "old" home in that it has a post-and-beam frame that was assembled from gigantic raw lumber, and a mosty-dry set stone foundation. It shows - the house is crooked. A modern home built with composite beams and a stable foundation shouldn't change over time to anywhere near the same degree. Then again, many modern homes aren't nearly built to code, so you never know. . .
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Inconveniencing marine life since 1992 "It is my personal belief that reef aquaria should be thriving communities of biodiversity, representative of their wild counterparts, and not merely collections of pretty specimens growing on tidy clean rock shelves covered in purple coralline algae." (Eric Borneman) |
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04/10/2010, 03:44 AM | #273 |
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I use a hammerhead float magnet for glass. Just be sure to change out the velcro relatively often so you don't have calcarious stuff growing in it that will cause the scratches. And do not let sand get in the velcro as you clean.
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04/10/2010, 07:10 AM | #274 | |||
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we will install 4x 16'1/3" engineer ibeams(violet) to those exiting(gray), trying to do all the calculation but its soo confusing, maybe after some more coffee the brain cells will start working i finally found the datasheet, the ibeams are the nordic 11 7/8 NI-40X: http://www.zytechtruss.com/downloads...evaluation.pdf Quote:
i do agree with homes not being built to code as i can see some evidence of that, i tend to think the builder and inspector often have lunch together... Quote:
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04/10/2010, 07:29 AM | #275 |
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this is great news...i'm so glad you got in touch with someone! that is exactly what i was talking about...and the I beams in illustration #1 would also be my recommendation. I know it's alot of extra work...but in the future, you will be glad you did it!
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“Sometimes it's necessary to go a long distance out of the way in order to come back a short distance correctly” ~ Edward Albee, The Zoo Story |
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