Sump design, Background for new tank

[Reef of Fillory]

Hello,

Just getting in to tanks, bought a 75gal off of craigslist, drilled my overflow and return holes for bulkheads and got a 40gallon off craigslist to make into a sump. Also built my stand already, and will be trimming and paneling it soon.

75 gallon main tank, 3/4" bulkheads (all I could find locally) and 3 3/4" drain lines (beananimal setup) with one return pump t'd off to two return bulkheads drilled into the back corners of the tank. Planning to use the flex-tubes that "V" to disperse the flow on each side of the tank.

I have a reef octopus HOB-2000 skimmer which I want to put at the end of my sump to use for skimming. I am worried about the height of water that I will have to have in the sump to accomodate using the skimmer off of the side. I was thinking that my first section would be around 12inches long, and be split in 1/3 for the in-drain to come in, flow into a space for the HOB skimmer, and then the middle section (14" or so) would be for a refugium. The refugium would then flow down to the other side of the tank where I will have the return pump (or use an external return, unsure right now).

I am using a "coast to coast" overflow with the beananimal design. I made the glass box out of 1/4" and siliconed it to the back of the tank last night. Since this box will be in my tank, I was wanting to paint/cover it so that it hides the bulkheads and pvc behind it. I also want to cover/paint the panels on either side of the refugium to help keep the light in the ref.



Questions:

Does anyone know of a saltwater safe vinyl type cling, or something similar that I can use for the (outside) back of my tank, as well as the (inside) overflow and (inside) refugium dividers?

How much space do I need to leave in the sump to accomodate backups and power outages?

What sized pump would be sufficient and budget friendly for my t'd return lines, and where is the best place to buy the "bendy return hose" that most aquarium returns use?

Also got an RO/DI unit with my 75gallon tank, got the chambers open and am looking for affordable replacement filters for it.
1) Valuetrex model VX-TW30-75D $80 for RO filter - any cheaper replacements?
2) Matrikx Carbon Filter (9.5" long, 2[7/8]" radius
3) SpectraPure DI-SB-CI-10HC DI canister (non-refillable) (9.75" long, 3" radius)

Any help/feedback would be greatly appreciated!!

[Sk8r]

black absorbs light. White reflects it, but shows crud. You might consider a reflective backing. I have a corner tank, and deliberately removed the backing because it gives me a mirror 'infinity' effect.

[Rexican]

Sounds like you're really jumping in there. Any pictures of the tank and work?

I'm hoping to move into something like this after I buy a house. Good luck on the project and welcome to the forums.

[Reef of Fillory]

Will post some pictures when I get home tonight. Used black aquarium sealant for the box, and GE silicone 1 to attach the box to the tank. I will be using a LED light centered between t-5 bulbs (taken off of Craigslist bought fixtures and combined into a DIY hood (possibly custom built)

[Reef of Fillory]

Originally Posted by Sk8r

black absorbs light. White reflects it, but shows crud. You might consider a reflective backing. I have a corner tank, and deliberately removed the backing because it gives me a mirror 'infinity' effect.

Wife wants either Black or Blue background to the tank. My thought is that down the road there might be too much blue with LED's and a blue backing?

[Reef of Fillory]

I've also found a local supply of live rock... Wanting a sand base in my tank as well, and I have heard/read conflicting advice about the use of live rock and live sand for starting a tank. It will be coming from someone with a local coral fragging/sourcing business. Is it generally okay to throw the live rock directly into my tank, and the sand as well? Was thinking one bag of live sand, and supplementing the rest with some "play" sand (or whichever type is recommended).

[Sk8r]

Play sand is silicon, which is not good---diatom problems: you want aragonite. Read the bit on Preparing Rock in the stickies. If what you get is already 'cured' and ready for use you can set up with it. Dead coral works great for that purpose. It needs to go into well-prepared salt water, and you will have to 'cycle' the tank. The sticky on 'Setting Up' will also help you.

[Reef of Fillory]

I had read about the aragonite as well as people using straight play sand from Home Depot. I will make sure that I get the non silicon sand, thanks!

[Reef of Fillory]

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[TokiHacker]

Originally Posted by Reef of Fillory

I had read about the aragonite as well as people using straight play sand from Home Depot. I will make sure that I get the non silicon sand, thanks!

I searched and searched. I could not find a play sand that was aragonite in south Alabama. Just BTW.,

[Reef of Fillory]

Originally Posted by TokiHacker

I searched and searched. I could not find a play sand that was aragonite in south Alabama. Just BTW.,

What I meant is that I had heard that people used straight play sand. How did you find sand for your tank? Or did you go BB?

[powderblue1]

100% black acrylic paint for the back of the tank. Black is best for keeping the fish feeling low stress. I would go with a Danner mag 9.5 for a return pump. It will never die and they are reasonable. The amount of space needed for outages is adjustable with the height of your lowest drain point in the tank. I would leave about 3-4 inches on a 40 gallon breeder if that is the 40 gal you have. Live rock, if cycled, is great to throw right in, I would give it a quick freshwater dip to try to drive out any hitchhikers first though. I would go with live sand/aragonite if you don't want problems. All aragonite is not created equal

[Reefbuoy]

Do many people run HOB skimmers in the sump? Would the water height would need to close to the top in that section?

[Reef of Fillory]

Originally Posted by powderblue1

100% black acrylic paint for the back of the tank. Black is best for keeping the fish feeling low stress. I would go with a Danner mag 9.5 for a return pump. It will never die and they are reasonable. The amount of space needed for outages is adjustable with the height of your lowest drain point in the tank. I would leave about 3-4 inches on a 40 gallon breeder if that is the 40 gal you have. Live rock, if cycled, is great to throw right in, I would give it a quick freshwater dip to try to drive out any hitchhikers first though. I would go with live sand/aragonite if you don't want problems. All aragonite is not created equal

Thanks for the suggestions! My thought was to use the first 10 inches or so of the tank for the in-flow which would then waterfall down to the skimmer section. The skimmer section would then drop to the refugium (in the center) and then finally to a return pump area at the other end. I'm using 3/4" pvc return and am splitting it off to either side of the back wall of the tank. Is a 950gph pump going to be enough to provide agitation and water movement? I have two [as far as I know] no name powerheads that I got with the tank that I plan to clean up and put on the front corners of the tank.

Originally Posted by Reefbuoy

Do many people run HOB skimmers in the sump? Would the water height would need to close to the top in that section?

I've never actually seen someone use a HOB in a sump, but that's what I have [for now - or until the wife gives in and lets me spend the $$ on an in-sump]. The first 10 inches or so of the sump will be a dedicated in-flow, and skimmer section which should allow me to have the height needed for the skimmer to function.

I built my stand the way I did intentionally so that I could fit a 40g underneath with the skimmer on the end ^_^

[Reef of Fillory]

Got the plumbing in, would like some advice on how to secure/support the piping? Also have a few pumps from the original used tank purchase, one says 850gph, and two have no markings. I'll post a picture in a bit, hopefully someone might be able to identify them.

I have got 40gals of water in the tank right now, waiting to get 75lbs live rock tomorrow morning. How much water should I be able to add while still leaving space for the rock? Only have 10 5gal buckets for storage (and transporting the live rock). Tested overflow bulkheads for leaks and everything isq tightened up.

Baffles for sump (silicone) are still curing. Decided against putting in the baffles for a bubble trap (middle section will be a refugium), and I may have made the return section too big? Awny downsides to a large return pump section?

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[Reef of Fillory]

Got the plumbing in, would like some advice on how to secure/support the piping? Also have a few pumps from the original used tank purchase, one says 850gph, and two have no markings. I'll post a picture in a bit, hopefully someone might be able to identify them.

I have got 40gals of water in the tank right now, waiting to get 75lbs live rock tomorrow morning. How much water should I be able to add while still leaving space for the rock? Only have 10 5gal buckets for storage (and transporting the live rock). Tested overflow bulkheads for leaks and everything isq tightened up.

Baffles for sump (silicone) are still curing. Decided against putting in the baffles for a bubble trap (middle section will be a refugium), and I may have made the return section too big? Awny downsides to a large return pump section?

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[Reefbuoy]

A large return pump area is great for keeping the other areas at a stable height. The height changes from evaporation and syphoning will happen in there.

[powderblue1]

Wow. That is quite a setup you have there. I am impressed with your enthusiasm. I usually just go with the overflow into a filter sock, through a baffle with a 2" opening at the bottom and over a bubble-wall into the return compartment. I stick the skimmer and UV in the middle and might throw a Phosphoban reactor hooked up to a small maxi-jet on the back of the return compartment that has the pump and a couple of bags of Chemi-pure Elite in it. Looks like Rio pumps you got there. They are not the quality of Danner Mag pumps. I would not go with them for any length of time. The Mag 9.5 should get you the flow you are looking for for a 5-10x turnover of your tank per hour at head height. I prefer more toward the 5x end. You need to give the water enough contact time with your protein skimmer, UV Sterilizer (you have one, right?, and any Chemi-pure bags you have in the return compartment. I will be here tonight if you have any other questions.

[Reef of Fillory]

Got myself a Mag9.5 hooked up last night, seems to be pumping well. Got (live?) rock about 5 days ago from a guy who has it circulating in saltwater tanks w/ a huge carbon filter.

Would you say that this rock will have the bacteria necessary on it? The rock was in the containers alone, and did not have any fish or critters in it.

Overflow seems to be working well, and my HOB skimmer [with a little modification to the intake] also seems to be working well.

Got carribean "live sand" from CaribSea (40lbs) and some aquarium aragonite (40lbs) that will be going in shortly.

Next is to get it cycled and put the sheathing on the stand.


When can/should I get something for my refugium? I am planning to pretty much dedicate the refugium to microorganisms to feed coral/mandarin etc.

Looking for more info on how/when to start the refugium with that goal in mind. Wouldn't mind some chaeto in there either.

[powderblue1]

Excellent start my friend! Yes, definitely chaeto in that center compartment. The zooplankton love to live in it. I just feed my Mandarines frozen Cyclops from Hikari. They love it, and it is easier.
Post a picture of the rock and I will take a look. It is not unheard of not to have critters. Liquid supplements and a cube of shrimp every now and agian can be enough to form what you need. The colonies will populate further once you cycle your tank. You should still feed your tank even with no fish. Drop in a cube of Spirulina enhanced Brine shrimp every other day to kick up the cycling a notch. Crabs can go in next and then once you get the ammonia and nitrates in check you can add some simple hardy fish to kick off the "Uglies" time in your tank. DON'T GET DISCOURAGED! THERE IS LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL! TAKE A LOOK AT ONE OF MY TANKS ON THE LEFT. IT WAS ONLY AT 1.5 YEARS AT THAT POINT!
Keep me informed

[Reef of Fillory]

I got live rock which has been cured and held in a tub with saltwater (and flow/carbon canister) for around a year.

I put caribsea arag-alive carribean reef sand in

I've been ghost feeding, and have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrate (no nitrite test kit)

Can I now add chaeto, and when can I add some inverts? Bag of Caribsea says as soon as water is up to temp, inverts can be added?

[TokiHacker]

Originally Posted by Reef of Fillory

What I meant is that I had heard that people used straight play sand. How did you find sand for your tank? Or did you go BB?

bought carib dry sand and had it delivered from petco. My mail man hated me when he delivered 300lbs of sand I am sure.

[JZinCO]

Just to comment on your plumbing. In order to support their weight or avoid bumping and moving them, I suggest some sort of strapping. I used plastic strapping tape to hang my pvc. I see yours are behind the tank by a few inches. You may want to consider joining all the pipes together and firming them up. A bullet proof way is to 1) use split ring hangers and thread rod to join each pipe to the other, then 2) use one split ring hanger to join the middle pipe to the stand. That way each pipe can't flex independently of another and then the pipes can't flex independently of the tank/stand.
Just one idea. Here is a webpage that can give you more ideas: https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipeh....html#tomahawk

[JZinCO]

edit: Another way is to use pipe clamps
https://www.grainger.com/product/1RV...170406153719:s
If the pvc pies are a few inches behind the stand, you may need to put in a wood block or some such thing to shim the distance.

[Reef of Fillory]

Originally Posted by Reef of Fillory

Got the plumbing in, would like some advice on how to secure/support the piping?

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You answered without even knowing it, lol

I was going to use something like that, or some aluminum strapping nailed/screwed in to the back of the stand, just wasn't sure the best way to actually attach them due to the vertical/45 of the pipes? Support on the 45, or on the vertical stretch?

Also thought about taking a 2x4 and ripping it down to that gap size+the pvc, and then drilling spots with a hole saw, and using strapping on the outside edge of the 2x4 holes to hold on/in the pipes.