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Old 06/03/2019, 09:55 AM   #9851
BeanAnimal
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Lowering the valve will certainly help. What is the flow rate of the return pump?

Also, the discharge end of the siphon standpipe should be submerged .5" or so during normal operation.


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Old 07/19/2019, 11:49 AM   #9852
mav3rick478
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This has probably been asked but there are thousands of posts and it would take forever to search for it, so I'm asking again sorry but I just picked up a used 75 gallon with a corner overflow (1" & 0.75" predrilled) is it safe to drill a third 1" hole to convert to a Bean? Image below, sorry it's not the best, I still have to clean everything.

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Old 07/21/2019, 07:35 AM   #9853
Aquamechanic
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2 problems. You can't get another hole into such a tight area and still have enough integrity in the glass and the bigger issue is that there is a strong chance that aquarium has a tempered bottom after it was drilled at factory so cannot be drilled again.
You can engineer something similar (2 drains, no emergency) using both existing holes as drains and just have your return over the top of the aquarium rather than through bottom

AM


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Old 07/21/2019, 08:59 AM   #9854
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2 problems. You can't get another hole into such a tight area and still have enough integrity in the glass and the bigger issue is that there is a strong chance that aquarium has a tempered bottom after it was drilled at factory so cannot be drilled again.

You can engineer something similar (2 drains, no emergency) using both existing holes as drains and just have your return over the top of the aquarium rather than through bottom



AM
Thanks, after doing a bunch of research yesterday I was afraid of that. Didn't realize some manufacturers tempered glass after drilling till yesterday. I had that thought too, just running it without an emergency drain. I think my sump is big enough to handle the amount of water from the tank of there is a power outage but I'll have to make sure to have a high water sensor in the sump to turn off my return pump if my drains ever clog.

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Old 08/05/2019, 07:18 PM   #9855
Sisterlimonpot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mav3rick478 View Post
Thanks, after doing a bunch of research yesterday I was afraid of that. Didn't realize some manufacturers tempered glass after drilling till yesterday. I had that thought too, just running it without an emergency drain. I think my sump is big enough to handle the amount of water from the tank of there is a power outage but I'll have to make sure to have a high water sensor in the sump to turn off my return pump if my drains ever clog.

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they call that the herbie overflow. It's still quiet just without that final added safety measure.


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Old 03/03/2020, 04:15 PM   #9856
BeanAnimal
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Folks... just an FYI, the site was down for a while.... back up now

Hope everyone is doing well.

Happy Reefing!


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Old 03/05/2020, 07:04 AM   #9857
Floyd R Turbo
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I want the siphon calculator back! I emailed you about that a while back


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Old 03/05/2020, 05:18 PM   #9858
BeanAnimal
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I want the siphon calculator back! I emailed you about that a while back
Working on it. Was built in Flash... need to build in HTML 5


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Old 03/06/2020, 10:25 PM   #9859
fftfk
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If course it will


So a few notes:

If the flow volume is low and and the siphon standpipe is a very large diameter, then you are correct, the area between the valve and the sump may not product a true siphon. In this case submerging the end of the siphon (thus preventing atmospheric pressure from destroying the vacuum) will maintain the siphon. At higher flow volumes this does not become a problem.

We sometimes run into an issue at lower flows, where the volume is not sufficient to purge the standpipe of air. Drilling a small hole or two just above the (running) sump water line can fix this. The small hole will allow the standpipe to purge the air, but is not large enough to fully interfere with the siphon.

An alternative fix would be to place the control valve closer to the sump. This will ensure that he entire length of the standpipe (down to the valve) is always under full siphon.

Cheers...

-Bean
Hi Bean...

So I'm running into this exact issue. I have a 300 gallon tank that I am running about 900-1200 gallons per hour through. It is plumbed with 1.5 plumbing in to the basement. The total length of pipe is about 50 feet with 15 feet of head.

Is one of the fixes preferable in this scenario? I would like to keep the valve closer to the tank if possible but also want to fix it correctly.

Thanks!


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Old 03/06/2020, 11:20 PM   #9860
BeanAnimal
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I would suggest submerging the siphon standpipe and/or reducing the diameter at the discharge end. You can reduce down a pipe size or use a valve. 1.5” at 15’ of head can move a tremendous amount of water.

Ideally, the adjustment would be at the sump end with this much head, but you can likely find a good balance by using a valve near the floor upstairs and submerge/reduce at the sump. Remember, tumbling water and cavitation make noise, a full pipe does not.


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Old 03/07/2020, 06:46 AM   #9861
fftfk
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I would suggest submerging the siphon standpipe and/or reducing the diameter at the discharge end. You can reduce down a pipe size or use a valve. 1.5 at 15 of head can move a tremendous amount of water.

Ideally, the adjustment would be at the sump end with this much head, but you can likely find a good balance by using a valve near the floor upstairs and submerge/reduce at the sump. Remember, tumbling water and cavitation make noise, a full pipe does not.

Thank you! I just looked at our respective stats. We joined Reef Central a year apart...I have 200+ posts...you have 20k+ posts and have set the standard in overflow design. Hats off to you!



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Old 03/08/2020, 07:59 PM   #9862
BeanAnimal
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And to think in the last 5 years I only have maybe 100 posts

I looked at one point years ago and the only folks with more posts were moderators... I hope that has changed!

Still in the hobby, just busy.


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Old 03/10/2020, 01:33 AM   #9863
H2oGarden
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In my opinion it is still the best system around.


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