Newbie Corner Feedback Thread - Page 39

WaterKeeper · 04/27/2009, 06:47 AM

Thanks, I've got a guest author this month and I'm sure you'll like his article too.

SeanT · 05/14/2009, 01:33 PM

Tom,
I think you left out an important aspect of the benefits of a properly sized UV.
That when plumbed to the skimmers intake, they can improve the skimmers effectiveness.
Sean

PS I'm still working on that sand.

p7seas · 12/28/2009, 06:40 PM

hello, i've just read your first article on filtration.Being new to the hobby I'm left with questions.You suggest curing live rock in shallow pans, giving frequent water changes.Everything you advise makes perfect sense,but I just don't have the room.I plan on using all live rock in my tank.When my rock arrives,can i go through the steps you lay out,only keeping the rock in the tank?Changing the water when ammonia levels go too high?Thanks for any advise you can give.

p7seas · 12/28/2009, 07:10 PM

Hello,can sand straight from the ocean be used as my sand bed? Or is this type of sand too polluted? Thanks

dots · 12/28/2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p7seas

hello, i've just read your first article on filtration.Being new to the hobby I'm left with questions.You suggest curing live rock in shallow pans, giving frequent water changes.Everything you advise makes perfect sense,but I just don't have the room.I plan on using all live rock in my tank.When my rock arrives,can i go through the steps you lay out,only keeping the rock in the tank?Changing the water when ammonia levels go too high?Thanks for any advise you can give.

Feel free to start new threads with these relevant questions, they could go unanswered or missed here. I pm'd you regarding your sand question already, feel free to pm me on any other questions you may have.

-Doug

rosreef · 03/25/2010, 08:35 PM

Brand new to Reef Central, and wanted to thank you for giving me some really good beginners info. I have a good friend who has re-introduced me to marine aquariums. Had a 55 gallon many yrs ago, and now looking to update.
So many changes, and so much to learn. Looking to purchase a 75 gallon...
Cheers! rosreef

Aquarist007 · 03/25/2010, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rosreef

Brand new to Reef Central, and wanted to thank you for giving me some really good beginners info. I have a good friend who has re-introduced me to marine aquariums. Had a 55 gallon many yrs ago, and now looking to update.
So many changes, and so much to learn. Looking to purchase a 75 gallon...
Cheers! rosreef

To Reef Central
be sure to check in on our welcome thread

nube · 03/26/2010, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeanT

Tom,
I think you left out an important aspect of the benefits of a properly sized UV.
That when plumbed to the skimmers intake, they can improve the skimmers effectiveness.
Sean

Sean, I have posted the question below on a few forums but haven't gotten what I would call any "quality" answers. I hope you can shed more light on this!!! Thanks in advance

I'm setting up a 90Gal FOWLR tank with sump in basement. I am going to have two drain lines coming from the display tank to the sump. My question is this: Can I plumb a UV lite on one of the drain lines coming from the display tank going to the sump? If not WHY NOT. I understand the UV must have a given flow rate through it. If this is doable would it be better dumping into the refuge section or the skimmer section? The reason I'd like to do this is to keep head loss down for the return line so as to achieve a better flow rate.

ramtmac · 03/26/2010, 07:53 PM

I don't like how I cant scroll back more than 4 pages. It's strange. It's nice to be able to scroll back and look at all previous posts without having to use google.

Aquarist007 · 03/26/2010, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nube

Sean, I have posted the question below on a few forums but haven't gotten what I would call any "quality" answers. I hope you can shed more light on this!!! Thanks in advance

I'm setting up a 90Gal FOWLR tank with sump in basement. I am going to have two drain lines coming from the display tank to the sump. My question is this: Can I plumb a UV lite on one of the drain lines coming from the display tank going to the sump? If not WHY NOT. I understand the UV must have a given flow rate through it. If this is doable would it be better dumping into the refuge section or the skimmer section? The reason I'd like to do this is to keep head loss down for the return line so as to achieve a better flow rate.

I can't see why you can't do that if you plumb a ball valve into the line to control the flow through it. That way you are just diverting the drain slow through the uv sterilizer and that should not affect the overall drain flow to the sump and thus not affect head pressure on the return lines.
Since it will be on the drain lines it should have no adverse affects on the refugium drain if it is more convenient for you to install it there---again I would let the unit have its own control via a ball valve.

Aquarist007 · 03/26/2010, 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ramtmac

I don't like how I cant scroll back more than 4 pages. It's strange. It's nice to be able to scroll back and look at all previous posts without having to use google.

the rc gods want you to read every word of every post

SeanT · 03/26/2010, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nube

Sean, I have posted the question below on a few forums but haven't gotten what I would call any "quality" answers. I hope you can shed more light on this!!! Thanks in advance

I'm setting up a 90Gal FOWLR tank with sump in basement. I am going to have two drain lines coming from the display tank to the sump. My question is this: Can I plumb a UV lite on one of the drain lines coming from the display tank going to the sump? If not WHY NOT. I understand the UV must have a given flow rate through it. If this is doable would it be better dumping into the refuge section or the skimmer section? The reason I'd like to do this is to keep head loss down for the return line so as to achieve a better flow rate.

You certainly can do that without issue.
The reason I recommend to feed the ouput of your UV to your skimmers intake, or near where your skimmers feed pump is, is for the added benefit of improved skimming results you get from a UV.

You get the improved skimming through ionization...the breaking down of long (heavier) molecules) into shorter (lighter) molecules which are easier to skim out.

You aren't going to go from a few ounces of skimmate to a few gallons a day or anything, but it does add up over time though.

Regards,
SeanT

kelp47 · 04/06/2010, 03:46 PM

I'm a newbie to RC, and I'm currently in the planning stage of a new reef tank. I have been doing a lot of research and now an idea of what I want. Now I'm working on putting together a list of all of the components I'll need and looking at my options--starting with the tank. I've read about all the considerations, but what I would like to know is if anyone can suggest a few good, reliable brands and stores. Its seems that anyone can put up a website and sell things these days, so I want to be sure I buy a high-quality tank from a reputable dealer. I haven't decided on the exact size, but I know it will be between 100 and 200 gallons, and I'll probably go with glass, though that's not set in stone. I know you may have restrictions about promoting certain brands on the forum, but I thought I'd ask. If nothing else, maybe I can find out who not to use. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Aquarist007 · 04/06/2010, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelp47

I'm a newbie to RC, and I'm currently in the planning stage of a new reef tank. I have been doing a lot of research and now an idea of what I want. Now I'm working on putting together a list of all of the components I'll need and looking at my options--starting with the tank. I've read about all the considerations, but what I would like to know is if anyone can suggest a few good, reliable brands and stores. Its seems that anyone can put up a website and sell things these days, so I want to be sure I buy a high-quality tank from a reputable dealer. I haven't decided on the exact size, but I know it will be between 100 and 200 gallons, and I'll probably go with glass, though that's not set in stone. I know you may have restrictions about promoting certain brands on the forum, but I thought I'd ask. If nothing else, maybe I can find out who not to use. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

To Reef Central

suggest you try the reef clubs forum for a local reef club in your area. they will be able to advise you where to deal

charo · 08/31/2010, 01:19 PM

very helpful articles, if you add cured rock to new tank will that not start the cycle?

kimberlee · 10/05/2010, 10:36 AM

As told, I'll now ask someone to give me the math equation to determine my mag. level using the cal. test results?

Aquarist007 · 10/05/2010, 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charo

very helpful articles, if you add cured rock to new tank will that not start the cycle?

You have to distinguish between the two processes or curing and cycling
Curing is the process whereby dead stuff falls off the reef rock and gets converted into ammonia and other compounds
This causes the bacteria in and on the reef rock to increase their numbers or cycle.
Curing of rock in your tank is usually a one time process
Cycling of bacteria is an on going process. Every time you increase the bioload in your tank--for eg add a fish---then the bacteria cycle or increase their numbers to take care of the new bioload

So to answer your question---if the live rock was cured in an existing tank then some bacteria would have cycled on it. Therefore it would probably not cause an ammonia spike which is what I think you are asking
It would cycle of course if there was a bigger bioload then the tank the rock came from.

brezway · 04/10/2011, 08:50 PM

Ok here we go i have a 300 gal FOWLR and it has been up and doing well for 18 months. I now have a very large hair algae outbreak and i am not sure what to do. I have had salt water for almost 9 yrs and have never come across this problem. any help would be wonderful and if you need anymore information please ask. Thank you for your help..!!! Jimmy

SeanT · 04/10/2011, 09:44 PM

I would recommend "cooking" your rock.

Here is the process...and it works!

The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible.

The first step to this is commitment.
You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank.
It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done.

The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system.
In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job.

So basically you need tubs to hold the rock.

Equipment needed.
1. Dedication.
2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges.
3. A few powerheads.
4. Plenty of buckets.
5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level."
6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks.
Here are the steps:

1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW.
2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives.
3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this.
4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full.
5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms.
6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third.
7. Place rock in the tub.
8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown.
9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water.
10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness.
11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank.
12. Wait.
13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week.
What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in.
First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before.
Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk.
Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub..
Repeat for all your rocks.
Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose.
Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover.
Wait again until the next water change.
You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing.
At times the stench was so strong I gagged.

How it works:

Some FAQ's.
When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any?
I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out.
When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once.

Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process?
I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus.

I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it.
There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now.
Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course.

And a few last minute tidbits I remembered.
Your coralline will die back, recede etc.
My thoughts on this are GREAT!
Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc.
Coralline will grow back.
Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off.
Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful.

Jenny_C · 01/01/2014, 06:00 PM

Commenting on something in the Tank Selection article.

Wondering if this is a typo:
"Saltwater fish need far more room; they tend to be more active than marine fish, and some specimens can grow twice as large as a full-grown Oscar."

Did you mean more active than freshwater fish?

Forgive me if I am off the track.

SFKINNC · 09/09/2017, 09:37 AM

Because of space restrictions, I have room for a tank no more than 2 feet wide. I am considering a Coralife 32. I don't want to go smaller, or too much taller. I need suggesttions on what might be appropriate equipment, setup, etc. to maximize success with this prticular tank, or alternative ideas that would fit my space and look as good.

04/27/2009, 06:47 AM	#951
WaterKeeper Bogus Information Expert Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 16,147	Thanks, I've got a guest author this month and I'm sure you'll like his article too. __________________ "Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation" Tom Current Tank Info: 130 Now out of service and a 29

05/14/2009, 01:33 PM	#952
SeanT Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Wilmington, North Carolina Posts: 13,860	Tom, I think you left out an important aspect of the benefits of a properly sized UV. That when plumbed to the skimmers intake, they can improve the skimmers effectiveness. Sean PS I'm still working on that sand. __________________ My tank was cool. Current Tank Info: Barebottom (the tank not me...at least not at the moment).

12/28/2009, 06:40 PM	#953
p7seas Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 45	good reading,but......... hello, i've just read your first article on filtration.Being new to the hobby I'm left with questions.You suggest curing live rock in shallow pans, giving frequent water changes.Everything you advise makes perfect sense,but I just don't have the room.I plan on using all live rock in my tank.When my rock arrives,can i go through the steps you lay out,only keeping the rock in the tank?Changing the water when ammonia levels go too high?Thanks for any advise you can give.

12/28/2009, 07:10 PM	#954
p7seas Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 45	live sand Hello,can sand straight from the ocean be used as my sand bed? Or is this type of sand too polluted? Thanks

03/25/2010, 08:35 PM	#956
rosreef Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Florida Posts: 1	Appreciative Newbie! Brand new to Reef Central, and wanted to thank you for giving me some really good beginners info. I have a good friend who has re-introduced me to marine aquariums. Had a 55 gallon many yrs ago, and now looking to update. So many changes, and so much to learn. Looking to purchase a 75 gallon... Cheers! rosreef

03/26/2010, 07:53 PM	#959
ramtmac Registered Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 407	I don't like how I cant scroll back more than 4 pages. It's strange. It's nice to be able to scroll back and look at all previous posts without having to use google.

04/06/2010, 03:46 PM	#963
kelp47 Registered Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central Alabama Posts: 473	I'm a newbie to RC, and I'm currently in the planning stage of a new reef tank. I have been doing a lot of research and now an idea of what I want. Now I'm working on putting together a list of all of the components I'll need and looking at my options--starting with the tank. I've read about all the considerations, but what I would like to know is if anyone can suggest a few good, reliable brands and stores. Its seems that anyone can put up a website and sell things these days, so I want to be sure I buy a high-quality tank from a reputable dealer. I haven't decided on the exact size, but I know it will be between 100 and 200 gallons, and I'll probably go with glass, though that's not set in stone. I know you may have restrictions about promoting certain brands on the forum, but I thought I'd ask. If nothing else, maybe I can find out who not to use. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

08/31/2010, 01:19 PM	#965
charo Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: san diego Posts: 100	very helpful articles, if you add cured rock to new tank will that not start the cycle?

10/05/2010, 10:36 AM	#966
kimberlee Kimberlee Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Portland OR Posts: 168	As told, I'll now ask someone to give me the math equation to determine my mag. level using the cal. test results? __________________ 20 long w/ 4 36watt t-5 bulbs , modified sea clone skimmer and2 power heads, sump waiting to be hooked up

04/10/2011, 08:50 PM	#968
brezway Registered Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: ohio Posts: 8	Ok here we go i have a 300 gal FOWLR and it has been up and doing well for 18 months. I now have a very large hair algae outbreak and i am not sure what to do. I have had salt water for almost 9 yrs and have never come across this problem. any help would be wonderful and if you need anymore information please ask. Thank you for your help..!!! Jimmy

04/10/2011, 09:44 PM	#969
SeanT Premium Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Wilmington, North Carolina Posts: 13,860	I would recommend "cooking" your rock. Here is the process...and it works! The purpose of "cooking" your rocks is to have the bacteria consume all (or as much) organic material and PO4 stored on, and in, the rock as possible. The first step to this is commitment. You have to be willing to remove your rock from the tank. It doesn't have to be all at once, but I feel if you are going to do this do it all. In stages if that is easier but make sure that all of it gets done. The new environment you are creating for your rock is to take it from an algal driven to a bacterial driven system. In order to do this, the rock needs to be in total darkness to retard and eventually kill the algae's on the rock and to give the bacteria time to do the job. So basically you need tubs to hold the rock. Equipment needed. 1. Dedication. 2. Tubs to cook rock in. And an equal amount of tubs to hold the rock during waterchanges. 3. A few powerheads. 4. Plenty of buckets. 5. A smug feeling of superiority that you are taking it to "the next level." 6. Saltwater, enough made up to follow the instructions below and to replenish your tank after removing rocks. Here are the steps: 1. Get into your head and accept the fact you will be making lots of salt water if you aren't lucky enough to have access to filtered NSW. 2. Explain to significant other what is going on so they don't flip out. This process can take up to 2 months. Prepare them in advance so he/she can mark it on the calendar and that they won't nag about it until that date arrives. 3. Setup a tub(s) where the rock is to be cooked. Garages are great for this. 4. Make up enough water to fill tub(s) about halfway and around 5-7 buckets about 60% full. 5. Remove all the rock you want to cook at this stage. (The rock can be removed piece by piece until you are done.) I suggest shutting off the circulation beforehand to minimize dust storms. 6. Take the first piece of rock and dunk it, swish it, very, very well in the first bucket. Then do it again in the 2nd bucket, then the third. 7. Place rock in the tub. 8. Repeat steps 6 & 7 to every piece of rock you want to cook at this time. The reason I suggested 5-7 buckets of water will be evident quickly...as the water quickly turns brown. 9. Place powerhead(s) in the tub and plug in. Position at least one powerhead so that it agitates the surface of the water pretty well. This is to keep the water oxygenated. You can use an air pump for additional oxygenation if you wish. Only one powerhead per tub is needed. Remember the powerheads main responsibility is the oxygenation of the water. 10. Cover the tub. Remember, we want TOTAL darkness. 11. Empty out buckets, restart circulation on main tank. 12. Wait. 13. During the first couple of weeks it is recommended to do a swishing and dunking of the rocks twice a week. What this entails is to make up enough water to fill up those buckets and the tub the rock is in. First, lay out your empty tub(s) and fill buckets the same as before. Then, uncover tub with the rock in it. Take a rock and swish it in the tub it's in to knock any easy to get off junk. Then, swish it thru the 3 buckets again, and place in the empty tub.. Repeat for all your rocks. Then empty the tub that all the rocks were cooking in, take it outside and rinse it out with a hose. Place tub back where it was, fill with new saltwater, add rocks and powerheads, and cover. Wait again until the next water change. You will be utterly amazed at how much sand, silt, detritus is at the bottom of the tub and every bucket. It is amazing. At times the stench was so strong I gagged. How it works: Some FAQ's. When re-introducing the rock to my tank, a month or two from now, should I do that in parts to help minimize any cycling effect(s)...if there are any? I never have. Really after a very short while, the ammonium cycle has been established. That's not what you're worry about though, it's the stored phosphates and that you have to wait it out. When they are producing very little detritus - you'll know - then I would use them all at once. Would running Carbon filtration and/or a PO4 reducing media help/hurry/hinder the process? I wouldn't fool with it. You don't want the detritus to sit there long enough to rot, release water soluble P again. You want to take it out while it's still locked up in that bacterial detritus. I would say that 85% of my exposed rock had Bryopsis (hair algae) covering it. There isn't a single visible strand on any rocks my tank now. Remember, the key is patience. Let this process run its course. And a few last minute tidbits I remembered. Your coralline will die back, recede etc. My thoughts on this are GREAT! Now my rock is more porous for additional pods, mysids, worms etc. Coralline will grow back. Throughout this process the sponges, and pods on my rock have not died off. Every time I do a water change they are there and plentiful. __________________ My tank was cool. Current Tank Info: Barebottom (the tank not me...at least not at the moment).

01/01/2014, 06:00 PM	#970
Jenny_C Registered Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: North Queensland, Australia Posts: 1	Commenting on something in the Tank Selection article. Wondering if this is a typo: "Saltwater fish need far more room; they tend to be more active than marine fish, and some specimens can grow twice as large as a full-grown Oscar." Did you mean more active than freshwater fish? Forgive me if I am off the track.

09/09/2017, 09:37 AM	#971
SFKINNC Registered Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Fayetteville, NC Posts: 10	Because of space restrictions, I have room for a tank no more than 2 feet wide. I am considering a Coralife 32. I don't want to go smaller, or too much taller. I need suggesttions on what might be appropriate equipment, setup, etc. to maximize success with this prticular tank, or alternative ideas that would fit my space and look as good.