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#1 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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Hi everyone, I need serious help.
I have a 20 gallon tank, 24 x 18 x 12 No matter what I do, none of my coral I have is very healthy. I use RO water when doing water changes. I feed the tank with Marine snow and Seachem reef plankton once a week. I use Aquavitro Fuel twice a week, (Mondays and thursdays). I have a lumentek 120 light over the tank, about 9 inches up, maxes at 40 on blues and 15 on whites. I have one jebao wp 10, and a fuval sea nano Powerhead. My parameters are as follows. pH 8.0 Nitrates <5 Nitrites 0 Carbonate Hardness 8 dKh Calcium 480 Magnesium 1460 Ammonia 0 Phosphate <0.1 What can possibly be the problem? Too much flow? Not enough light? I haven't had any growth whatsoever in the past year. None of my LPS are growing in any way. When the acans I have start to open and grow, they end up just detaching from the skeleton and dying. It makes no sense! |
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#2 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,765
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How often do you do water changes and what salt? Also what is the age of the tank? And your salinity, top off schedule?
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“In wine there is wisdom; in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria.” - Benjamin Franklin Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank. |
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#3 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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Every two weeks, red sea coral pro salt. Tank has been setup for a year and a half or so.
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#4 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,765
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Do you have an automatic top off? If not how much evaporation are you getting and how often do you top off? What is your salinity and how do you measure it?
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“In wine there is wisdom; in beer there is freedom, in water there is bacteria.” - Benjamin Franklin Current Tank Info: 90 gallon reef. Biocube 29 lionfish tank. Mantis tank. |
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#5 |
Registered Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Parkville, MO
Posts: 666
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pictures might help
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#6 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: VA/DC/MD
Posts: 299
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Salinity? Tank inhabitants? Temp?
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24X24X12 Mixed : T5 / 13UP lighting | Apex | MP10 | SCA-301 | WW/CW/UV Sump Lighting | DIY dosers 20L AIO SPS frag tank : UV/CW/WW/R/B/L/P LED - GONE |
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#7 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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Two clowns and a six line Wrasse. Salinity is 1.025 temp is 78
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#8 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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I use a refractometer to measure it, and I calibrate it every water change
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#9 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New York, New York
Posts: 2,185
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What corals?
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
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#10 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New York, New York
Posts: 2,185
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What kind of flow units?
It can be really easy to add too much flown a 20 gallon if you have a hang on back filter it's probably even enough
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“For most of history, man has had to fight nature to survive; in this century he is beginning to realize that, in order to survive, he must protect it.”― Jacques-Yves Cousteau MarineBio.org Current Tank Info: 40 Gallon Breeder w/ Bean Animal Overflow 20G Sump, Mixed Reef. |
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#11 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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#12 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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various euphyllia, acans, favia, many zoas, and a few shrooms
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#13 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 2,564
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When you say "not healthy" what do you mean? Slow to grow? Pale? STN?
On a side note, you don't need to calibrate your refractometer each time if you don't want. I do mine every few months and it's always stable. If yours keeps drifting, you might want to consider an upgrade to a better quality one. |
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#14 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,753
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Pictures?
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#15 | |
Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 70
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Quote:
They are very reliable, if you havent dropped it, calibrating every 6 months is more than enough. |
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#16 | |
Registered Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 9,671
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Quote:
I had a few of those cheap ones that needed constant adjustment. I finally bought a vital sine which was around $100 and is very stable. I still check it against a reference solution monthly but rarely do I have to adjust anything.
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rebuild and recovery log: No more red house, you'll have to click on my name and visit my homepage! You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username. Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank |
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#17 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 55
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http://postimg.org/image/nkefy80yd/
http://postimg.org/image/tgmv7s1cf/ First is settings on my light. Second is a hammer coral, and my favia. The favia had skeleton shown when I bought it, but I think the flesh is slowly receding. |
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#18 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,753
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I would start with lowering the flow, take out the nano powerhead and run the Jebao on the lowest setting. I also wouldn't dose anything except alk,Cal and mag (if needed). keep it simple, maybe turn the whites up a little to maybe 20 then 25 just do it slowly.
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#19 |
Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,753
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So any changes?
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Current tank: 90G mixed reef. Current Tank Info: 90 gallon |
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Tags |
coral, growth, lights, lps, reef |
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