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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
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Need help, conflicting LFS
Hi, names Craig, England UK, just got a nano talk only 100 litres, been cycling for a month using Red Sea maturation kit, no live rock, as my LFS said it'd be better without it and sold me man-made rock not live, LFS said the Red Sea kit would do all the cycling, which according to the instructions it does....BUT according to another LFS (2) AND Red Sea they said I should've used live rock as that's what the kits meant to work with. Now my problem is, do I do a large WC as I've got very high nitrates (50+ppm) and nitrites (1 maybe even 2ppm) and also I don't think I've had an ammonia spike as LFS didn't sell me a ammonia test kit and so I couldn't check for the first week, but certain I've not had one as yet. Please help I'm not impatient to get fish and would happily wait even to put in a clean up crew, which LFS advised against, but LFS(2) and Red Sea said I should have, I don't know what's best and I'm worried I'll kill a CUC if I put them in my tank, it might not have completed cycling and would a large WC be just a waste of time/money. Any responses appreciated.
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#2 |
My Clown Attacks Me
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 2,105
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You can start a tank with either Dry Rock or Live Rock. Both have their benefits, but Live Rock has the possibility of unwanted hitchhiking critters. I would not do a water change until you know for sure you have 0 Ammonia and 0 Nitrites. Ammonia turns into Nitrites, Nitrites turn into Nitrates. I would get an ammonia test kit. Red Sea is good to use for tests. You probably should add something to spike the ammonia to at least 2ppm. You can use pure ammonia or a cocktail shrimp. Adding something dead will take longer to raise ammonia than dosing pure ammonia though. Take advice from all LFS with a grain of salt and it is best to do your own research.
There are Posts at the top of this Forum (New to the Hobby) with information on starting a saltwater fish tank. Good Luck!
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100 Gallon Long with 20L sump 10 Gallon Office Tank Current Tank Info: 2 False Percula Clowns, One Spot Foxface, Diamond Watchman Goby, Yellow Tail Damsel, Engineer Goby |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: North Georgia
Posts: 869
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I agree with Cymonous. You're into it now with the dry rock so you might as well proceed. It will have its own set of benefits although your tank would probably have cycled faster with live rock. No matter now. Grab an ammonia test kit and add something to get your cycle going.
CUCs are pretty hardy in general but since you are patient (a real bonus in this hobby! if you ever figure out how to bottle and sell that, you'll be rich) then go ahead and monitor your cycle first. LFS are...well they can be hit or miss. There is one guy at my LFS who has even a clue what is going on, the rest will say the first thing that pops into their heads. The stickies at the top of the forums here are great and in general you can get tons of great advice and opinions who have been keeping reef tanks for a very long time. When in doubt (or even if not), just ask! Good luck! |
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 8,823
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Here's the problem that you have now, you already did a cycle on your tank I'm assuming you have sand bed, and I can promise you that you have had an ammonia spike or you wouldn't have nitrites or nitrates so your tank is in the middle of a cycle. Now you need to put in your rock whether you buy live or dead will be a time to cycle thing, of course lr is much more expensive than dry rock, that choice is yours.
What I would do at this point is to get the ammonia test kit, some plain pure ammonia from any grocery, hardware store to raise to 2 ppm as stated earlier this is the fastest way to get your tank cycled. Don't buy a cuc until your tank has cycled and you have had an algae bloom, otherwise you will have to feed them something or they will die. Seems like neither of your lfs gave you very sound advice and it's sad as they should have directed you to properly setup your tank with lr from the beginning. Let us know what you decide and what your tests do as you go,we will be more than happy to help you.
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
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#5 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 390
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Quote:
![]() I looked up the kit and it looks like they're trying to make cycling as confusing as humanly possible. But anyway, if you're following along with their schedule, you should have had 0 ammonia and nitrite by day 10. You may be getting additional organics from the dry rock, which are slowing everything down. This isn't unusual. You can do a water change if you like. You don't have anything but bacteria in the tank so it's not critical. Check ammonia. I wouldn't panic about the nitrate reading, especially if you aren't seeing algae yet. Nitrite messes up nitrate readings. The kit will have spiked your ammonia, don't worry. Don't add cleaning crew. Red Sea tells you to add it when ammonia and nitrite are zero, and nitrates are around 5. You really should wait until then, or even until you see brown or green algae. You haven't finished cycling until ammonia and nitrite are 0. I definitely wouldn't add fish. Using that kit on cured live rock would be completely redundant. And possibly lead to major die off of the life from excessive ammonia. Red Sea's usually very reputable, I'm boggled that they're selling this kit. (NoPox in a cycling aquarium? Seriously?) hope that helps a bit, Ivy
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 |
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#6 | ||
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 390
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Quote:
Quote:
![]() ivy
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: NW Iowa
Posts: 8,823
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Ivy thanks for the information, I wasn't aware that was available like that. Damn governments getting into our business sucks
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Previous tanks: 200 gal fowlr 9" Emperor Angel and many different butterfly fish 4" maroon clown and several other fish, 50 gal sump, 40 gal mixed reef/fish mostly softies and LPS. Current Tank Info: 40b 750 gph 45 lbs lr, 2"-3" sand, 165w full spectrum dimable LED, 20 gal sump/refugium 30 lbs lr, Bak Pak 2 skimmer, 4" sock temp 79-80, sg 1.026, NH3 0, NO2 0, NO3 <10, ph 8.2, calc 400, mag 1300 |
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#8 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
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THANKS for everyone's reply, I'm determined to get my water exact before adding any fish.
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#10 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Queens, NY
Posts: 701
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I cycled with dry rock. It did take a little longer than it would have with live rock. The middle phase, waiting for Nitrite to zero out, took kind of a while. So just be patient. the whole thing took me 6-7 weeks. But I love my decision to go with dry rock. A lot of people don't like it, but it becomes just as covered in bacteria as any live rock you can buy. And no unwanted hitchhikers of any kind. My bio filter performs incredibly well. Shockingly well to be honest. Just go slow as you add fish to let it catch up. Patience is key! When in doubt, wait. And then wait some more. Good luck!
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#11 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 390
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Quote:
Brown algae is probably diatoms, yep. They're actually a Good Thing, they'll drop your nitrates and get rid of all the silica in your tank. They look terrible but are self limiting and will go away. I'd still hold off on adding snails til nitrite is zero. It's not very toxic in saltwater, but does indicate that the water chemistry isn't stable. hth ivy
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28g cube, CF 105watts! Tunze 9001. Tiny frags: Euphyllia, blasto, ricordea and a rock flower anemone. Lost fish and inverts due to ongoing outbreak of dinoflagellates. Current Tank Info: 28g aio, 105 watt CF lights, no sump or skimmer. 2 sexy shrimp, tiny frogspawn, tiny toadstool, tiny lps. Started Feb '15 |
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
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Thanks again for everyone's help, I feel much better about it all now,
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#13 |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Wyocena Wi
Posts: 6,936
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I would keep a close eye on your parameters. Depending on how the rock was made and the quality of materials you could get into some issues with things leaching out. I would keep an eye on the alkalinity and once you get some livestock in the tank watch their behavior. I have read some threads where man made rock had some nasty contaminants. Good luck
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Tony Current Tank Info: 180gal DT, BM NAC77 skimmer,3 Maxspect razors, Maxspect Gyre 150, 30g QT |
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Tags |
nitrites, problems with nitrates |
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