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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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(2) Fully controllable 100w Leds on the Cheap.
Anyone who knows me, thinks I'm cheap. I prefer the term Frugal.
![]() I just finished ordering all of the needed supplies, except for the Lenses and the Lens holders. (Question about that later) (2) 100w 20000k SMD Leds. - $64.00 for both, and free shipping. (I had to Email Seller and ask for 20000k. He has them. Just doesn't show them. Also asked for discount...Got $6 off for buying 2.) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=280863191147 (2) Cooler Master GeminII S524 CPU heatsinks. $29.99 ea. (I chose these on the recommendation from another thread. I like the fact that there isn't any Copper showing.) http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...r+GeminII+S524 (2)Mean Well HLG-100H-36B - $64.94 ea. (The B model allows for 3 way control. 1-10v, Resistance, PWM.) http://store.bravoelectro.com/advanc...ion=1&x=10&y=9 (1)Arctic Silver 5 Paste. $6.80 ea. (I didn't want to use screws. They are just something else to rust.) http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-...und+Paste+3.5g Yes. I could have cut corners. Yes. There are cheaper Heatsinks that would have worked just fine. Yes. I could have gotten the $24 Ebay drivers. Yes. Screws would have been cheaper. Yes. I have 30 year old T-shirts. (They're comfortable. Let's leave them out of this...) There is a difference in Cheap and Frugal. Cheap is all about price. Frugal is all about Price/Value. (There is a reason those T-shirt have lasted that long.) These are the best prices I could find, for the parts I wanted. That is the definition of Frugal. So far this build has cost me a grand total of $243.07 for (2) Fully controllable 100w Leds. Now, I can hear some of you Mathematicians saying, "Hold on there pardner...", because all Mathematicians talk like that in my head... "Hold on there pardner...That doesn't add up." Well that is where the Cheap part of me comes into play. You see, if you sign up for an Amazon credit card...They give you a $30 gift certificate that can be used right away. So I did...and then they did. ![]() Because it was over $25 I also got free shipping on the Heatsinks and Arctic Silver. The LEDs come with Free shipping. The Mean wells did not. I paid $10.57 for shipping. $10.57 for Shipping on all of this, is something I can live with. Now, the question...What size Lens holder/Lenses to get? There are several different sizes that claim they are for the 100w LEDs. Which one do I get? and what is the cheapest price? Anyone care to help? As soon as I get the parts, I will also turn this into a pictorial Step by Step tutorial. Now we wait... ![]() I hate waiting. ![]() |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 9
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any reference link of "$24 Ebay drivers"?
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Puerto Vallarta and Bend Oregon
Posts: 110
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If you dont want to use Screws your going to need Thermal Adhesive . The link you posted is just Arctic Silver paste.
You need this http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-...ilver+Adhesive |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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My mistake. I had to go back to the invoice and make sure I didn't order the grease.
I looked at the grease before deciding to go with the adhesive. I have looked at so many places/products, I forgot what I ordered. Good catch Trevenator. ![]() I actually order the "Arctic Alumina, Ceramic Thermal Adhesive, 5g". It was $7.99. Here's the link - http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina.../dp/B001O7ARUQ Total should be - $244.26 |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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And now that I see the price your link is...I am disappointed in Amazon. They didn't show me that when I searched.
![]() 3 Bucks, is 3 bucks... |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 255
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For the lenses, I highly recommend the 82mm lens+base. You can get it off ebay by searching for "82mm lens base" or similar, might even throw in 100w on the search. Only one guy has them, but they are definately worth it. Much better than the other 100w lenses.
There is another possibility too. I bought some of the 20w lenses from ac-rc just in case I wanted them on my moonlights. (turns out I don't). However, they fit the 100w bases he also sells. You might be able to ask him for a 100w base and one of the 20w lenses. They are much more shallow than the high profile 100w lenses he sells. I see you used alot of the same components I did. Glad I could help, hope you are happy with them. I'm very happy with the meanwells. I do recommend mounting them on standoffs or a pile of washers though, as they do get *really* hot. Maybe they deserve a fan, dunno. |
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#8 | |||
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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I received the MeanWells and the Heatsinks today. Picked up the materials to Lap the Heatsinks.
Just waiting on the LEDs. In the meantime I will Lap the Heatsinks. |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Damascus, MD
Posts: 3,340
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How does using 2 high power LEDs work out over the surface area of the tank? What is the effective useful surface area this can accommodate?
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125RR in-wall, 40B Sump, CS180 BM Skimmer, ATI 4x80 watt, eheim 1262, custom wrap around rock wall, ReefKeeper Elite 120g in-wall, 40B Sump, PC 54wx4, Jabao DC-6000 (full siphon), future seahorse t Current Tank Info: 125g, 120g, 2x40b sumps, ATI 4x80 T5HO |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 255
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You can cover a circle of about 2.5-3 ft in diameter with one 100w LED+lens. The power is incredible, I actually have to turn mine down, even over a 3ft deep tank. You may need to get some smaller ones with tight lenses to cover the corners though.
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#12 |
Zardoz
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: South
Posts: 1,036
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how does the heat sink work? it looks really cool! is there liquid that flows through the pipes?
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 255
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There are a few good articles online about them. Apparently it has some kind of thin liquid in it, like alcohol, that condenses and evaporates inside the tube. The tubes are completely sealed however.
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Look up "Heat Pipe". They are very useful for various tasks.
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#15 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 129
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Check these out for drivers...requires a mosfet,resistor and transistor (about 6 dollars) to actually control output but it sure is cheap and has the same specs as the expensive meanwell.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Koda...item2572496a32 and the schematic to go with it http://www.instructables.com/id/Circ...rent-Source-1/ |
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#16 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Well, it took 3 hours of Lapping and Polishing, but now the Heatsinks look like little copper mirrors.
Depending on who you listen to, it either makes no difference or up to 60F degrees difference. I decided that it couldn't hurt, and that it might make a big difference. My arm is sore. BEFORE: ![]() DURING: (You can see the concave nature of the Heatsink very well. This would keep the middle of the Heatsink off the LED, not allowing for complete heat transfer.) ![]() AFTER: ![]() If nothing else, it fed my OCD...Now just have to wait on the LEDs and do that all over again with them. |
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#17 | |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
Remember, being Frugal does not mean the cheapest route sometimes. ![]() |
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#18 |
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Thank you.
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 65
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I am looking forward to seeing how this turns out, please post pictures... I have started collecting parts to do the same thing...
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#20 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,639
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isnt the ceramic adhesive a thermal insulator? i am pretty sure you wanted the arctic silver thermal adhesive it is listed at 12 dollars and change..
for my 2watters i used arctic alumina adhesive, but for the big boys you have i am sure the silver is a better route...just make sure the ceramic isnt going to insulate the die from the heatsink... |
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#21 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
Please read the following page. It will point out the advantages of the Artic Silver 5 - http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm . |
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#22 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 129
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Quote:
I'm afraid I don't understand although I agree frugal does not mean being cheap. Performance is rated on: must put out constant current, must have voltage range sufficient to keep that current, must have minimal ripple (which I suspect is the area that you are questioning). This is not a knockoff power supply that was shoddily put together IE Cheap power supplies exposed but a genuine kodak power supply for a printer that is no longer manufactured. Look at the cost of replacement of most laptop power supplies...equal to or exceeding a meanwell. Some of that is branding (same as Meanwell) but a lot is due to good quality control. I'm not disagreeing the meanwells are better for some people but I don't see the value added compared to this other than warranty. Now I haven't put a scope on the meanwell or the kodak either. Transistors should control current very well as long as you check your resistances very carefully or order +-1% resistors, kodak power supply is just there to move from 120AC to 36V DC which is the most expensive part if you roll your own. Sorry for being semi off topic and if you'd prefer to take it to PM that is ok with me but I'm curious as to what performance you're seeing that I'm not. BTW I'm using the same LEDs from the same seller although I paid 33ea, the same heatsink and the same paste. Just our drivers are different so I have vested interest in following you anyways and wanted to say thank you for posting your process. Last edited by propeine; 06/29/2012 at 11:02 PM. |
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#23 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 431
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Im very interested to see how this turns out!
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#24 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,135
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Propeine, the Instructables driver may or may not be as stable as the Meanwells, I just don't know. I do know that the Meanwells have a very good 5 year warranty, and are dimmable 3 ways. This gives me a lot of options now, and in the future.
The Dimmable part was the major draw for me. A_CoupleClowns, it may turn out to be a Stop, Drop and Roll situation...but if it does, I promise to get pictures. ![]() |
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#25 | |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Erie, PA
Posts: 129
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