What tap pressure does a booster become beneficial?

[Jimmer12]

I just checked my tap pressure and I have 60 psi on the button. I'm setting up a 150 gpd rodi system, and I can pick up a used booster that does 80 psi. Would the extra 20 psi make a big difference?

[shifty51008]

It will produce water a lil faster and may help your waste to clean water so you cut down on your waste, 60psi is around the min. Pressure you want imo but if you can get the pump for a decent price i would go for it

[Jimmer12]

Thanks I can get the pump with transformer and pressure switch for $40

[shifty51008]

Go for it, thats s great price

[DavidinGA]

I have always heard 40psi is around the bare minimum you need and I would say less than that is when you should get a booster pump.

I only have 46psi on my line and I don't run a booster and my RO/DI have run fine for 2+ years now.

[Jimmer12]

Running fine and running efficiently are 2 different things. Plus with having a second membrane I'm concerned my water pressure won't feed two membranes sufficiently.

[mcgyvr]

Just a FYI..
The water pressure in home can be adjusted.. Just find the pressure regulator and adjust. (usually in the crawl space or similar near where the water line enters the house from the meter)
Thats what I did (was like 30-35 PSI when I first setup my RO unit.. now 55-60 PSI).. Showers are much better now too.

[DavidinGA]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

Just a FYI..
The water pressure in home can be adjusted.. Just find the pressure regulator and adjust. (usually in the crawl space or similar near where the water line enters the house from the meter)
Thats what I did (was like 30-35 PSI when I first setup my RO unit.. now 55-60 PSI).. Showers are much better now too.

Really? That would be super helpful had I known this year's ago lol


Is it this thing:

[mcgyvr]

^^ yes just turn the bolt and voila

[Jimmer12]

I don't have one of those things. I've looked many times and am at the mercy of city water pressure.

[DavidinGA]

Sweet

[ericarenee]

Originally Posted by Jimmer12

I don't have one of those things. I've looked many times and am at the mercy of city water pressure.

Usually rural areas and areas with Drought issues install them.. Sometimes they install them in homes that are too close the a water main pumping station as well. We Do not have one either and get 85 psi water pressure....


I too have the dual membrane RO/DI.. It does help big time.But It tears thru Di resin. It should be ran with dual resin Canisters I soon will add another to mine.

[Jimmer12]

I was planning to do dual resin canisters anyway. I buy resin in bulk through work so I get it dirt cheap.

[ericarenee]

Originally Posted by Jimmer12

I was planning to do dual resin canisters anyway. I buy resin in bulk through work so I get it dirt cheap.

1+

I go thru about 50 gallons of RO/DI Water a week.

Not telling you how many tanks.. Yea i lied to my Therapist too.. HEHE

[Scorpius]

I run 85-90 psi on my BRS 150gpd ro/di.

[mcgyvr]

Originally Posted by ericarenee

Usually rural areas and areas with Drought issues install them.. Sometimes they install them in homes that are too close the a water main pumping station as well. We Do not have one either and get 85 psi water pressure....

No, not at all, to the rural/drought areas..
Most homes/commercial buildings,etc. have them and its required in many states/municipalities if not all.
Has nothing to do with rural/drought.
If your city produces water in excess of 60-80 PSI its usually required..

If you don't have one either.. you just can't find it or your home is quite old or you may live in a place that doesn't require them (rare)

Mine is literally in the crawl space under my house and back in the far corner under the front door concrete slab.. It was tough to find and hard to get to without being on my belly doing the snake crawl

[alton]

My RO system requires 50 PSI or my TDI goes up a couple points. When my regulator went bad it was allowing 125PSI in my house and my flex fittings under my sinks started leaking. My normal pressure was around 60 PSI during the day but around 2am it would jump up to 125. One morning I woke up because I heard the drip/ drip and I happened to have my RO system running overnight and saw the meter which read 125psi. The next day I went out and bought a new regulator.

[Jimmer12]

Originally Posted by mcgyvr

No, not at all, to the rural/drought areas..
Most homes/commercial buildings,etc. have them and its required in many states/municipalities if not all.
Has nothing to do with rural/drought.
If your city produces water in excess of 60-80 PSI its usually required..

If you don't have one either.. you just can't find it or your home is quite old or you may live in a place that doesn't require them (rare)

Mine is literally in the crawl space under my house and back in the far corner under the front door concrete slab.. It was tough to find and hard to get to without being on my belly doing the snake crawl

I traced mine right from where my water line enters my house underground at the base of my foundation, to the inside shut off valve and the water meter and I haven't found one. But my house was built in the early 50s.

[davocean]

Originally Posted by alton

My RO system requires 50 PSI or my TDI goes up a couple points. When my regulator went bad it was allowing 125PSI in my house and my flex fittings under my sinks started leaking. My normal pressure was around 60 PSI during the day but around 2am it would jump up to 125. One morning I woke up because I heard the drip/ drip and I happened to have my RO system running overnight and saw the meter which read 125psi. The next day I went out and bought a new regulator.

This is kind of important to know, your regulator is there for a reason.
Anything above 90psi can cause failures like this.
50-60 psi is about average/normal and fine for our RO systems.

[Allentown]

After living in a home that constantly had to have facet rings replaced and living with drippy facets from too much pressure...I'm not risking turning up pressure.

My new home is on a concrete slab and if something blows out thats a pipe buried under house (or even in the walls)...your talking about a mess.

I'm at 46psi (recommended min is 50) and I'll stay there.

longer lasting pluming saves more than an extra bit of filter here and there will cost.

My TDS is 5 to 6 post membrane. My tap water is 63 to 65.

95% efficiency. ..it will do.

[firemountain]

THe best part of running a booster is having the ability to adjust the pressure.

Also...when you install the booster, you should run a gauge. The gauge reading will give you an idea of when your filters are being consumed.

[spieszak]

Look at what the maker actually recommends, generalities don't make any sense.... a lot of them have flow restrictors in place, so boosting beyond that just isn't sane.

[Allentown]

Originally Posted by firemountain

THe best part of running a booster is having the ability to adjust the pressure.

Also...when you install the booster, you should run a gauge. The gauge reading will give you an idea of when your filters are being consumed.

Wouldn't you need the gauge in line between the pre-filter and the RO? That's when you can see if the pressure drops either your mesh or carbon blocks are clogged.

What would having a gauge out at the booster tell you?

Resistance going INTO the filter I guess? ??

[azjohnny]

IMO if your feed water is below 60 PSI I would get a booster pump. Run as high of pressure that the fittings can handle.

I run mine at 110 psi and the incoming is 700 ppm and the after membrane is 8 and that is in the summer with warm water. In the winter I get a better rejection ratio

[DavidinGA]

Originally Posted by spieszak

Look at what the maker actually recommends, generalities don't make any sense.... a lot of them have flow restrictors in place, so boosting beyond that just isn't sane.

EXACTLY.

My spectrapure Rodi minimum recommendation is 40psi. Now if I decide to ignore that and run 100psi, why would that be "better"?